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Re: 1993 rear brake cylinder removal
You have to take the springs away from the ends of the cylinder and it take a good hit with a hammer to loosen it and it will fall out... but just fyi, put the OTHER side on too!!! it will leak tomorrow since you are replacing this one today...guarantee!
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Buy new wheel lock cylinders remove the brake drum then the shoes and spring follow be the brake line then you can remove the cylinder and replace in remember that you must bleed the brake line after doing this start with the farthest from the master cyclinder also good time to replace shoe spings and hardware since you will have to adjust the rear brakes any ways
the wheel cylinder has a brake line on the rear side of brake plate and needs to be disconnected also two bolts on rear need to be removed you can pull the brake shoes far enough to remove the cylinder
After you remove the tire, the drim should slide off. If it doesn't then try using a rubber mallet and gently tap on the outside edge as you pull on it. Sometimes you also need to tap on the drum in the center part. I have sprayed penetrating lubes like WD-40 or PB Blaster into the seam at the center. You may also have to back off the parking brake cable or even use the adjuster to back off the shoes.
remove upper shoe return springs, loosen but do not remove brake line using line wrench, remove 2 bolts holding cylinder. Have new cylinder ready to install. pull shoes back from cylinder. remove line from cylinder and pull out of housing. Replace with new cylinder, first attaching line, then bolts. reset shoes into cylinder and make sure nothing else has slipped out of place (eg, parking brake cross bar and spring). Replace return springs on post. replace drum. open bleeder valve and allow gravity bleed until all air is out or bleed manually. any questions, lemme know.
ok there are a few things you need to check.. you said you changed the master cylinder.. did you bleed the braking system after???
remove from wheel,,
locate bleed valve on caliper / or unscrew one of the lines
pump brake and push right down and hole,,
repeat plugging the lines with your finger ,,
repeat the above 2 steps a few times
tighten the bleed screw while holding the brake right down..
if that fails ...
if that fails try adjusting the brake up.. its on the rear tires,, remove one and them remove the shield protecting the brake shoe,, see the turn bolt that adjust the pistons,, adjust that a bit until the brake is in the desired position..
Remove wheel, brake drum, and brake shoes. The cylinder is the part the brake line goes into and it spreads the brake shoes apart when you brake.
Loosen the brake line but do not take off, unbolt the cylinder and then disconnect brake line. loosely connect the brake line to the new cylinder so you do not loose much brake fluid, bolt new cylinder in and then tighten the brake line. Reinstall shoes. There should be a bleeding screw/grease head in the brake cylinder, loosen this and have someone step on the brake to bleed the line, have them hold the brake while you tighten the bleed screw. Do this as many times as necessary until brake fluid only with no air comes out. Reinstall drum and tire, top off brake fluid.
You will need to dismantle the rear brakes and replace the wheel cylinder. Use plenty of penetrating oil when removing it, and use a MAPP gas torch liberally and a tight-fitting six-pint socket wrench with a jerking motion to loosen the rusty bolts and brake lines before you try to remove them. Be prepared to replace all of the rear brake lines. They will probably not survive. After the wheel cylinder is replaced, you will need to bleed the brakes. It is a good idea to replace both sides and to replace the shoes, drums and brake hardware at this time. Use anti-seize on every non-friction contact point such as self-adjusters, backing plates, hub faces and pivots. Try not to get brake fluid on your skin or the car's paint, as it will dissolve paint and is hard on your hands. Do not let the master cylinder run empty at any point, or you will have to bleed the front brakes as well, and could damage the master cylinder. You are going to need lots of patience and plenty of rags.
Have you removed the Brake Line? If not: this must be removed in order to remove the cylinder. Use a flare-nut wrench. If you have removed the Brake Lines and Bolts, tap lightly with rubber mallet to loosen.
You don't have calipers in drum brakes. you have wheel cylinders that activate the brakes when pedal is pressed. The brake cylinder is located at the top of the brake backing plate on the rear wheel. the brake line is screwed to it on the outside and two small bolt hold it in place. remove your brake springs, shoes etc., then remove the brake line and bolts. Before removing the brake line and bolts spray them with WD40 or something similar to loosen the rust around the fittings.