Question about 2001 Buick LeSabre
The car in question is a 2002 Grand Prix GT with the 3800 engine but no supercharger. It has 95,000 kms. My wife was driving
down the highway and suddenly the car stalled. She was able to pull over but the car would not start again but did turn over.
After 10 miuntes of waiting she was able to restart the car and get it home but she said the car was not running right. I took it
out and it started fine and idled fine even when revving the engine the rpm rose accordingly. The car also drove normal at idle
speed. However when accelerating the car begins to hesitate and lope. If I push ******* the gas, the rpm's do not go beyond
2000rpm. If I let off the gas it will shift but rpm's do not go beyond 2000 in any gear. Once I push somewhat ******* the pedal
the engine begins to bog down as if the air fuel mixture is not right and there seems to be a resistance coming from the gas
pedal to push it further. If I play with the gas pedal just right I can get the car to lope rhythmically and I can hear a sound like ugh
ugh. The fastest I can get the car to go is 80km/hr but only on a long approach and the rpm not rising beyond 2000. Going
uphill is very slow.
I have removed the MAF sensor connector but performance was the same or worse especially when idling. There are no DTC
codes and the MIL is not lit. I have tested for codes with an OBDII code reader. Would a scan tool from a shop yield better
results as far as a sensor that may be bad but not bad enough to light the MIL? I used to own a Dodge Shadow and the MAP
sensor went every 6 months. It is acting similar to that issue but most of what I read is blaming the MAF, fuel pump, or the
catalytic converter. I would be interested to know what would suddenly go bad rather than something that would deteriorate
over time as the problem began suddenly.
In the past the car has been occasionally hard to start after a short 15 minute trip. The car will crank but not start. After a 10
minute wait the car always starts. A mechanic was thinking it might be security related.
I had a very similar problem, Mine just didn't quit running, it just lost power and wouldn't accelerate over 2500 rpms. Finally it died on the side of the road as the intake plenum had burned a hole on the drivers side just above the egr intake hose. I also replaced all the same parts that you spoke of. Mine was the Cat. Converter. I took off the egr valve and plugged the intake hole, started the car and it ran perfectly, and rpms went up over 2500 without any issues. I then cut the exhaust pipe behind the converter and drove a bar through the insides and it runs great. You can buy the entire converter and pipes assembled for $500-$600, or if you know a welder you can get just the converter at auto zone for $80.
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
I amswered it already.
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
Try this, I am not positive if this is the problem but there is no harm in trying.
the problem may be a buildup of carbon or fuel varnish deposits in the idle speed control valve (also called the idle air control valve or IAC valve). The cure for this condition is to clean the valve with some aerosol throttle cleaner or engine top cleaner. disconnect the air ductwork from the throttle body. Start the car and run at about 1500 rpms spray the cleaner directly into the throat of the throttle body. Turn off the engine and let sit for a few minutes. Then repeat the process a couple of times. if that does not work, you can remove the IAC and clean it by spraying into the two holes on the underside of the valve. If not, then you need to replace the valve.
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would also check your fuel pump. Can you hear the pump running in the back of the car when you turn the key to on? If you can't or the pump is not running smooth, then chances are that is your problem.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
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