85 ford bronco,has no electrical response,no lights nogthing.
The vehicle has been sitting for a long time now we add a new battery, clean connections add new starter soleniod. ther's no electric response, gauges don't move, vehicle will not start, no sound nothing. Whats wrong and how could it be just dead no action or an re-action?
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Re: 85 ford bronco,has no electrical response,no lights...
Check on your ignition switch and its harness,make sure you have a contact. and re check those connections youve mentoned. Be sure your negative groundings going to the engine and the body are tight and cleaned.
It will really be a long night to trace all those weak connections. trace the positive connection from your battery going to your starters and going to your alternators.
And be sure that all fuse and relays are working.
Hope i have fix your problem.
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If the heat shield is between the exhaust and starter its there for a reason and will help protect the starter from excessive heat. If the heat shield doesn't protect anything else like wiring and plugs ect. it wont make much difference short term but my experience is usually that manufacturers put things like that on for a reason and its best to put back when possible.
FROM WHAT YOU HAVE DESCRIBBED .IT SOUNDS LIKE THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT IS INCOMPLETE .IF YOUR LIGHTS DOES NOT COME ON AND NO ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS ARE NOT WORKING AND IT IS A NEW BATTERY. CHECK YOUR GROUND WIRE FOR LOOSE OR CORRODED CONNECTIONS .ENSURE THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED .THEN CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS FOR TIGHTNESS AND CORROSION .IF YOUR STARTER WAS AT FAULT IT WOULD NOT PREVENT THE OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS FROM WORKING .
Sounds like a weak connection somewhere close to the battery. The alternator should be able to keep up with the extra electrical load not to mention the storage capacity of the battery. So if the headlights are killing power to the key switch, something is weak between the battery and the key. Could be a corroded cable, connection at the solenoid, or in the fuse box.
You need to check your alternator circuits. If the alternator itself tests good (I am assuming it was removed from the vehicle and taken to a parts store for testing) then the only thing left are the alternator circuits themselves. The large BLACK/ORANGE wire needs to have direct connection to the battery. This connection needs to be clean and tight with little or no resistance....This needs to be checked with an ohm-meter to verify. The rest of the circuits depend on what your vehicle is equipped with. 1993 Ford Broncos were originally equipped with two different charging systems. One had an integral regulator (regulator built into the alternator) and an external regulator. (voltage regulator mounted on the fender, separate from the alternator.) If you have the external regulator, that is what I would suspect as the cause of your problem. If you have the internal regulator, then I would check for battery voltage on the two BLACK/ORANGE wires and the YELLOW/WHITE wire at all times, and the LIGHT GREEN/RED wire should have battery voltage only with the key in the ON position.
Emission standards are so low these days that its almost impossible depending which state you are in to get this vehicle to pass. For this vehicle to pass the engine itself have to be in tip top shape and the computer must function properly. I've had a problem like this with a 85 Toyota land cruiser and I have change all those things you change except the timing chain, IAC and MAP and the problem was the computer got a manufactured one and BINGO it passed emission test here in NY. Two choices try the computer or let it sit for a few more years then it becomes a classic after 25 yrs and it doesn't need emissions NO more just safety, like brake lights seat belts etc. Good Luck and thanks for using FIX YA