Question about 1999 Chevrolet Suburban

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Vacuum gauge installation

After market vacuum gauge for efficient fuel usage. Where is the best place to attach or tap into a vacuum line?? Please describe the location clearly. The provided hose is extremely thin--so a fat hose is not a good choice. Is there anyplace that will be easy to attach and run this gauge as designed??

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Follow Mr. Berens answer you could also splice a copper line into the main run with the rubber tips on each end.

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

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Look for a vacume tree at rear of intake manifold and y in.You want manifold vacume not venture vacume so stay away from throttle body.

Posted on Dec 09, 2008


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How to fix 4x4

Check for power and ground at the vacuum solenoid when 4x4 is commanded. If no power/ground.... start there. If power/ground is good. check for vacuum supply to solenoid. Vacuum leaves the solenoid and splits and then goes to a vacuum diaphram at each front wheel. Check to see if both vacuum lines are attached to the diaphrams at each wheel. Make sure there are no cracks in the vacuum lines to each wheel. There are also one way check valves in each line. Make sure they are allowing a vacuum supply. If all this checks out, use a vacuum gauge and check for vacuum directly at each wheel where the lines attach to the diaphrams. If vacuum is present at each wheel, suspect one/both vacuum diaphrams leaking and the front hub assembly will have to come apart for inspection/repair

Feb 04, 2016 | 2006 Ford F-150

1 Answer

Could a vacuum leak cause right bank #1and bank 2 to run lean?

Running lean indicates too much air (like a vacuum line leak or an intake manifold leak) or not enough gas (like low fuel pressure or clogged injectors)

I would check the fuel pressure. Autozone and others will loan or rent fuel pressure testers. If fuel pressure is correct, purchase a vacuum gauge for about $15-$20, and hook it to a manifold vacuum tap. If your vacuum reading at idle is less than 17-22 inches vacuum and steady, then you have a vacuum leak. It is a great diagnostic tool-tells you quick if there is an air leak somewhere. Here is a link about using a vacuum gauge:

If you vacuum reading is good, check the injectors.

Jan 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Just put a new delphi fuel pump in my1996 grand caraban did this twice. Still im geting no pressure at the shrader vaulve. Van runs on either. The pump and regulator are the same assembly is the pump the...

Not likely. It is also not likely that the regulator is in the fuel pump assembly. Some people mistake the check valve in the pump as a regulator. Also, some vehicles have a pump module which includes the fuel gauge sensor and that can be mistaken as the regulator by some DIYers. The caravan uses a return-loop fuel system. This means that the pump is cycling fuel from the tank to the fuel rail on one line and the fuel that is not needed at the injectors flows back through another line to the fuel tank. This is done to prevent the pump from building up too much pressure and allows the fuel flowing through the pump to keep it cool. Because of the looping system, there needs to be a flow restrictor (aka regulator) at the fuel rail to provide a constant pressure source for the injectors. The regulator is normally at the end of the rail and will have a vacuum line attached. Pull the vacuum line, place a rag at the vacuum port, and crank the engine. There should be no fuel coming out the port. If any fuel comes out of the vacuum port, the regulator is faulty. The regulator could still be faulty even if there is no fuel from the port, but fuel leakage is an easy way to be sure. If the regulator is not providing proper restriction to maintain pressure, then the fuel simply flows in a circular loop from and back to the fuel tank without enough pressure to allow the injector to do their thing,

Nov 07, 2014 | 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan

2 Answers

Fuel pressure 1998 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 L V6

You should have a test port on the Fuel Supply rail, use a tool from a local auto parts "Tool Loaner program" where you can borrow tools for free,w/a deposit of course,then follow the steps provided;

