Front left brake binds after about 5 miles the noise sounds like a lorry brake drum when it needs the dust blowing out , almost like a mountain horn not realy a squeel, i have replaced the front rotors & the left brake hose & pads on both sides but the noise remains, the wheel seems to spin smooth with no sign of a worn bearing& no sign of any play that you can feel either up&down or side to side or in &out the bearing seems fine, the noise stops when breaking hard but then remains untill i stop & leave it for 5 mins or so ps the noise increases to more of a banging at speeds of 50 mph but the car stops in a straight line with no vibration & no judder through the steering wheel or pedal or floor pan
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Almost everything including what I am going to suggest should change noise by speed. The rear emergency brake liners come off the metal and get ground to dust. Centrifugal force will pin the dust to the inside of the inner rotor/drum. Then when speed drops it falls and makes noise again.
Sometimes exhaust shielding can flap and make a scrapping sound. Check your catalytic covers and various heat shields and exhaust joints. Also some drive-trains had balance weights on the exhaust system. Many muffler shops remove them when changing exhaust parts.
it sounds like you brakes are bad or going bad, block front wheels so they cant move!!!! jack up the back of the crv till tires are 1" to 2" off the ground, put shifter in N stop and spinn back wheels by hand lision for the noise, it is probably the brake squeaker on the brake pad and needs to be replaced
Hello tgiro7: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. The fact the noise goes away when stepping on the brake pedal says the problem most likely is in the brake area. The pads could be worn out even at 20,000 miles.If the noise sounds like it comes from the front remove the wheels and check the front pads. If the pads are bad most likely the rotors are also bad.Same would apply if the noise emits from the rear. When you have the wheels off check to make sure the calipers will slide in and out on the mount pins. Should they be stuck on binding the pads will wear excessively and prematurely fail. The calipers must move freely on the pins. If you drive with your left foot on the brake pedal? The amount of pressure required to apply the brakes and not stop the vehicle is 1 to 2 pounds of pressure. Wont turn on the brake lights but will put pressure on the calipers. This in turn will wear out the brake pads. Another thing to look at would be an out of adjustment brake switch. Reach down and grab hold of the brake pedal. Give a firm tug on the pedal. Should you feel the pedal give and hear a click or two the switch was set to deep and holding the brakes on.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
sounds like the handbrake had stuck on. the brake shoes can bind if the handbrake is left on and this is probably the clunk noise. you are almost certainly right about the "cleaning themselves" if you look at the disk surface after a few weeks parked up you will probably see it is a little "rusty" .
if you are leaving a car for more than a week or so, you should release the handbrake first. either leave it in park as this will lock the gearbox rather than the wheels, or chock the wheels. that way the pads will not bind to the disks/drums. you may still have the grinding noise as the light rust on the surface is removed.
Brake pads are worn. That noise is the sound of the backing plate for the brake pads hitting the rotors. You will need to replace the pads and probablt the rotors. When the brakes go metal to metal like that it typically destroys the rotor.
Even though you had the brake pads replaced, and since the sound you describe is a "rubbing" sound, I would suspect that the brake caliper piston is sticking and causing brake drag. The only way to check is to pull the wheel and check the caliper. If it is sticking, it will wear the pad out quickly and wll generate heat. After driving, check for excessive heat coming from the wheel. It could be a wheel bearing, but I would check out the brake caliper first. Sure hope this helped. Good luck.
It may be caused by Disc Thickness Variation, which occurs when the pads brush the sides of an out of alignment rotor. Also, it could be that the rotors need to be resurfaced due to poor surface finish. I have also seen that when the brakes drag on the pads (DTV) that any pad dust will collect in the low spots and squeal after braking. I would recommend dropping the calipers and thoroughly cleaning the rotors and pads off with warm soapy water and a rag. I don't recommend brake cleaner or silencing sprays because they just add un-needed material to a contact surface and can actually cause noise and prevent full pad contact.
See HERE for troubleshooting information from English Brake Corp.
See HERE for Tech Questions answered from Bendix Corp.
I can also suggest checking the hub face with a roller-tipped dial indicator gauge to confirm that it doesn't have any lateral run-out. Run-out of over .002" would be out of spec.