Question about 1989 Land Rover Range Rover

5 Answers

My 1996 Range Rover starts easily when engine is cold (though it runs a bit rough) - however if after driven till the engine is warmed up and you shut it off, the vehicle will not start until it cools back to cold - it just cranks - but no fire

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  • elwe77 Nov 27, 2008

    there does not seem to be any coolant loss which would indicate a leak in the head - nor do i notice white exhaust when starting/driving

  • elwe77 Nov 27, 2008

    I will try your solution of checking/verifying the coolant level in the radiator - thanx :)

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In order to troubleshoot a no-start problem, you need to start at the beginning of the line, the battery, and work your way back. Some tests for a no-start problem are simple, others are a pain in the neck and a technical nightmare. Nonetheless, you need to figure out why the car won't start, so we'll try to help.

  • Check Your Fuses: Few cars have a fuse associated with the starting system, but before you go monkeying around with everything, check your fuses to be sure it's not that simple.
  • Battery Corrosion: Over time your battery connections can become dirty, or corroded. This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with the rest of the car, and it won't start. Try cleaning your battery posts and try to start the car again.
  • Dead Battery: The most common reason your car won't start is a dead battery. If you have a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test your battery to see if it's weak. If you can't test it yourself, you can test the battery indirectly by jump-starting the car. If it starts right away, your problem is most likely a dead battery. Replace the battery, and clean the battery connections to ensure good contact.
  • Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not all the way to start). If the red warning lights on your dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not sure, turn on the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be ok. If not, the switch will need replacement.
  • Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only keep your battery from connecting, it can affect any electrical component, especially the ones exposed to the elements like the starter. If you have a helper, you can test the connection by holding a circuit tester lead on the wire that engages the starter. This is the smaller of the two wires connected to the starter. Be sure no part of your body is near the moving parts of the engine - it could still start at any time! Have a friend turn the key and check the current. If you're getting current to the starter but it ain't spinning, it needs replacement.
If your starter spins freely when you turn the key, the problem lies elsewhere. Now you begin to check the other systems that could keep it from firing up.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, would venture that it is heat related and electrical in nature. Might you want to check on the vehicles alarm/security/immobilizer system. This page may give you additional insights. Here is a wealth of information on RRs.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

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The idle air control valve requires cleaning
periodically or else the engine revs very high
on start up. The valve is located on the front
of the throttle body (looking into the engine bay
from the front) to the left of the throttle position
sensor. There are just a couple of Philips screws
holding it on. When it's off, I just wipe off the
cone end and clean the hole it covers.
When the revs are high on start up and it doesn't
idle back down I usually find that there is a
glob of oil/carbon or something preventing it
from closing the air bypass hole.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Nov 27, 2008

    Check the voltage at the
    distributor when the engine is cranking. It should be
    between 11 and 12 volts.

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Nov 27, 2008

    Do a fuel pressure test when
    you are having hard starting problems. You will probably
    find a faulty fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. If
    the fuel system checks okay, scan the computer for fault
    codes

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Nov 27, 2008

    The cap and rotor is
    probably not causing your problem. You must determine if
    your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or
    lack of spark. If fuel is the problem, check the fuel
    pump, pressure etc. If no spark, check the coil,
    distributor, 12 volts to the coil, etc

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Nov 27, 2008

    Try replacing the
    coolant temperature sensors and the
    fan control relay with new. Reassemble to recheck
    system.

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It seems like the radiator of your car needs attention. check for coolant level in it, when its cold. if les add some coolant and then see if the problem persists.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

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Have you check for any wate leakage it might be the main head valve which might have been damaged and it pulling the water inside the engine and thats why its shutting off the engine.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

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