MPI Fuel System Pressure Test

The MPI fuel system used in vehicles equipped with a 4.OL engine employs a vacuum balanced pressure regulator. Fuel pressure should be approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) lower with the vacuum line attached to the regulator than with the vacuum line disconnected. System fuel should be 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum line connected to the regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum line disconnected. CAUTION: Some fuel may be discharged when connecting fuel gauge to fuel rail.
  1. Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail (Fig. 7).
  2. Remove vacuum line from pressure regulator.
  3. Start the vehicle.
  4. Note gauge reading. With vacuum line disconnected, fuel pressure should be approximately 269 kPa (39 psi).
  5. Connect vacuum line to pressure regulator. Note gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be approximately 214 kPa (31 psi).
  6. If fuel pressure is not approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) higher with vacuum line removed from regulator, inspect pressure regulator vacuum line for leaks, kinks or blockage. CAUTION: Fuel pressure will rise to as much as 655 kPa (95 psi) when the fuel return tine is pinched shut, shut engine down immediately after pinching oft fuel return line.
  7. If fuel pressure is low, momentarily pinch shut the hose section of the fuel return line. If fuel pressure remains low, inspect the fuel supply line, fuel filter, and fuel rail inlet for blockage. If fuel pressure rises replace fuel pressure regulator.
  8. If fuel pressure is above specifications, inspect the fuel return line for kinks and blockage.

Capacity Test

  1. Remove the cap from the pressure test port in the fuel rail.
  2. Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to the pressure fitting on the fuel rail (Fig. 7).
  3. Start the vehicle. Pressure should be approxi- mately 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum hose removed from the pressure regulator.
  4. If the pressure is not to specification, check the following before replacing the fuel pressure regulator:
  • 4a - Inspect the fuel supply and return lines/hoses for kinks or restricting bends
  • 4b - Check the fuel pump flow rate. A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1 liter of fuel per minute with the fuel return line pinched off. If the fuel pump does not pump adequately, then inspect the fuel system for a plugged fuel filter or fuel pump inlet filter (sock). Fuel pump flow rate can be done by connecting one end of an old A/C gauge hose to the fuel test port on the fuel rail and inserting the other end of the hose into a container of at least 1 liter capacity. Run the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire into diagnostic connector terminals D1-5 and D1-6. Be sure to pinch off the fuel return line or most of the fuel will be returned to the fuel tank.

May 19, 2014 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to check fuel pressure 91 geo storm gsi

1.6L DOHC (same way as the ISUZU impulse ) same car.
4XE1 engine twin cam.
has MPI injection with fuel rail, regulator and loop
disconnecting the feed line and stuffing it with guage only does 1 of 5 tests. done on MPI. it does JUST the shut test.
the correct way it to check it at the filter or rail tests ports on most cars.
in some cases you must add it.
they sell banjo fittings with test ports at summit racing dot com.
so the first question on all MPI cars, is , where is the stock fittings.
other cars the rail has a schrader valve or a plugged hole to add one. (test port) did you look first for this?
to test the FPR, unplug the vacuum line running
and pressure will jump up 6 to 10 psi.
this simulates wide open throttle pressure, a key fact in getting full power from engine, i test cranking presssure, idle, 3000rpm
and wot pressures to be sure the PFR is working, not just the pump.

the spec at the rail is.

Late 1986 to 1993 I-TEC MPFI system (after VIN 0908197)
Regulator vacuum line connected-36 psi
Regulator vacuum line disconnected-42.5 to 45 psi

the shunt test can hit 60 pis easy. do so for only 5sec.
as this stresses the pump .

the only rail drawing , shows no fittings (cheap buggers)

not even a cheap plug...

24024302-wtht4tipiqsxmsfaksxjx4vs-4-0.jpg below is the twin cam, 1.6L
buy a TEE feeting, and put it at upper, red arrow.
use clamps rated for fuel injection, not chezzy screw band clamps as seen on carb cars. use the correct parts.
or you will get leak and it will not be pretty,
the filter as at 14 ID. this is the pressure feed side of the loop.
30 to 60psi , so all parts must be rated over 60, psi, (100psi is a nice goal)


now the words directly from the IMPULSE FSM.

