The rear wheel bearing makes a grinding sound. I have had the inner, outer, and seal replaced like 6 times already. I was just reading that the bearing has to be re-packed and an adjustment procedure be done. Could it be the grease a service station is using that's causing the passenger side rear wheel bearing to make a grinding sound each time? Approx how long should it be after getting the bearing replaced or repacked, which they do anyway when it's being replaced, to get it repacked again? What could cause the rear wheel bearing to make a grinding noise after like 6 months or so each time? The driver side rear wheel bearing, even though I changed it at the same time as the passenger, doesn't make the noise at all.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
Re: 2002 Kia Rio rear wheel bearing passenger side
No I don't think anyone has checked the brake drum to see if it is worn. Another service station I took it to the other day, I asked the mechanic about the bearing and he said if they don't change the seal, which comes with the bearing, it could be causing the bearings to wear and make the noise. He also said it might be a problem with the alignment. I supply the repair station with the inner and outer bearing, as well as the seal. I read on a website that the bearing has to be re-packed, and a special adjustment procedure be done. After a bearing is either replaced or re-packed, approx how long till it is to be re-packed again?
Re: 2002 Kia Rio rear wheel bearing passenger side
Just a thought but has anyone checked the if the brake drum is worn? Only i had this on a 2002 Focus & the grinding noise in the end was coming from a lip on the inside edge of the drum that had formed. The lip then started rubbing against the metal part of the brake shoe as the lining started to wear down.
Most bearings these days come already pre-packed with grease so unless the new bearing has been cleaned of the manufacturers grease then i doubt 6 of them would wear out that fast.Although if the old grease inside the drum isnt removed then it could be contaminating the new grease with swarf. Another thought is do you know if the garage that have fitted the bearings have access to a hydraulic press to insert the outer race of the new bearing? If not then it only takes one slip with a hammer to mark the surface of the outer race & you will get the same problem.
Re: 2002 Kia Rio rear wheel bearing passenger side
I am no mechanic, but it may be that your rear hub is pitted inside where the bearings wore out. The bearings, even sealed break apart and all the metal you hear is grinding. So when you replace the sealed bearings the and metal inside the hub is worn.....leaving not a tight enough fit, the new ones bump around and eventually break down............you may need to look inside the hub and also on the axle and check to see if its pitted or worn out.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Call Kia with your VIN to make sure yours wasn't affected by the recall. You may be able to have that rear bearing replaced for free at Kia.
HUBCAP & OUTER BEARING REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE: 1. Remove the two (2) cross-tip locating screws on the brake drum.
2. Remove the brake drum.
3. Remove cotter pin and cover set.
4. Remove nut, claw washer, outer bearing and hub assembly.
5. Inspect inner bearing area in both hubs for any sign of moisture, corrosion, grease discoloration or contamination. If "yes" discard entire hub and replace with new assembly. If "no" proceed with outer bearing replacement below: 6. Carefully remove the outer bearing race from the hub. If the hub assembly is damaged then replace the hub assembly as a complete unit. (If inner seal is damaged while removing the outer race replace with new seal.)
7. Clean all contaminated grease from outer bearing cavity of the hub.
8. Install a new outer race into the hub using an appropriate race installation tool.
9. Apply grease MS511-33 WBG2 or equivalent to the hub assembly and the new bearing(s) especially to the shaded areas.
10. Install hub assembly, new pre-greased outer bearing and new claw washer on spindle. (Or alternatively, install entire new hub assembly, as supplied). Ensure bearings are properly seated then tighten hub/spindle nut, torque nut to 20-25 lb-ft (27-33 Nm.) Verify hub spins freely without signs of binding or excessive play.
