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Re: replacement bolts for ford e-350 5.8 litre van
The best place to go would most likely be your local for dealership's parts and service dept. Granted, most auto parts stores tend to stock these bolts, but from time to time, I've found that they're not an exace match for the original factory equipment. You can usually rest assured that when you go to the dealership, you'll probably be getting bolts that came out of the same batch that was used to build these vehicles at the factor, ending the worry of wrong-sized bolts and cheap steel. Not only that, we're talking about a few bolts, so you shouldn't have to worry about it costing very much. Hope this proves to be useful and have a great night!
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There are a lot of steps, and you need to take your time. You will need access to a lift or jack stand, and make sure you keep the work area clean and organised, taking photos of the timing system will make your life easier when it comes to re-timing the engine.
Camshaft Timing Chain, Sprocket, and Tensioner Replacement Removal ProcedureCaution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices. Notice: The timing chain on the LD9 (VIN T) Twin Cam Engine is not to be replaced with the timing chain from any other model year. The timing sprockets are different on the Twin Cam engine and the shape of the links matches the sprockets. Engine damage may result if the wrong timing chain is used. The timing chain and the crankshaft sprocket must be marked so that they are reinstalled in the same side facing out at the time of reassembly.
Ensure that all of the slack in the timing chain is above the tensioner assembly.
Remove the timing chain tensioner bolts and the tensioner.
Remove the tensioner shoe. Use a small locking ring plier in order to engage the hole in the locking tab and remove the shoe from the stud.
Notice: Do not attempt to pry the sprocket off the camshaft or damage to the sprocket or chain housing could occur. Important: Mark the timing chain and the crankshaft sprocket prior to removal. If the chain or the crankshaft sprocket is installed with the wear pattern in the opposite direction, noise and increased wear may occur.
Mark the crankshaft sprocket and the timing chain outer surface.
Remove the timing chain.
Lower the vehicle.
Holding the intake camshaft sprocket with J 39579, remove the sprocket bolt and washer.
Remove the washer from the bolt and rethread the bolt back into the camshaft.
Using a 3-jaw puller and the relief holes in the sprocket, remove the intake camshaft sprocket.
Repeat this procedure for the exhaust camshaft sprocket.
Clean the old sealant from the bolt with a wire brush.
Clean the threaded hole in the camshaft with a round nylon bristle brush.
Inspect the parts for wear. Replace the parts as necessary.Some scoring of the timing chain shoe and the guides is normal.
Replace the timing chain shoe or guides if the scoring exceeds 1.12?mm (45?in).
Use Adhesive/Sealant Compound GM?P/N?12345493 or equivalent on the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Install the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts with the marked surface showing.Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
Install the retaining bolts and washers to the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets.
Tighten the bolts to 70?Y (52?lb?ft) while holding the sprockets with the J 39579.
Install the J 36800 through the holes in the camshaft sprockets into the holes in the timing chain housing. This will position the camshaft for correct timing.
If the camshafts are out of position (you must rotate the camshaft more than 1/8?turn in order to install the alignment dowel pins), use the following procedure:
Rotate the crankshaft 90?degrees clockwise off of the TDC in order to give the valves adequate clearance to open.
Once the camshafts are in position and the dowels installed, rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise back to the top dead center.
Notice: Do not rotate the crankshaft clockwise to TDC. Valve or piston damage could occur. Important: The side of the timing chain that was marked during removal must be showing when the chain is installed.
Install the timing chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, around the coolant pump, and around the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove the alignment dowel pin from the intake camshaft.
Using the J 39579, rotate the intake camshaft sprocket counterclockwise enough in order to slide the timing chain over the intake camshaft sprocket.
Release the J 39579. The length of the chain between the 2?camshaft sprockets will tighten.
If properly timed the intake camshaft alignment dowel pin should slide in easily. If the dowel pin does not fully index, the camshafts are not timed correctly and the procedure must be repeated.
The timing marks on the crankshaft and on the cylinder block should be aligned when the slack is removed from the chain linking the intake camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket. If the marks are not aligned, move the chain one tooth forward or rearward, remove the slack and re-examine the marks.
Important: Use the following steps in order to reset the timing chain tensioner assembly to the zero position.
Reset the timing chain tensioner assembly.
Insert the tensioner plunger assembly into the tensioner housing.
With the tensioner plunger fully extended, turn the complete assembly upside down on a bench or other flat surface.
With the plunger face against the workbench, press firmly on the bottom of the tensioner housing.
Compress the plunger until the plunger is seated flush in the tensioner.
Check the plunger to make sure the plunger is out of the cylinder at the correct dimension. The correct dimension for the plunger to extend out of the cylinder is 1.7?mm (0.07?in) maximum.
Loosely install the tensioner assembly and bolts to the timing chain housing.
Install the timing chain tensioner shoe on the stud.
Apply hand pressure to the timing chain tensioner shoe until the locking tab seats in the groove in the stud.
Tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts. Do Not overtighten. Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10?Y (89?lb?in).
Important: If the timing chain tensioner is not released from the installation position, engine damage will occur when the engine is started.
Release the timing chain tensioner plunger.
