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The trim around your radio and switch is usually held on by pressed in clips, you can pop it off with a flat screw driver CAREFULLY, some times there will be screws that you can only see looking from the bottom up. Once you have that trim off you will see the screws that hold the switch assy in place, radios are mouted so many different ways I cant help ya there
Before removing the stereo or any other electrical component, it is vital that you first disconnect the grounding cable from the Neon's battery. The grounding cable connects the battery to the frame or chassis of the vehicle.
Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the grounding cable's camp from the negative battery lead. Make sure to rest the clamp away from the negative lead post until the removal is complete.
Remove the Dash Trim Panel
The dash trim panel that surrounds the Neon stereo needs to be removed to access the stereo. The panel contains, but is not connected to, the climate control knobs on the dashboard.
Grab the panel at the bottom corners and pry it from the dash. You will likely be able to remove the panel without the assistance of a trim pry tool, but if you are having difficulty removing the panel by hand, wrap a thin cloth around a trim panel removal tool or flat head screwdriver to remove the panel.
Once the lower edge of the panel is relieved from the panel, you can work your hands (or flat pry tool) around the perimeter to separate the remaining edges.
Since the panel is not connected to the climate control knobs, you will not need to disconnect the wiring to the knobs. The panel, once free, can be set aside until you replace the stereo.
Remove the Stereo
The Neon stereo deck is held into the stereo mounting bracket by 10 millimeter bolts on either side of the radio. Remove the bolts and store them in the ashtray for safe-keeping.
Pull the stereo from the dock. The unit will easily slide from the mounting bracket with an even pull from the left and right of the stereo. Pull the stereo far enough to reach the wiring on the rear of the radio.
The wiring to the stereo includes the antenna, the power supply and the speaker wires. There may also be patch cables connected if an amplifier is connected to your stereo system. Pull the cables from the stereo. The antenna and power supply are single cables. The speaker wires (and patch cables) will be grouped by wire binders. The plastic wire binders should be pulled as a unit. Do not pull the wires themselves.
Once the wiring has been disconnected from the stereo, the unit will be completely free from the Neon.
If you plan to operate the vehicle before installing a new stereo or re-installing the factory deck; reconnect the grounding cable to the negative battery lead. Otherwise, leave the cable away from the negative lead until all of your work is completed.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the Jeep Cherokee battery with the 10 mm wrench.
Remove the five screws on the top edge of the dash panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
Pry the trim panels surrounding the climate control knobs away from the dashboard with the trim panel removal tool.
Remove the trim panel that surrounds the headlamp switches
(located to the left of the steering column) with a trim panel removal
Remove the two screws behind the trim panel that surrounds the headlamp controls with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
Pull the dash panel that surrounds the stereo and covers the instrument panel of the Cherokee, away from the dashboard by hand.
Remove the two screws from the stereo mounting bracket. One
screw is on the bottom left corner, the other screw is on the top right
corner. Each screw can be removed with the 10 mm socket and drive.
Pull the factory stereo from the stereo mounting dock.
Disconnect the stereo wiring from the back of the factory unit.
Connect the Jeep Cherokee factory stereo wiring to a wiring
harness adapter. Connect the wiring harness adapter leads to an
aftermarket stereo. Slide the aftermarket stereo into the stereo
mounting bracket and replaced two screws at the opposite corners with
the 10 mm socket and drive.
Replace dash panel that stretches across the top of the steering column.
Replace the two screws at the top of the headlamp control switch. Replace the trim panel around the headlamp switch.
Replace the trim panel that surrounds the climate control knobs.
Replace the five screws on the top edge of the dashboard with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
Replace the negative battery cable over the negative battery
terminal and tighten the cable to the negative lead post with the 10 mm
Toyota Corolla has been around long enough that many owners find
themselves needing to replace the factory stereo. Installing a new
stereo in the Toyota Corolla gives improved sound and updated
features. Swapping out the stereo in the Toyota Corolla takes basic
tools and less than an hour. This article covers models from 1990 to
the hood and remove the negative battery cable from the terminal.
Apply the parking brake and place the car
> Remove the trim from
around the stereo by prying with your fingers at one corner. Some
early models have two screws at the top of the trim piece to remove
first. Allow the trim to hang on the drivers side of the dash if
it's connected to the cigarette lighter.
> Locate and remove the
four screws holding the stereo in place. Pull the radio out of the
dash and disconnect the wires from the back of the head unit.
> Connect the wiring
harness adaptor to the original harness and let it hang from the
dash. Slide the new stereo into the Toyota radio mounting kit, which
is a thin metal cover and secure it per the manufacturer's
instructions. Most adaptors have screws to hold the stereo in place,
however some have clips, which engage automatically. >Plug the wiring harness
adaptor and antenna wire into the back of the new head unit and push
the entire assembly into the dash. Reconnect the negative battery
cable and turn the radio on.
> Ensure all of the stereo
controls and speakers are working. Secure the radio in the dash with
the original four screws and replace the trim.
I have had this problem with my 04 Avalanche. It happened when I changed the battery. I replaced the climate control @ $475. When the battery went down another time, the same thing happened only in reverse (warm on the other side) I asked around and found that you can remove the dash trim pnl. and take out x2 screws that hold the controller in place, unplug it for 1 or 2 minuets and reattach. this will "reboot" the controller. I had to preform this procedure 2 times but it fixed the issue @ $0 and is simple. Has worked fine since.
I have a 04 jeep liberty my self and I put in my own stereo. First you
take the screw out under the climate controls. Then it's just a matter
of slowly but with pressure pulling the (in my case) chrome trim off
around the climate control, stereo and empty space where your screw is
located. Then the stereo mounted in presently will have a screw at each
of the four corners; remove those while holding the stereo in place.
Then just un hook your antenna and you're wiring harness from the back
and repeat process for the new head unit. For the new wiring harness
there may be some wires that need splicing and reconnecting to your new
I solved this issue by using a miniature ~6" Teflon coated crowbar/nail puller, and pried around the edge of the trim until the "catches", which held the trim in place slowly released. At that point I was able to pull the trim off.
You have to remove the trim panel around the stereo/climate control to expose the screws that hold it in place. Once you do that, and the screws are removed, it pulls straight out and unplugs. No need to disconnect the battery and no tricks to it once it slides out.