Question about 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

97 f 150 runs hot for minutes then runs ok

Bad fan clutch replaced...new t-stat...coolant mix correct and full.as engine warms heater producing heat.temp gauge reaches norm.heater then gets cold.suddenly temp gauge pins max.upper hose is not warm and can be squized easly...just as suddenly the gauge returns to norm-i get heat again and the upper hose is now warm and hard and truck runs well.weep hole on water pump is dry also no noise

Posted by on

  • 7 more comments 
  • desireebaine Nov 25, 2008

    removed motorcraft 195...installed stant 195. put original in boiling water and it opened up about half an inch

  • desireebaine Nov 26, 2008

    hey buddy ...4.6 281ci not aware of air bleed screw in system.i was thinking along the same lines and thought head gasget but exhaust dosn't smell.i love the old days when you could actually open a cap and add coolant direcly into the radiator....thats progress i guess.

  • desireebaine Nov 27, 2008

    new t- stat today ,put into boiling h2o before install.fill engine block slowly,I think air burp is in upper hose so I disconnect upper hose from rad and raise it higher than t-stat andfill it.then fill recovery tank till it starts to flow from rad neck.connect hose -fill res same problem

  • desireebaine Nov 27, 2008

    i cleaned the garage floor, i was so confident i fixed it but noooo.is there a method of filling this system i'm missing?also when cap is off and recovery tank is almost spilling over,i rev engine andcoolant level drops acordingly.water pump seems exeptionaly strong and working well.

  • desireebaine Nov 27, 2008

    in your opinion do you think a ford dealer,(given all the details)could achive what i cannot?at this point 2 hours or less labor,starts to look good . i'm still thinking too.happy thanksgiving to you and yours.

  • desireebaine Nov 28, 2008

    check engine light on now .owners manual says not to drive because i'll sustain engine damage.

  • RAYPHILLIPS1 Jan 07, 2009

    my 97 ford f150 the heater works good at tmes and then it gets cool but not compelty cold i change the therostat and the same thing happens i took it to greene ford in gainesville and they said the heater box has hole in it behind radio so i pulled the radio and looked with flash light and can not find a hole no were and the wanted to charge 1,100 dollars to change the heater box and heater core and i dont have the money and i think it is something else because if that was the case i would have no heat i also blowed the core out but that didnt help so i dont know what to try next anybody can help please let me know my e mail is rayphillips1768@bellsouth.net thanks

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    i have a 1990 f150 with a 5.0 and the temp gauge moves from cold to hot and my heater works at random points

  • Anonymous Mar 28, 2014

    have a Nissan Titan running warm even at idle upper hose hot lower hose hot

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Ford Master
  • 1,779 Answers

It could be a faulty thermostat. Did it do the same thing before u replaced the t-stat? It sounds like it's sticking closed, then all of a sudden it opens, coolant flows correctly. I'd consider changing it again. Check to make sure parts store is giving u the correct temperature thermostat also. Maybe it's too high for your Ford, delaying the opening.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Curt Downs Nov 26, 2008

    what engine does your ford have? I'm wondering if it has an air bleed screw. If there was air in the system, it could explain what u describe.

  • Curt Downs Nov 27, 2008

    I'm sitting here going over this again and again, and it has me stumped (and it's driving me crazy). The faulty t-stat was the perfect answer until u replaced it not once, but twice. I had an 88 cherokee that had a very similar problem, but I'm quite sure it was air in the system. Problem occurred whenever I had to drain the system. It would run REAL hot, and after it cooled down and the same problem repeated several times, everything was ok. I can't believe I didn't ruin a head gasket due to the temp being so high. Had this problem every time I had to drain the cooling system. I ended up getting rid of it w/ 260k on it, still running good! Go figure! Appreciate the updates, I'll keep on thinking about what other possibilities there are, let u know if I come up w/ anything.Curt


  • Curt Downs Nov 28, 2008

    After all you've done, I agree, a couple hours labor to fix it sounds real good. But before you do that, contact emmission wiz here. He's a sharp guy, knows his stuff. He may see something we're missing. Keep me posted. The dealer is scary though, they may want to replace everything u did again.