Using a flat blade screwdriver, cotter pin remover, or similar tool, press firmly against the face of the timing chain tensioner plunger.
Important: If the timing chain tensioner cannot be depressed, the plunger is not properly reset and the procedure for resetting the timing chain tensioner should be repeated.
Depress the timing chain tensioner plunger until the plunger is bottomed out in the bore of the timing chain tensioner.
Release the tensioner plunger. the plunger should press firmly against the back of the timing chain tensioner shoe.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 2?full rotations. Align the crankshaft keyway with the mark on the cylinder block, and reinstall the alignment dowel pins. The pins should slide in easily if the engine is timed correctly.
the oil pump is on the crank behind the balancer and timing chain cover:
1. Remove the timing chain. 2. Remove the oil pan. 3. Remove the three (A) oil pump screen and cover bolts and the (B) oil pump screen and cover. 4. Remove the two oil pump bolts and the oil pump.
1. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces. 2. Install the oil pump and loosely install the two oil pump bolts. 3. Install the oil pump screen and cover and install the three oil pump screen and cover bolts. 4. Install the timing chains. 5. Install the oil pan.
TO REPLACE WATER PUMP.REMOVE THE RADIATOR SHROUD HALVES.REMOVE FAN CLUTCH AND FAN.YOU NEED FAN CLUTCH WRENCH AND A FAN CLUTCH PULLEY HOLDER.YOU CAN RENT TOOLS AT AUTO ZONE OR BUY THEM AT A AUTO PARTS STORE.THE FAN CLUTCH BOLTS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD. REMOVE THEM BY TURNING CLOCKWISE.BEFORE INSTALLING NEW WATER PUMP COAT BOTH SIDES OF WATER PUMP GASKET WITH GASKET SEALER.TORQUE WATER PUMP BOLTS 18 FT LBS.
Water pump is driven by timing chain idler and is mounted on the rear of the timing chain housing. Disconnect the neg. battery cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect oxygen sensor connector.
Remove upper exhaust manifould heat sheild. Remove exhaust manifold brace. Remove lower exhaust manifold heat sheild. Loosen manifold to exhaust manifold spring loaded nuts. Remove radiator outlet pipe to water pump coverbolts. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Pull down on the exhaust pipe to disconnect it from exhaust manifold bolts. Disconnect outlet pipe from oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with manual tranaxle, remove exhaust maifold brace. Leave lower radiator hose attached and pull down on radiator out look pipe to disengauge from water pump. Leave outlet pipe hanging.
Lower vehicle. Remove exhaustmanifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove exhaust manifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove manifould. Remove timing chain front cover. Remove timing chain tensioner. Remove bolts bolts securing water pump cover to cylinder block. Remove water pump to timing chain housing nuts. Remove water pump attaching nuts. Remove water pump and cover assembly. Separate componets as necessary.
WHEN INSTALLING WATER PUMP MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCES THAT AFFECT SEALING. My frist one I messed up and broke the pump so becarful.
If cover was separated from body during removal, join this componets with a new gasket and hand tighten bolts. Apply bearing grease to splines of water pump drive. Set body and assemble into position.
Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Installand hand tighten nuts securing body to timing chain housing. Lubracate outlet pipe "O" ring with antifreeze. (I use RTV) Connect outlet pipe. Install and hand tighten bolts. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification in the following sequence. I'll ad the torque spec. at the end but this is where if you tighten out of order something will break.
pump assembly to timing chain housing nuts.
pump cover to pump body bolts
pump cover to cylinder block bolts (Bottom Bolt First)
outlet pipe to cover bolts
To complete installation reverse removel procedure.
Torque specs are 19 in. or 26mm all except water pump cover bolts which are 124 in or 14Nm
I never torque the bolts just make sure there done in the right order.
Remove the water pump and harmonic balancer (use a balancer Puller). Remove the remaining bolts from the timing cover and the front four bolts from the oil pan. Remove the timing cover. Clean the old gasket from the block and cover . Reassemble. You may want to replace the pump as a maintainance item while it is removed.
This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.
Here is procedure for 1996:
Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.
If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.
19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
Remove the timing chain/belt.
Installation NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.
CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt. NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.
NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).
Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.
While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.
While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt
Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).
Unfortunately, I've had this exact same issue with my F-150 5.0L... The pump bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block. However, if you're lucky, once you finally do get the timing cover off(which will have to be removed at this point), you might have enough bolt hanging out of the block to get a grip on and possibly back the rest of the way out. There is a penetrating spray on the market called PB Blaster that is the very best at freeing up seized bolts. Spray it down really good and give it a day or so to penetrate. Not too sure of what size of easy-out you'd need, but I ended up having to drill mine out and putting in helo-coils. It's a real pain, but aside from junking the block, it's about the only option available. One more thing...if you do get all of your bolts out, before trying to put them back in, make sure to take an air compressor and blow out all of the bolt holes as they tend to get a lot of corrosion inside that will, 99% of the time, cause even more snapped bolts when trying to reinstall your new water pump, as this is what happened to me. Hope this helps and from one guy who's had to deal with this headache to another getting ready to...good luck, and no matter what you might begin to think, a gallon of gas and a match are not a better way of dealing with it, though it will sound tempting. Try to have a nice day!