The timing belt was replaced and tha car was running good until one day i was driving it and shut off i replaced the crankshaft sensor, the main computer and the car won't start, i dont know if can be the camshaft sensor or anything else i dont want to spend more money buying parts before to make sure what it is, if anybody can help ill be apreciate.
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To clarify, you said it runs for 20 min then quits, and it won't start again until it cools off. Have you checked for spark at the plugs and fuel pressure right after it quits running ? These models have an ignition module attached to the side of the distributor that has a history of failing when hot. The coil and the pickup inside the distributor can fail too. Could also be a relay.
The only way to know for sure is to hook a gauge to the rail and check the fuel pressure when it won't start. Sitting for a few minutes and restarting is normally a sign of a relay or coil cooling off. There should be a EEC relay that powers the dist module and ECM. I know you said you have spark, but it could be something else related. Also, if you have spark at the right time and no fuel pressure, you should be able to use starting fluid to substitute. I don't suppose you have dual tanks and the switching valve is the problem ?
start with the basics: an engine with no internal problems (like timing belt broke, or valve train not timed) needs fuel and spark to start.Since your getting fuel up to the fuel rail to feed the injectors, lets assume for the moment that the injectors are working to put gas into the cyllinder (You coud check that by pulling a plug or two out and see if they are wet or smell of gas.) Then check for spark (Hold the metal tip of plug wire 1/4 inch from a metal bolt or ground on the engine. Careful you don't get a shock-you can also buy a spark checker for a few bucks. just put the plug wire on it and ground it with the clip. Then you won't get a shock.) If you see that it is getting spark, then you may need an expert diagnosis for why it won't run. If you do not detect any spark (might want to try more than one plug wire) then you need to diagnose your ignition. If your car has a distributor, take off the cap and check inside for a cracked dist. cap or bad or worn rotor. You may also have a bad ignition coil or ignition module (expensive, but not as expensive as a bad engine control computer. Distributorless ignition? Again, may be a bad coil, coil pack, or ignition module. good luck, i'm about out of suggestions.
YOUR CAR HAS A DISTRIBUTOR.THE DSTRIBUTOR MOUNTING BOLT COULD HAVE WORKED IT SELF A LOOSE AND THROW OFF YOUR IGNITION TIMING.CHECK TO SEE IF YOU ARE GETTING SPARK AT SPARK PLUGS.IF NOT TIMING OFF.YOU HAVE FAULTY IGNITION COIL OR FAULTY IGNITION MODULE.CODE SCAN FOR A FAULT CODE THAT SAY ICM IGNITION CONTROL NOT TRIGGERING OR IGNITION CONTROL MODULE LOW INPUT CONDITIONS.ALSO CHECK IGNITION FUSE TO IGNITION COIL AND MODULE.HAVE VECHICLE CODE SCAN THAT WILL PIN POINT NO START PROBLEM BECAUSE MANY THINGS WILL CAUSE NO START PROBLEMS.MEANT TO SAY IF TIMING BELT SLIPS OR BREAK THAT WILL SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE.I HAD A 77 CHEVROLET MY TIMING BELT BROKE WHILE I WAS DRIVING CAR SHUT OFF LIKE YOU RUN OUT OF GAS.REMOVE VALVE COVER HAVE FRIEND START CAR TURNING ON IGNITION SWITCH WORK THE STARTER SEE IF ROCKERS ARMS MOVE IF NO TIMING BELT BROKE.
Sounds like your computer needs to be replaced, it controls all of the ignition firing order. somethng else, the cam position sensor may be bad also, only 2 other problems I'm aware of in the ignition circuit.