  • Curt Downs Nov 29, 2008

    Maybe this is good news? U can check for codes, maybe we can finally find out what's wrong. Do u have or know someone that will loan u a scan tool? Most auto parts stores will scan for codes for free, but of course you'll have to drive it there. Let me know

×

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Vauxhall astra 1.7 td heater not getting hot


Assuming the fan works ok, it sounds like the cable from hand control to heater valve has come off or needs adjusting or replacing. Or (less likely) there is a problem with the mechanical valve. The valve needs to open to allow hot water to flow through to the mini radiator (heater radiator) and then both coolant pipes and mini radiator get hot with a warm engine. Try moving the valve lever by hand (somewhere above the clutch pedal).and If you start getting heat with the fan on the fault is the cable..

Nov 25, 2013 | Vauxhall Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When engine turned on my heater does not work why is that and how can i fix it.


ok Btad
does the fan run at full speed on high, sure it does, i bet.
the heater only works on a hot engine.
180F min. and holding. some go to 200F (on newer cars)
so does it? get fully hot, and NORMAL.
the heater uses ,engine coolant to steal its wasted heat.

if not?
1: bad or missing engine coolant thermostat.
2: RAD fans stuck on, or is just too cold.\
3: no location stated. and we do get posts from the yes, north pool. or up in high Canadian provinces??? or Norway?
up in alaska we keep some engines running full time (no heated garage)
and all have rad blocked 1/2 way with cardboard.
and some we spray the whole engine with foam to keep it warm.
so not stating location (not one ever in 4000 posts) we cant answer you.

what do we do, well, I point the IR PYRO gun that the thermostat
housing, (need photo?) and see 10 less that stat rating.
if 180 i see 170 if 200 i see 190.
see?

this is the www, and we get posts from all over planet earth.

Nov 24, 2013 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

93 GMC Safari overheating. This happened spontaneously. Runs hot very quickly when I drive it. There is antifreeze in both radiator and overflow res, overflow res fills up more after driving a bit. ...


It would appear your thermostat is stuck in the closed position , find where it is on your engine, drain coolant and remove thermostat housing and stat, replace housing(liquid gasket OK) and coolant. now run engine, turn heater controls to hot leaving filler cap off, top up any water to max and replace cap now warm up to temp until fan comes on. if all ok replace thermostat with a new one and new gasket, you could also flush the sytem out at the same time with a hose pipe by loosening one of coolent pipes and flush radiator.

Nov 04, 2013 | 1993 GMC Safari

1 Answer

Car running hot


check your water. if it is winter and you running your heat, then it could be your heater core. a sure sign is a wet passenger floorboard.

also check your radiator hoses. both should be hot. if one is not hot, then you have no coolant flow.

check your oil. milky, dirty white oil is a sign of a blown head/headgasket. water mixes with oil and it makes a distinct color.

if all that checks out, then check your fans. FOR ELECTRIC FANS ONLY: let the car warm up, start getting to a normal temperature (may have to drive it), and then stop and pop the hood. if you do not see a fan moving, then you have a bad relay (common) or a bad fan motor (not so common).

FOR CLUTCH FANS: there is no real way to test them. if all the steps before have turned out to be ok and normal, then you need your clutch on your fan replaced. most of them are on bigger v8s and RWD cars.

Jan 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2006 chevy colorado 5 cylinder and im having a problem with my engine temp. Last year i changed my t-stat. and ever sincve they replaced it, the engine temp keeps fluctuating. So recently i had...


The temperature you see on the dash board gauge is not necessarily the actual temperature of the coolant. The engine has a 'coolant sensor' which sends information to the electronic control unit (ECU /PCM) and there is a separate 'sender' which governs the gauge reading you see on the dash board. The sender usually has just one wire connected to the top of it. The sender is basically a heat dependent resistor and the temperature gauge simply reads this resistance. Sometimes corrosion in the electrical connector can inhibit the correct readings, so first disconnect the sender and inspect/clean the pin with a little wire wool. Now check the coolant. First put the interior heater on maximum heat. Run the engine up to working temperature and then squeeze all rubber hoses to help shift any trapped air. Top up the coolant if the level drops when air pockets have been shifted. The following sequence should occur when the engine is warming up. 1) When cold the engine has higher then normal revs. This is due to the coolant sensor (not sender) telling the ECU that the engine is cold and that the injectors should add more fuel to compensate for the cold condition of the engine. 2) Within about a minute the idle revs begin to drop as the coolant sensor detects the engine warming up 3) After about 5 minutes the thermostat should open. You can detect yourself this by feeling the top rubber radiator hose getting hot. 4) If you have an electric cooling fan on the radiator this should switch on about now. If you have a fan driven by a viscous clutch this will engage a little later. 5) after about 2 more minutes the face of the radiator should be becoming hot and the bottom rubber radiator return hose should become warm, then hot.
If you have an electric fan and it fails to come on then check the electric relay and fuse for it. Viscous clutch fans should always show some resistance when turned over by hand when the engine is off, if it spins freely then the clutch coupling is faulty and it will need to be replaced. A sign of faulty fan related over-heating is a car than runs at normal temperature when cruising on the freeway but overheats when standing at the lights; fan engagement is to compensate for the lack of air flow across the radiator core when the vehicle is stationary.
I hope the above helps

Jun 18, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet Colorado

1 Answer

Issue with coolant system: Issue began after I had radiator shop in Sonora Ca. flush out system and replace thermostats as normal maint. and they put the t stats in wrong holes. I only noticed after they...


AFTER REPLACING THERMOSTAT DONT STOP OVERHEATING.CHECK THE COOLANT FAN CLUTCH.WITH HOT ENGINE THE CLUTCH FAN SHOULD HAVE RESISTANCE WHEN TURNING IT WITH HAND.IF NOT FREEWHEEL.FAULTY CLUTCH FAN.HAVE TO REPLACE CLUTCH ON FAN.BAD CLUTCH ON COOLING FAN WILL CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEAT.WHEN CLUTCH FAN FREEWHEELS AT HIGH SPEEDS NOT PULLING ENOUGH AIR THROUGH RADIATOR CORES TO COOL DOWN ANTIFREEZE AND ENGINE.

Feb 16, 2011 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

1 Answer

My jeep is not getting warm. The temp gauge is not even getting to the middle temp where it is supposed to be. The heat doesn't blow warm from the vents even on high and all the way hot.


Two reasons that the temp won't come up...Most common is that your thermostat is stuck open. There are tests to check that but the stat is inexpensive and relatively easy to replace. Use a 195 degree (f) and make sure that you put the new one in the same way the old one came out (spring end into the engine) make sure all gasket material has been removed or it will leak and use 50/50 mix of coolant to replace any lost while working. (system does not need to be drained to do that job but you will loose some) re-fill with heater on full heat, engine running.
The other possibility is that your electric fan is always on. If the fan is running with the engine cold, replace the relay (usually found behind and below R/F headlight, accessible from under vehicle with a little work.)

Dec 13, 2010 | 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

V6 camry engine overheating what are possible causes


Make sure the reservoir coolant tank is at 'full'. Start the car from cold and observe. After a couple of minutes when the engine has begun to drop in revs ( the coolant temperature sensor should tell the ECU to begin to shorten the injection cycle as the engine warms) the top of the engine and the coolant passage to the thermostat housing should become warm to the touch. When hot the top rubber hose to the radiator should become warm and then hot as coolant begins to circulate. If the top hose fails to get hot at any time then the thermostat is at fault. If you have electrically driven radiator fans these should now come on. If they fail to come an at all you need to check the coolant temperature sensor, the electrical motor fuses and the motor relay. Lastly check the motor itself (just run a 12v supply to it directly). As the ar continues to idle, with the fans running, the bottom return hose from the radiator to engine should also become warm. If the bottom hose fails to become warm this points to circulation problems. Either the radiator had become clogged with rust sludge and needs an extensive flushing out with a high pressure hose or the pump is not functioning as it should. Quickly check that the interior heater works by asking for 'full heat with fan on full'. If the interior heater works this indicates that the main coolant pump is probably OK. To check the thermostat more thoroughly, remove it from the car and drop it in a pan of near boiling water; the 'stat should pop open. As the pan cools, at 88 degree centigrade or so, the 'stat should pop closed. Failure to observe this tells you the 'stat is a dead and needs to be renewed.

Sep 02, 2010 | 1999 Toyota Camry

4 Answers

1991 honda accord is overheating. Installed new radiator because of leak and the car started overheating because of cracked heater hose. Installed new hose and still overheating. Bottom radiator hose is...


When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.

===

Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.

===

MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!

RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!

You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!

===

Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.

If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost

===

A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

===
Please post more information by clicking the comment link on the top right corner.

DON'T FORGET to RATE ME if my tip is helpful to you!

Oct 17, 2009 | 1991 Honda Accord

3 Answers

Overheating , heater not working


When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.

===

Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.

===

MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!

RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!

You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!

===

Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.

If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost

===

A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

===
Please post more information by clicking the comment link on the top right corner.

DON'T FORGET to RATE ME if my tip is helpful to you!

Oct 10, 2009 | 1996 Land Rover Discovery

Not finding what you are looking for?
1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab Logo

476 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

60667 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

21936 Answers

Fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5331 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...