C220 2001 new shape auto box kick down only works for about 2 miles after start from cold box works perfectly but car will not run over 3000 revs in any gear car has only done 50000 miles

sounds like crank sensor or cam shaft sensor. Internal resistance due to heat, hence why you can start and run car in morning, ie cold. When the heat build errors start. Get codes read first but I would suspect these 2 sensors. Yo can also get fault new parts, so you might be one the right track.

reg codes only work in UK, use real years..... so ROTW can tell.
please, tell what it does good and bad driving, idling , parked, moviing
hot and cold engine, full power from engine on hills.
stalling (it stalls) but when does it stall, under what conditions. hot or cold engine. only at stop lights hot. or>????
when an engine is cold the RPM is very high (iAC device) and it will not stall cold , if it does that is key.
if it never stalls hot. and runs perfect hot say so.
all these, clues build evidence. to what is wrong.
then we do tests.
PS: ever think to get that 60,000 mile (100km) tuneup>> now be it.

the automatic choke is working and thats why it does that because the car hasn't been cranked and its cold natured. this is normal for older cars and trucks with regular carbs.

rpm sensor bad this keeps the car from over tacking.

Run a fault code test as a starting point for diagnosis of this problem, learn how to do that here

First off, how new is your battery and how many miles on the D? Dodge vehicles are very sensitive to a failing battery. Have it load tested, and if is the least bit flaky, replace it.

After that, the TPS or throttle postion sensor is your next.

As far as the revving up and down above 3000 rpm goes, that is the PCM protecting the engine from over revving.

idle control valve is going bad also the MAF sensor may be clogged alumminum piece between air cleaner box and throttle body

Have exactly the same issue on 04 jag x type 2.5. So far have replaced fuel filter, air filter k&n, plugs ngk. Codes cleared, same issue. Seems to appear when air temp is cold and eng is warm.
Am replacing upstream O2 sensors and cleaning MAF next. Will keep you posted if it clears up. Did you ever find the cause?

If the engine is not over heating then it is doing its job. The constant cycling is based on the temp of the air traveling through the radiator and the a/c condenser not the outside temp so much. The start up high rev is just how these clutches work in ford fans. It sounds like it is operating correctly.

if this around town then this is probably right as it is also an auto.