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First check voltage on your battery with a multimeter a fully charged batt should be 12.6 bolts . Disconnect the battery from the car check voltage, second tyical voltage regulator maintain voltage between 13.5 and 15.5 . 15 when cold and 13 when hot. The regulator allows higher voltage to force electrons into you batt. If batt voltage is under12volts change batt. Is your regulator does not maintain 13 or above change alternator or alt regulator. Good luck
Think you have voltage regulation hassles. Assuming your connections are squeaky clean and have very low resistance, your charging voltage should be at least 14 volts. And when you turn on heavy drain accessories the voltage drop should be minimal. 13 volts is much too low.
u need to chek for batt volts at the pos pole on the bak of alt.should b batt voltage if not then wire from pos pole on back of alternator to battery could be broken,causing no output tobattery. wiggl voltage regulator wires while engine runs an check volts with a voltmeter to see if it jumps to over 13v wen wiggling connector.also chek fuses an fusible links for continuity.
Check voltage regulator. Also try to see if anything is possibly draining the batt while not running. Is the alternator charging at the right voltage? Do not remove terminal from batt to check alt. this can burn out a diode in the alt.
If you disconnect the battery for 20 min it should kill all memory and reset everything.If not you charge is still low charge up your batt. with a charger.and test your alt. output 13.9-13.7 you have to check the book.I'm not to sure on that.You might have a voltage regulator problem bad batt. Or somthing is hooked up wrong. Mabey the old alt was fine. Have the batt. tested. All alt. well most are rebuilts so you might have a bad one it happens.Make sure that it's putting out a charge. Loose alternator drive belt or loose or corroded battery cables. The battery itself may also be bad.
Sounds like you may need an alternator. If the batt is ok, could be the alt going out. A local pep boys or equivalent can check free or inexpensively... The voltage regulator is built in to the alternator... so if you change the alternator, you change the regulator too. k
Likely you did this already but check fuses in power distribution box near battery (likely two 60a fuses for alt in there). Additionally, was alternator regulator tested or was alt "full fielded" for test. (regulator failure will prevent power made at alt from reaching the battery). Also, check continuity of leads going to alternator to make sure they're OK.
14.6 means your voltage regulator or diode is suspect Despite having new alternator .Ive cross refrenced your smptoms in the haynes workshop manual and alternator is your only end answer.The haynes test is to start vehicle with multi meter connected across the battery terminals,increase the engine speed until the reading remains steady should be approximately 12 to 13v and no more than 14v.switch on as many accessories as possible(headlights heater blower radio etc)check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14v.If the regulated voltage is not as stated then alternator is to be repaired/replaced.Good luck with it and a happy new year.
Voltage regulator is built-in to the alternator assembly.
Have you tried replacing the battery?
A battery with a shorted cell will not charge properly and may even damage an alternator or regulator.
Note1: use a digital voltmeter (about $25 at Lowe's or Radio Shack) and
check voltage across batt terminals while engine running. If more than
12.6 Volts DC and more typically about 13 Volts, then the alternator is
Note2: from Jan 98 to May 98 shows a different part # alternator than June - Dec 98
check the manufacture date on your driver door edge.