I have a small oil leak from the beack of the engine close to the turbo or possibly on the back of turbo unit itself...??
any suggestions anyone and cures for the problem ??
thanks
SOURCE: VOLVO S40 2001 HEADLIGHT WIPER MOTORS
Behind Headlamp remove wiring clip and tape it off. At the same time tie off the water pipe. That'll do the job quickly. Otherwise removing the whole wiper system isn't a big job.
SOURCE: 2001 volvo s440 1.9t
Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors
Your cooling
system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors,
Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s)
and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function
primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either
through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's
electronic systems.
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded
valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant
flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to
normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common
first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other
conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to
eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion
tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It
serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined
pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap
with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for
short-term emergencies!
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling
air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump
pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch
allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and
"free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow
the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow
it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or
reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by
itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical
fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo
radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or
Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch
with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings
for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary
fan switch".
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge
sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3)
lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel
injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control).
Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
Temperature
control is critical to both performance and emission control.
Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot
without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with
computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery
automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor
signals.
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is
virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain".
Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally
(engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving.
Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or
mileage limits helps as well
SOURCE: volvo s40 diesl 01 won,t start
mine did this.lift the back seat and remove the fuel sender out the tank.youll see its full of gunk..
SOURCE: need diagram of timing belt and camshaft of VOLVO
My apologies for the delayed response. I am going back and answering questions that were never answered.
Click on the following Link. It has all the Diagrams for the Timing Belt you will need.
Before Clicking, let me know if this helped.
Again my sincerest apologies...
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2001/make/volvo/model/s40/2001_volvo_s40_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm
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I was told by a mechanic that oil is leaking from my cooler lines and into my turbo, however the mechanic didn't make it sound as if it was a big deal. But since then my car has been idleing really rough, and I can't accelerate the same as before and I get a horrible smell when I am driving at normal operating temp (like burning coolant or burning oil or both). Does anyone know how I can fix this problem?
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