Question about Mercedes-Benz S-Class

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I have a 1969 mercedes 280S wit dual Zenithse. The accelerator pumps do not work. The leathers are new but the actuating arm only moves the upper part of the piston and does not move the actual leather pistpn.When I take it apart and move it by hand it sticks down.

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  • Edatbv Nov 24, 2008

    Your solution would be fine except I have dual Zenith carbs,not a Mikuni carb. I don't see any adjustment screws on the cam for the Zenith. I can't get the accelerator pumps to work on my 1969 Mercedes 280S. The leathers are new.

  • Edatbv Nov 24, 2008

    This acelerator pump is a 2 part with a dual spring seperating the leather seal from a top metal pump. I have tried everything from gas to wd-40. They are very pliable.the operating cam will not push the pump beyond the springs, so it cannot work! When I manually push it beyond this point, it sticks. Ed

  • Edatbv Nov 25, 2008

    I had these carbs rebuilt by a local shop specializing on mercedes, however by the time I finished the restoration, their carb man had quit. I have a parts breakdown book, but just can't figure this one out. I do appreciate your concern in trying. I think I will call a carb rebuilding place and ask them. Who knows..... Ed

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Yeah it is better u may consult to carb man again for repairing/assistance.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

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Youll need to insert a small spring between your accelerator pump's piston and its seat, this will release the piston from sticking when it is pushed down by your actuating arm. The spring should fit inside the chamber or cylinder of your carbs piston. its tension should be enough just to push your pistons back into position

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

  • albert felizardo
    albert felizardo Nov 25, 2008


    Is this the carburator youre telling us sir?

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Http://old-carburetors.com/1927-Dykes/1927-Dykes-061.htm


take a look... something in your system is causing the hang up.... the leathers should be soaked in fuel to provide a nice fit that wont stick i think

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • milespeed Nov 25, 2008

    it is not supposed to go farther than that point mechanically.. the vacuum takes it the rest of the way from venturi effect when accelerating

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  1. The "blue" colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into.  To decrease the amount of fuel squirted  the adjustment screw is turned "clockwise" or in.  To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned "counter clockwise"  or out.  To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw.  Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32" of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
  2. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor.  Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and 
    turn the screw back in till the coughing stops.  Tighten down the lock nut.  This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • jamesrated Nov 24, 2008

    Timing Adjustment Screw
    This is the "Green" colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw.  The" Mucker" said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the "timing" of the squirt. By altering it's setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won't have to be touched.





  • jamesrated Nov 24, 2008

    u will find the picture for this at the link below:

    http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/6...



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Good luck on this one my friend.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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