Hi. After I had my coolant flushed and filled the heat went cold. I suspected a "stuck open" thermostat and changed it. Didn't solve the problem. I then suspected that debri may have clogged the heater core. I flushed it out and with water noticing good flow through the core. Topped off the coolant again and still didn't fix the problem. Coolant supply to the core is hot, but luke warm in the return hose. Blower works great. I'm gonna check the return hose this week, but definately open to suggestions. Thanks.
There is several ways to see. 1. It could still be the heater core, try blowing air in to IN house, if it comes out the OUT hose strong, its not that. 2. It is posible there is an a pocket in the system. Try bleeding the air hose, that could be it. 3. Take the glove box out, disconnect the air bag CAREFULLY! Start the car, And turn the heat all the way up, then all the way down. U should see a arm move back and forth. MAke sure it goes ALL the way shut, and open. 4. It could be that the doors in the dash don't work. I'm not sure how to do this. Hope the other work!!
You have air in the system. You have to park the car on an incline so the front of the car is higher than the rear, then run the engine with the radiator cap off and let the air escape while topping off the radiatorevery now and then. I was told about the incline to get the radiator higher than the heater core so that the air bubbles could come out.
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The first item to check is the engine temperature. To help cold engines warm up fast, the flow of coolant is restricted by way of the thermostat-a thermal valve that opens when it's hot and closes when it's cold. When the thermostat wears out, it remains stuck open or shut, which leads to either overheating or cool operation. A worn-out thermostat might be preventing the coolant from getting warm enough to heat the cabin. Replacing the thermostat can be a 20-minute job or a real hassle. Check your service manual to see how involved the replacement is.
If the thermostat is fine, the flow of coolant in the heater core may be restricted by built-up goop. Sediment and grime can accumulate between coolant changes and collect in the heater core. A flush can be done by disconnecting the heater hoses at the water pump (when the car is cold) and using compressed air to push the coolant and gunk backward, out the inlet hose. Be sure to capture all the old coolant and dispose of it properly. Follow that with a few rounds of filling the core with tap water and flushing it out in the same way, then refill the core with mixed coolant and reattach the hoses. None of these fixes is hard, but the heater-core flush is messy, so you might want to take your car to a shop for service.
It could most certainly be a bad or stuck thermostat, but on a 1997 model, your water pump may be gone (or not circulating enough coolant). This is why its only heating up while in traffic - there is no airflow cooling the fins of your radiator from moving at speed. I would check this out - WHILE ENGINE IS COLD - Start the engine and then remove the radiator cap - you should see coolant circulating from the movement of the water pump. Let it run 5-10 minutes to see if the thermostat will open - if it does open, your temp gauge should come down from the opening of the thermostat
Feel the 2 tubes at the firewall for the heater core. If they are not getting hot, the heater core needs to be flushed out or replaced. I had this problem with a 1990 Cadilac Deville, it was just a plugged up heater core.
Remember to install sealant after flushing out the system to prevent leaks.
Feel the hoses going to heater core, one should be hot and the other warm. If one is cold or both are then heater core is clogged. Make sure heater control valve works and as vacuum to it and or the cable is free.
Either you are low on coolant or you still have an air pocket in the system after you replaced the thermostat.
With the engine cold remove the radiator cap. Top off the radiator if low. Start the engine and allow to warm up at idle, topping of the coolant as necessary. Once the thermostat has opened, the upper hose will get hot. Snap the throttle a couple of time. This will help force coolant into the heater core and push out the air. Once the cooling fans come on replace the radiator cap.
Raise the engine RPM'S to about 2,500 and hold it until there is sufficient heat out of the vents. Let the engine idle, Id there constant heat? If not snap the throttle a couple more times and then raise the RPM's up again.
flush your radiator first.with the thermostat out you should see the water moving if not bad water pump.this engine needs the thermostat to function properly and either a 50/50 coolant or straight coolant so it does not boil over.also make sure your fans are coming on
Change thermostat and use 50/50 coolant mixture only. Add coolant with car running. Fill up radiator, let everything go into engine, then add more until it is completely full. Fans only come on when car is idle for a period of time while stopped.
Yes, that would involve removing the old thermostat, installing a new one, and also a new gasket. What does your temperature gauge indicate when the car has run a while and is warmed up? If the gauge indicates that it is running on the low side, or never seems to warm up, it could indicate a thermostat stuck in the open position, which will prevent it from reaching operating temperature, and would explain little or no heat situation. 1st, tough, check the coolant level. If it's low it could cause the no heat problem.