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Re: Clutch pedal won't disengage clutch
Make sure fluid is full... then pump the pedal with it NOT RUNNING as many times really fast as you can.. try it after that, if it works then you need either a clutch MASTER cyliner and/or a SLAVE cylinder.. MOST likely being the slave cylinder. if the pumping action doesnt cause it to disengage then you have a burnt out clutch. The system is hydralic and takes regular DOT3 brake fluid in the small resevoir under the hood next to the brake master cylinder...
The slave cylinder being bad would mean you have to removed the transmission and install a new slave cylinder... thats the most common issue with those around that mileage...
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if it has a hydraulic clutch ,the problem is a failing clutch slave cylinder not holding pressure
the leak is probably from the slave cylinder
the indications are that the clutch pressure plate is not properly clearing the clutch plate and the drag is causing the problems
It jump because the clutch disc itself is good, but the clutch is not engaging-the pedal is not making the clutch engage. When it does, then you can shift without grinding, then you can shift period. Clutch pedal operates a cable or it operates a hydraulic system-they both, which ever one you have, move the clutch fork on the transmission bell housing just a bit to cause the clutch to disengage the transmission from the engine's flywheel...so you can shift, see, easy, smooth shifts, no problem, no grinding. Your clutch itself is okay, the pedal is just not operating it.
Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).
Normally when a clutch "slips" you can almost come to a stop without killing the engine. Also, the truck will not speed up even tho the engine is, such as when you are in a high gear or climbing a hill. Often times, if the clutch is worn out, it will have a high pedal, you can tell the clutch is disengaging as soon as you push down on the pedal instead of half way down to the floor. Same thing if the clutch is oil soaked.
If you lost resistance from the pedal, you may need to replace the clutch slave. The clutch slave is the one at the end of the clutch line attached at the transmission. Check also for leaks on your system.
It is very difficult for you to disengage the clutch by hand or with any leverage you can get outside the transmission. There is over 200 lbs of force clamping on the clutch disc.
If you replaced the clutch and took the slave cylinder out of the transmission without putting a brick under the clutch pedal or disconnecting the pivot arm from the pedal then you ruined the hydraulics. Buy a new PRE-BLED system from a local auto store. Generally this is the problem.
Either that or the clutch fork is bent or you installed the throwout bearing backwards (or simply fell off the fork which is not all that uncommon).
Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
Install transmission to flywheel housing.
Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
Install starter motor.
Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable