While driving my 74 camper up long fairly steep grade started getting blow by made it 38 miles used 4 quarts of oil . no oilfouled plugs. need to drive 88 miles home did i blow the rings out ?still have oil pressure
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Re: 74 dodge 318 sudden massive blow-by
It does sound like a broken ring, but it could be a head gasket blown in a way as to only leak oil and not coolant. Also, are you sure your not just leaking the oil (probably from the rear seal if you're on a continuous grade) or could the oil filter have developed a hole (I had old jeeps that when the motor mounts wore, the oil filter would touch the frame). To rule out the rings, a 'wet' and a 'dry' compression test needs to be done. This means checking each cylinder with a compression tester and recording the readings (dry test). Then repeating this procedure with a spoonful or so of oil in each cylinder. If the results are drastically different, you need rings. I would remove the torque converter cover though and check for leaks inside. (this is the cover on the bottom of the transmission 'bell-housing' facing your engine's oil pan. Good luck!
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Has the exhaust ( catalytic converter) been check for proper flow? I would try a test pipe to by-pass converter and see if that helps. You used to be able to buy them, but a good exhaust shop can make one pretty quick, and then try it.
I would start with the throd body and Mass Air Flow system for build up, do not listen to anyone who tells you that low grade gasoline is ok for you to use, your engine will not perform well on it and will cause a sticky residue on the throd body and MAF sensor. Also it is critical that you keep your truck with a clean air filter and service with oil changes and spark plugs as needed, follow dodge reccomendations, I learned the hard way 1994 Dodge Ram PU 1500 Quad and 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 PU both were the same way, they both had trouble with AC and Radiators as well.
One quart per month is a bit more than I'd expect but you didn't mention how many miles you drive during that month.If you live where the ambient temps are very warm, it may help to use a good synthetic. Synthetic oils do not burn off or break down chemically as fast as conventional oils do. I'd use a 20w40 grade. Depending on the miles you've driven you shouldn't have excessive ring wear but the valve stem seals may have dried out and cracked. If the usage remains constant and there is no smoking etc, you could either leave it alone or have new seals installed. Average driving is approximately 1,000 miles per month so when figuring consumption, use that as a baseline. One quart per 1,000 miles in very hot conditions is a bit high....I'd expect to see 1/2 qt or slightly less. One odd thing though is that generally, especially in an engine that holds six quarts to begin with, at five quarts, the engine should not feel any different!!! Also.....you use miles to determine oil change intervals. Oil is best changed at between 3K and 4K miles. Only way you use the 3month method is if you don't use it much. (you can run most good synthetics longer than that)
The recommended fill point will be 4 1/2 Quart. This includes the filter, as well. Fill to
4 1/2 Quarts. No more, or less.
Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 5W-20 Motor Oil
is the only oil to run is this particular vehicle. If you run a heavier oil in this engine, you risk clogging the head oil ports, and the timing chain tensioner oil channels, as well. This will induce massive repairs down the road.
I assume you have no leaks as you say. Your van does hold 5 quarts of 10w30 oil with filter change. The level was 1/4" above the add mark, which is less than 1 quart low. You drove the van 1,300 miles so it is very possible that it could burn that much oil in that many miles without you seeing much smoke. Top it off and have someone else drive it. Have them get up to around 60 mph, then let off the accelerator and let it coast down to 30 mph, then accelerate fully while you follow in another vehicle. If your van is burning oil you will see a big puff of blue smoke when they accelerate after coasting. If you do not I would suspect you were cheated out of about 1/2 quart of oil. You would not be the first person this has happened to. Top it off and check as I described and then check the level after driving another 1,300 miles. If it is still full find another place to change your oil as the place you went are crooks.
Yes. Providing the engine has been well maintained and does not have lots lof sludge in it. I do not recommend flush (it loosens up too much debris all at one time and can plug pump screen. On older engines i usually introduce synthetic in "stages", replacing two quarts on first oil change, then 100% at 3000 miles (with filter). Does it work?? I used synthetic (amsoil) in a 318 engine bought at 100k miles and ran it till the trans finally started slipping @ 363K miles. When I bought it it had some light lifter noise. After using synthetic for a few months, noise disappeared and I never had any internal problems for the remainder of the time I had it (and sold car for $400 just for the engine!!!) As far as seaks go, usually synthetics will soften hard seals and lessen leaks valve covers etc may leak more but usually are easy to replace. Good luck PS: only synthetic I would not use is Mobil because there are more additive packages and less actual lubricant in each quart than you could imagine: it has been "re-formulated" at least ten times since they first put it on the market.