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Re: 1994 explorer manual transmission install
It is a pain in the ****, the best thing to do is take a hammer and flatten out the body seam in the trans tunnel, it will go in then but its still kind of a pain, the best position for the trans is to go in kind of sideways and with the back angled up a little, hope this helps
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one might think to unbolt it from the truck .cooling lines and any wiring drive shafts ,transfer case bell housing, flywheel, torque converter ,and cross member with a transmission jack in place under it . suggest you buy a repair manual and read it before starting
read the FSM the factory service manual, it's 4 bucks read it please and ask
any questions not clear, it's all there.
on mine you cant, it's a real frame.. remove it with a plasma cutter?
but you never said what it held up?
the transmission has a cross member. that?
nor did you even say the JOB so we can know what you are ATTEMPTING. ???????
the front frame cross member is a frame, not a part.
it holds the lower suspension A arms . that?
place the car on a hoist .--- remove the tail shaft.-- support the rear of the engine .--- remove the inspection plate under bell housing--remove battery positive lead-- place a jack or other mobile support under the transmission-- undo the rear engine mount cross member.--- disconnect all wires and connections--If manual remove the gear lever and turret from inside the car or disconnect linkages to the box------ if auto remove the bolts holding the converter to the flex plate and push the converter back towards the gear box. use a piece of thin wire to hole it there by tying a bolt hole back to the bell housing inspection bolt hole. IF manual and auto ---remove the bell housing bolts and pull gear box straight back . watch for transmission oil coming out of the rear of the transmission. Installation is reverse process.
Drop the drive shaft, tranny cross member, transmission and bell housing. Remove the clutch pressure plate and disc and get new set. Use a pilot/clutch alignment tool in the crank shaft pilot bearing/bushing to center the disc and put the new pressure plate on and torque it down. Then put the bell housing, transmission, cross member, and drive shaft back in, and your done.
Using a 1/2-to-2-ton floor jack, lift the front of the truck and place jack stands under the frame. Once the truck is lifted enough for you to safely move around under it, begin removing the four bolts connecting the U-joint between the drive shaft and the rear axle. When you pull the drive shaft out of the tail shaft, transmission fluid will pour out of the tail shaft, so place a drip pan or oil-changing pan under the tail shaft of the transmission.
Lines And Linkage
If the truck is an automatic, you will need to remove two transmission lines from the passenger side of the transmission by the bell housing close to the transmission dip stick. If it's a manual transmission you won't have those lines, but you will have shifting linkage on the driver's side of the transmission. Depending on the year of the truck, the linkage is held on by either a cotter pin or locking-sleeve washer. You will also need to remove the speedometer cable. If it's an older truck, it will be a hard-cased cable similar to the emergency brake cable that threads onto the driver side of the transmission just before the bell housing. If the truck is a newer model, it will be an electrical set of wires attached to a plug on the tail shaft.
Remove From Engine
Remove the transmission mount bolt that holds the tail end of the transmission to the cross member on the frame. You will need to either use wood blocks or a jack to support the weight of the transmission. Take out the nine bolts on the bell housing that attach the transmission to the engine--there is one on the top center of the bell housing, two along each side of the bell housing and two on each side at the bottom next to the guide pins.
Remove From Vehicle
Once removed, maneuver the transmission to the rear of the truck about 6 inches until it clears either the clutch kit of a manual or the torque converter of an automatic. When the transmission is free, lower the bell housing end of the transmission down until the tail shaft is clear of the cross member.
Hi, you will need a jack, jack stand, wrench, ratchet set and pliers to complete this job successfully.
You have to start by raising the front and rear of your Saab using the jack and place it on jack stands. The entire Saab should be off the ground.
Then you continue by removing the shift linkage and throttle body from the transmission using the wrench and ratchet set. Use the pliers to loosen the nut securing the vacuum hoses on the transmission and remove the vacuum hose. Remove the speedometer cable using the pliers.
Slide the rear U-joint out of the rear end of the Saab's transmission as you remove it.
You then place the transmission jack under the transmission. Lift up on the transmission slightly to relieve weight. Disconnect the lower bell housing, torque converter bolts and bell housing bolts using the ratchet set and wrench.
You finally remove the transmission mount and cross-member bolts using the ratchet set. Lift the transmission using the jack to remove the cross member. Lower the transmission slowly while pulling it toward the back of the car.
Remove shift linkage or shifter, Remove drive shaft, remove cross-member and mount, disconnect any electrical wiring and speedo cable if so equipped, Remove all bell housing bolts and slide transmission out. Use a trans jack or if you have to, 2 people can pull it by hand. Just reverse removal steps to reinstall.