  1. Relieve the fuel pressure.
  2. Disconnect the fuel line near the engine and install fuel pressure gauge T-connector in the line.
  3. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the T-connector.
  4. Start the engine and check the fuel pressure, it should be:
  5. 4XC1-Turbo and DOHC I-Mark, G200Z Impulse: 35.6 psi with the vacuum hose of the pressure regulator disconnected and plugged. 28.4 psi with the vacuum hose connected and at idle.
  6. 4ZC1-Turbo, 4ZD1 Impulse and 4ZE1 engine: 42.6 psi with the vacuum hose at the pressure regulator disconnected and plugged. 35.6 psi with the vacuum hose connected at idle. Disconnect the VSV before checking pressure.
  7. V6 engine: 9.13 psi at the fuel pressure line after the fuel filter.
  8. 4XE1 SOHC and DOHC engine: Flow test, disconnect the hose from the EFI fuel feed line at the engine and place in a suitable container. Apply battery voltage to the fuel pump. Pump should supply 1/4 quart (0.24L) within 15 seconds. Pressure test, connect a pressure gauge in the fuel pressure line after the fuel filter, located at the driver's side frame rail. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator. Apply battery voltage to the pump. After the pump stabilizes, the pressure should be 35-38 psi (245-256 kPa) and hold steady.

Apr 06, 2014 | Geo Storm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to adjust a 650

Turn each of the four (two if not a double pumper, on some) screws in just till they stop (not tight). Turn each out about one and a half turns.
Attach a vacuum gauge to any available port that carries full vacuum (in base of carb or on manifold).
Attach a tach to the ignition system (hand held, attaches to negative side of coil or slot marked "tach" on dist cap).
start the engine and turn throttle linkage adjustment to the lowest rpm the engine will run at.
adjust either of the front screws out so therpm and vacuum increases. As soon as it moves, do the same at each of the other screws. Repeat this till you have reached the highest rpm and vacuum reading. If rpm exceeds 800 while doing this, lower it at the throttle linkage. If any screw stops responding, don't adjust it any further. (happens on old carbs sometimes).
Usually after you reach the highest point, it's best to turn all the screws back in around a quarter turn.
Adjust the linkage so the rpm is at the factory setting for the engine you have or, if modified, generally best is between 800 and 900 at idle in gear (if automatic).
If it's on a Chevy engine, timing should be at 32 degrees total advance, base timing at around 12 degrees.
Adjustments cannot be made if there are any vacuum leaks or if fuel bowl floats are not properly set. Highest idle rpm and highest vacuum reading does not always happen at the same time. You are looking for the highest vacuum reading with the idle being smooth.
Holley carbs have many adjustments. Accelerator pump stroke and curve, squirter size and jet size determine how well the carb is "fine tuned" to your usage. On 85 and up automatics, transmission control cable MUST be correctly adjusted or you can quickly kill the transmission.

Sep 11, 2011 | Chevrolet Silverado Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Chevy 4.3 v6 edelbrock performer carb and hei distributor with vacuum advance. Which port on the carb do I connect the vacuum advance to? And where do the fuel lines hook up? Got the crank breather/pcv and...

Not sure which design carb you have but here's a rule that works for all carbs. Attach the vacuum advance hose to any port coming from the carb baseplate (bottom). If you don't have a free one, you can use a "T" in another line or if there's a fitting on the manifold you could use that as well. Just make sure that the line has full vacuum at idle. (check with a vacuum gauge or just put your finger over it and feel for vacuum) Since it's pretty old, it would be good to put your finger under the advance mechanism when you attach the line (running) and make sure the small rod that goes into the distributor moves when you do that. if it does not, then the advance diaphragm is bad and you will need to replace it. Use small rubber plugs to block off any unused ports.
As for the fuel line. You should have a threaded inlet on the fuel bowl. The line attaches there. If you need to make a line, you can get one from any parts house, cut it to length and use rubber fuel hose to join it together with the one already on the fuel pump. When running new line, keep it away from exhaust manifolds, belts and pulleys. Best to put an in-line filter in the hose....that will keep the carb clean. If it's a four barrel (doubtful for that engine) you would need a fuel rail that joins both carb inlets to the single line from the pump.
If you have a problem understanding this, just ask and I'll clarify it for you.

Jul 09, 2011 | 1985 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Starts right up ,pick up good ,when cruseing speed is reached it misses badly have replaced air filter ,plugs and plug wires has 160000 miles on it

maybe fuel pressure issue. Make sure regulator (at end of fuel rail) is getting vacuum. Replace fuel filter (Under hood, passenger side, front side of shock tower, mounted in fuel line). If this doesn't fix it, recommend checking fuel pressure (Position the ignition switch and the A/C system in theoff position. Install a fuel pressure gauge in thethe fuel line at the fuel filter connection. Locateand block off the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.Confirm that no leaks are present, then start theengine. While the engine is at idle, visually verifythe PSI reading on the gauge). Replace pump if pressure is below spec (43 PSI)
Please let me know if you have questions.

Oct 23, 2010 | 1994 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

I put a new fuel pump in my 97 concorde, it ran just fine all the way home, but in the morning i wouldnt start. i put another pump in and the same thing happend. could this be a short somewhere?

Well, the fuel pump relay may not be getting electricity to the fuel pump.

Also, use the following procedure to test the fuel pump before changing it again:

TESTING Fig. 1: Connect the fuel pressure gauge C4799B or equivalent to the fuel rail service valve - 3.3L shown 88175g09.gif
Fig. 2: Checking the fuel pressure with a gauge - 3.5L shown 88175g10.gif
Fig. 3: Checking the pressure between the pump and the filter 88175g11.gif
Fig. 4: Place the other end of the adapter 6668 into an approved gasoline container 88175g12.gif
  1. Release the fuel system pressure as described in earlier in this section.
  2. Remove the protective cover from the service valve on the fuel rail.
  3. Connect fuel pressure gauge C-4799B or equivalent to the fuel rail service valve.
  4. Place the ignition key in the ON position. Using the DRB III tester or equivalent, access the ASD fuel system test. (The ASD fuel system test will activate the fuel pump and pressurize the system.)
  5. If the gauge reading equals the specifications, then further testing is not required. Without vacuum applied to the regulator, the 3.3L engine fuel system operates at 55 psi (379 kPa). With the engine idling and the manifold vacuum applied to the regulator, the system operates at approximately 46 psi (317 kPa). Without vacuum applied to the regulator, the 3.5L engine fuel system operates at 48 psi (331 kPa). With the engine idling and the manifold vacuum applied to the regulator, the system operates at approximately 39 psi (269 kPa). The fuel system pressure varies with the different amounts of manifold vacuum applied to the regulator. If the pressure is not correct, record the pressure and remove the gauge.
  6. Ensure that the fuel does not leak from the fuel rail service valve. Install the protective cover onto the fuel rail service valve.
  7. If the fuel pressure reading was below the specifications, test the system according to the following procedure:
    1. Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
    2. Install a fuel gauge C4799 and fuel adapter 6631 or equivalent in the fuel supply line between the tank and the fuel filter.
    3. Using the DRB III scan tool or equivalent, with the ignition key in the ON position, repeat the ASD fuel system test.
  8. If the pressure is at least 5 psi (1 kPa) or higher than the reading recorded, replace the fuel filter.
  9. If no change is observed, gently squeeze the return hose. If the pressure increases, replace the pressure regulator. If the gauge reading does not change when the return hose is squeezed, the problem is either a plugged inlet strainer or defective fuel pump.
  10. If the fuel pressure reading was above the specifications test the system according to the following procedure:
    1. Perform the pressure release procedure.
    2. Install fuel pressure gauge C4799 and adapter 6631 or equivalent in the fuel supply line between the fuel tank and the fuel filter.
    3. Remove the fuel return line hose from the pump at the tank. Connect pressure test adapter 6668 or equivalent to the return line. Place the other end of adapter 6668 into an approved gasoline container. A minimum of 2 gallon tank should be sufficient. All return fuel will flow into the container.
    4. Using the DRB III scan tool or its equivalent, with the ignition key in the ON position, repeat the ASD fuel system test.
  11. If the pressure is now correct, replace the fuel pump.
  12. If the pressure is still above specifications, remove the fuel return hose from the chassis fuel tubes (at the engine) and attach fuel pressure test adapter 6668 or equivalent to the return tube. Place the other end of the hose in the clean container, repeat the test. If the pressure is now correct, check for a restricted fuel return line. If there is no change observed, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
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Oct 08, 2010 | 1997 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Change coils and plugs and engine is still not running right

you need fuel, air and spark at right time and place.
check all that. check a plug by crancking if sparking. check another one.
if ok go to fuel system.
Best is to have a vacuum gauge hooked up. Nobody uses that old trick. You can us that gauge for inlet vacuum or for fuel punp inspection.

Put you attention to fuel safety cut off valcve on proper functioning.
Check critical wire harness connections for poper contact and voltage level.

Apr 18, 2009 | 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE

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