Question about 1996 Oldsmobile 88

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Need help... Im at the point to fire my car..!!

My oldsmobile 1996 88, gets off every once a while when driving; specially at slow speed or stop.. Crankshaft position , camshaft , MAP, MAF, IAC and Throttle sensors are already replaced... check engine light is now off but the car continues stalling at slow speed or stop.. wire set also is new and coils set...

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  • 1madgirl Nov 29, 2008

    I have the same problem been doing it for almost a year, now the car wont turn over at all, the security light is now on as well, and it wont turn over.
    I am about to take a sledge hammer to this piece of ****.


  • major48 Dec 28, 2008

    Hey I think i have the same problem you are talking about. For some reason if I drive my 1996 oldsmobile 88 for a while It will start to sputter and sometimes shut off. I have replaced EGR valve MAP,MAF, gas filter, upper intake manifold plenum but still no luck. After constantly monitoring when the car does this I have come to the conclusion that it is overheating. Because it will let me get to work fine but on the way home at almost the same spot it will start sputtering. I did another test where I took the same route home but i did not drive over 30 and this time i didnt get any sputtering. I am going to have the thermostat replaced next week and see if that fixes the problem.

  • major48 Jan 15, 2009

    I got the radiator flushed and put in a new thermostat but I still have the issue. I guess i will try new plugs and cables next.

  • ptabaja Feb 02, 2009

    My car has started stalling as well as jerking, sputtering, and now sometimes won't start and i have to wait 15 minutes or so to try again and it will start right up....maybe this is a common issue for this type of car....can't wait to get a new one in the spring.

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Sounds like the solenoid that locks up the torque converter. This is a mechanical device that locks up the torque converter at around 31 MPH. Pull the shifter into a lower gear (normal drive rather than overdrive) while you re driving about 33 mph. You will feel the car **** a little as it drops the lock up soleniod pin out. Shift it back and forth between overdrive and drive at this speed...33 mph or so.... as long as you can feel this happening a few times. I'd say to do it 10 - 30 times. This will not hurt anything but if it is mechanically sticking, it might help to solve the problem

There are a few other things I might suggest but this will first be a good test. If you drive the car in second gear (much slower to not over rev the engine), it should not ever stall because the torque converter should not lock up anyway.

This problem will not set an OBDII code or turn the check engine light on at all. This will make your car stall when comming to a stop or turning a corner. The car will quickly restart. This can be a very intermitent problem.

Good luck

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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This is just a possible solution to you all follow the airtube from your air filter box and remove the aluminum block that is on the intake the air tube connects to this block, once its out of the way look inside the intake to see if antifreeze is present if so you need to replace the plastic intake, due to poor construction it is common for them to crack and leak water in to the combustion chambers eventually cause your car to stop running and it will not crank, because the cylinders are full of water,

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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The problem sounds like the solenoid that locks up the torque converter. This will not set a code or turn on the check engine light. The car will restart each time after it stalls. This will happen when you are comming to a stop or turning a corner. At times, you can start the car in neutral but when you put it in drive or reverse, it will again stall.

This can also happen after you have driven the car and parked it. When you restart the car, it may stall when you try to drive it because the solenoid is still locked from when you pulled into the parking spot.

Try to free it up by driving the car about 32 mph in drive (drive with the square around the D) where the overdrive and lock up torque converter will work. At 32 - 34 mph, pull the shifter down to the next Drive (D without the box around it) and you should feel the bump of the torque converter unlocking. Then put it back into the upper drive location and you will feel it lock up agian. Repeat this about 20 times and see if this does not help. These can start becomming mechanically "Sticky" and cycling them 10 - 30 times can help.

There is also a 6 wire connector on the forward (front of the car) side of the transmission. This connector might be dirty. Clean it with electrical contact cleaner (spray type) and reconnect it to the transmission. This connector is probably not the problem but worth lookign at anyway.

There is also a small port in the valve body of the transmission that if plugged, it can cause this problem. I feel it is most likely a "Sticky" soleniod that locks up the torque converter and makes the car stall just like comming to a stop in a standard transmission car without pushing in the clutch.

Good luck,

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If the check engine light comes on it will store a code so take it to a shop and pay them to read the codes. This may give you a starting point.

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