11. Install new cover set and cotter pin; never reuse the old cotter pin.
12. Install new hub cap with Loctite # 5910(TM) or equivalent sealant to prevent moisture intrusion.
13. Install the rear brake drum using tapered locating screws.
14. Install rear wheels and torque lug nuts to proper specification. (65-79 lb-ft) (88-108 Nm, 9-11 kgm)
If you have ABS then the wheel bears are not replaceable, and the entire hub needs to be replaced as a unit. The OEM part # is 4340250G11
If you do not have ABS then they are replaceable. The inner bearing is part # 0926225061, and the outer bearing is part # 0926220069.
The rear wheel bearings are pressed in the brake drum with a spacer in between.
Remove the rear brake drum and place it on a work surface.
Tap out the opposite side with a screwdriver/punch and a hammer. (i.e. tap out the inner bearing when the outside of the brake drum is facing you, and tap out the outer bearing when the inside/brae shoe side of the drum is facing you)
Tap in the new bearings making sure that the sealed sides are facing out.
#1) Raise Car in The Rear Support it Good on Jack Stands.
#2) Remove your Wheel or Wheels if Doing Both Sides.
#3) Now Right in The Center of Your HUB you'll see a Dome Cap Remove the Cap,Now Remove the Cotter Pin, then the Spindle Nut and Washer.
#4) Now you'll pull your Hub Assembly Off ,The Outside Bearing will more or Less Fall off the Hub.But you'll need to Remove the Outer Bearing Race Its the Metal Angled Race.
#5) Before you remove the Outer Race take a Seal Remover and Remove The Grease Seal on the Inside of Hub.
#6) Now the Inner Bearing Will Come Out.You NOW Can Remove Innner and Outer Races.Use a Puch and Hammer Lightly Tap it by Working your Punch Side to Side.
#7) Now You've Remove BOTH inner and Outer Bearing Assemblies.
#8) Before you Start to Install New Races ,Get some Brake Clean and Clean The Inner Hub and the Spindle Good.
#9) Use a Bearing Race Installer Tool to Tap your New Bearing Races in.NOTE: you Don't want to Scar the Beveled Part of the Race Cause thars Where your Bearings Rotate.
#9) Races are in : Now take a Wheel Bearing Packer if you have 1 Availible: If not Pack As Much Heavy Duty Hi Temp Bearing Grease Into the Bearings. And Put some on the Spindle Were your Bearing Run on.
#10) Now Using a Seal Installer Tap your Inner Grease Seal into the Inner Hub Housing.
#11) OK Now your Ready to Put Your Hub Back on:Note: Put a Little Grease in The Domed Cap after you've Got the Hub On.
#12) DON"TS Get Grease on your Brakes or anywhere in The Brake Pad Assembly. #2) Don't Use the OLD Cotter Pin Get a New One. :#3) When Adjusting your Spindle Nut Don't Under Tighten or Over Tighten==Just Snug it down where theres no Play when you Take your Hands 1-Top=1 Bottom and Make Sure theres No Play.
Rotate The Hub During And When Tightening your Spindle Nut.
Put Hub Grease Cap on and Whell or Wheels and you Should be Good to Go.
Thanks for Using Fixya Please let me Know the Quality of my Advice/Solution by Voting Thank You From: d_hubbs
Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
Remove the hub grease cap.
Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.
Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.
Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
If it has drum brakes, you'll need to take off the center dust cap, remove the cotter pin, remove the nut and washer holding the drum on. The outer bearing should fall out, the inner bearing usually stays in the drum, due to the grease seal. With the front bearing and washer off, put the drum back on and install the nut, then pull the drum, allowing to the nut to catch the inner bearing as you pull off the drum, and that should leave the inner bearing and seal on the spindle. Pack the new bearings with grease, install the inner one in the drum and tap in the grease seal in place, but the drum back on and install the outer bearing on the spindle, the wash, nut, cotter pin and dust cover. Tighten the nut snug and turn the drum a few times and snug up the nut. Don't overtighten it.
YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE MAKE SURE ITS ON A SOLID LEVEL GROUND.THEN YOU REMOVE THE WHEELS THE BRAKE DRUM OR DISC.THEN YOU REMOVE THE NUTS THAT ATTACH THE OUTER SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE BACKING PLATETO THE AXLE SHAFT TUBE.DISCARD THE NUTS.REMOVE AXLE SHAFT FROM HOUSING.WITH AN AXLE PULLER ATTACHED TO A SLIDE HAMMER.DISCARD INNER AXLE SEALPOSITION THE AXLE SHAFT IN A VISE.REMOVE THE RETAINING RING BY DRILLING A 1/4 HOLE ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH THE RING. THEN USING A COLD CHISEL OVER THE HOLE.SPLIT THE RING.REMOVE THE BEARING WITH A ARBOR PRESS DISCARD THE SEAL AND REMOVE THE RETAINER PLATE.TO INSTALL - CLEAN THEN APPLY A THIN COATING OF WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE BEARING AND SEAL CONTACT SURFACES APPLY WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE LIPS OF THE REPLACEMENT INNER AND OUTER SEALS.INSTALL THE INNER SEAL WITH THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACING INWARD ENSURE IT IS COMPLETELY SEATED.INSTALL THE RETAINER PLATE AND THE OUTER SEAL ON THE SHAFT.ENSURE THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACES TOWARD THE AXLE SHAFT BEARING.PACK THE REPLACEMENT BEARING WITH WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT AND POSITION ON THE AXLE SHAFT PRESS INTO PLACE.PRESS A REPLACEMENT BEARING RETAINER ON THE AXLE SHAFT AGAINST THE BEARING.INSTALL THE AXLE INTO THE AXLE TUBE.POSITION AND ALIGN THE SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE AND INSTALL REPLACEMENT ATTACHING NUTS.TIGHTEN NUTS TO 32 FT LBS.INSTALL BRAKE ASSEMBLY WHEELS LOWER VECHICLE. YOU SAID REAR BEARINGS IF THIS WHAT YOU MEANT.I HOPE THIS CAN HELP.
don't have topaz. maybe escort will help guide you.
Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear
1996 Escort, Tracer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
NOTE: Wheel bearings are not serviceable and should therefore be replaced as an assembly with the wheel hub (1104).
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the hub grease cap (1131) from the wheel hub.
If equipped with disc brakes, remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552) and rear disc brake rotor (2C026). Refer to Section 06-04 for the removal procedure.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the two brake drum screws and the brake drum (1126).
Unstake the rear axle wheel hub retainer (4B477) securing the wheel hub to the rear wheel spindle (4A013). Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
drum brakes you remove rear wheel- speed sensor-grease cap-flange nut-outer bearing-brake drum-inner grease seal-inner bearing-drive the bearing races out of the drum hub.to install -install the inner and outer bearing races.apply grease to the bearings and hub cavity.then you install the inner bearing -inner grease seal-brake drum-outer bearing-flange nut torque it to 159 to 192 ft lbs. THE REAR DISC BRAKE WHEEL BEARINGS-you have to remove rear wheel -wheel speed sensor-brake caliper and rotor-rear axle hub bolts-tone the wheel with tool 09445-21000-carrier assembly-nut after unstaking it-press out the rear axle hub-remove the bearing inner race with tool 09445-21000-remove the bushings from the carrier with tools 09453-33000b and 09545-21100.to install -press in the bushings to the carrier with tools 09453-33000b and 09545-21100- press in the bearings to the hub with tool 09221-21000.tighten the flange nut to meet the concave portion of the spindle-press in the tone wheel with tool 09221-21000-torque the nut to 191 ft lbs -install the hub and bearing assembly to the backing plate and torque the bolts to 88 ft lbs-install the brake caliper and rotor.install the wheel speed sensor if equipped.install the rear wheel.TO BUY THE TOOLS TO DO THE JOB.LOOK UP KENT MOORE TOOLS ON INTERNET.