'85 isuzu pup. changed pads on front and shoes on back. Now when I bleed the front passenger side brake all I get is like a real foamy fluid out of it. the rest of the brakes bleed out fine but there is still no brake pedal.
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Re: can't seem to bleed brakes
As long as it is foamy it indicates you have air trapped inside that one caliper make sure that the bleeder valve is closing all the way chances are you are sucking air back into the caliper through the bleeder or you have a leaking brake hose or even the caliper ccould be leaking, basicaly look for fluid leaks
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Hi Alicia,how is your brake fluid?Usually just changing front brake shoes requires no bleeding since the brake line was not open,how were your brakes before you changed the pads,if fluid is low,maybe back wheel cylinders are leaking.Front calibers could be bad,or even master cylinder,need more info.
if master replaced sounds like air still in lines rebleed the brake lines start with passenger rear than driver rear -pass front -than driver front last..before bleeding check rear brake shoes are adjusted correctly
i assume you mean the front pads, because the back are probably shoes..is it both front wheels or just one? if it is the front brakes locking up, its either the hose to that caliper is collapsed or the caliper it self is faulty. if its the rear brakes, its possible they were put on backwards...little shoe goes toward the fron and the bigger one goes toward the back...maybe they were put together wrong..id say if this guy that did your brakes, cant figure the problem out, then he shouldnt be doing brake jobs!
My 1995 mustang uses a 13 mm socket for the front calipers. I used a screwdriver to pry the pads back before removing the calipers, easier than using the C-clamp method.
As for the back brakes if you have the shoe type brakes you will need a brake shoe adjusting tool to loosen the adjusters.
Probably a good sized 2-4 pound hammer.
Slip joint plyers.
A 5/16 -3/8 wrench for the bleeder screws depending on the one you have. I didn't need to bleed mine as I was able to remove the shoes without disturbing the wheel cylinders.
If you need to bleed the brakes a good bleeding kit or 2 people that can work together pumping and bleeding the brakes .
hope this helps.
As always I would refer the a good shop manuals such as Motor, Haynes or Chiltons.
are they drums on the rear? if not you can do this. on the caliper there should be 2 bolts holding it on. loosen one and pull the other out. lift the caliper up or down remove pads open the master cylinder so that you can compres the piston on the caliper. if you dont open the master sylinder cap it will be very tough. replace pads. tighten bolts nice and snug. then with car off pump brakes till tough. make sure you fill the master sylinder up that way no air gets in to it. if you do you gonna have to bleed the brakes. if that happens start at the passenger side rear then driver side rear then passenger front then driver front. please lemme know if you need help or if i helpd at all
You can adjust the shoes outward on the rear by removing the wheels and drums, then above the axle but below the wheel cylinder you will see an arm that is horizontal, pushing both of the shoes outwards. There should be an adjustment nut that you can turn to extend the arm to push the shoes out.
Something doesn't sound right, you shouldn't have to remove the brake line to install pads. Did you have to do this on both sides? Do the new pads and the old pads look the same? Did you get the caliper on crooked? Just recheck your work first before replacing more parts. When you install the caliper, You have to hook the pad on one side first before you slide it over the rotor.
crawl underneath the front and look at the caliper if it has a duel piston caliper you will see 2 circles about 3 inches across and if it is a single piston caliper it will only have one of these circles in the middle this iswhere the pistons are. yes those pads are suitable. As for bleeding the brakes you need to start at the passengers side rear wheel and bleed it first then go to the drivers side rear wheel then go to the passengers side front wheel and then finally the drivers side front wheel. If you are only replacing the brake pads and shoes then you don't need to bleed the brakes. If you are bleeding the brakes then you will want to be sure to top up the brake fluid as you are doing thebleeding process as if you don't you will end up having to start all over again. as for special tools you may need a 3/8 hex bit and a 8 inch " C " clamp to compress the calipers after you remove the brake pads. If you are replacing the rotors you may require a special socket fo dis-assebleing and re-assembly of the front hubs.
hi if one sides wearing a lot more than the other there is a problem with the caliper or the linkes seizing on if its one pad this would seem likley as good brake pads drove correctly will last 35000 i bet you had to pay for the replacement pads yates210456