Hi: If you are still having the same problem with squeeking clutch, maybe my solution will work for you also. It was driving me crazy. I took it to a Honda dealer and they had a man who would take it apart and fix it. It sounded like it would be pretty expensive.
I went to an auto parts store and bought a can of WD40 with a really long straw for $6.00. I took a flashlight and pushed the straw up into the hole where the clutch came out and sprayed and sprayed, let it sit overnight and sprayed again. That took care of it and so far it hasn't happened again. If it does, I still have my WD40. Glenna
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the brake fluid has drain out of clutch master cylinder fill with brake fluid reservoir is next to the brake master cylinder. pump pedal if spongy then bleed system with a 2 ounce syringe at slave cylinder loosen screw and force fluid to the master this will push all the air out.
Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).
I had this same problem the cable is fine its a clip on outer cable to stop it mooving when you press clutch mine poped when I tightened the clutch cable still don't have solution though waiting to payday to take it to garage
Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm.
Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder.
My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it.
There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.
Take off the master cyl. cap....make sure there's only about 1/2 in the reservoir.....as you will be pushing fluid back into it! Take a large screwdriver and pry back both pads into the caliper, until the puck is all the way in.
Take out the retaining pins and pull out the old pads. Put some anti-squeek on the backs of the new ones, and put them in....reverse the proceedure. you did to get them out..... Only do one side at a time. Make sure you pump the pedal back up before you drive away! No bleeding involved. Have fun!
i have just replaced an 03 civic ex clutch and transmission bearings due to a customer being too harsh on it. It sounds like its got a little life left in it if you are easy on it.
if there is adjustment in this model use the below walkthrough to adjust it.
adjust the clutch pedal,
1. if you look up on the top of the clutch pedal, the first thing you should see if a clutch pedal position switch, and right behind it there is a locknut, looens the locknut. once you loosen it, back off on the pedal position switch or adjusting bolt untill it no longer touches the clutch pedal.
2. now behind the clutch pedal, there is a pushrod. and on that pushrod, there is a locknut, loosen that locknut. Now turn the pushrod in or out to get the desired height and stroke at the clutch pedal.
The freeplay is the amount of push on the clutch pedal to where is starts to have resistance from the top. I have usually been told it should be set at 1 1/2-2 inches of freeplay.
Once you set it, tighten the locknut on the pushrod. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal position switch untill it contacts the clutch pedal. then turn it an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. And tighten the locknut.
Now on top of the clutch pedal switch, there is a clutch interlock switch. Loosen the locknut on that switch. then press the clutch pedal to the floor.
release the clutch pedal 15-20 mm (0.59-0.79 in) from the fully pressed position, and hold it there. adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. then tighten the locknut on that switch.