After 3 years the battery went dead . After replacing the battery the door locks now automaticaly lock when the ignition switch is turned on. The Toyota dealer could not figure it out. If I leave a door open before turning the ignition on then shut the door they will not lock. I assume there is a was to program the computer but the manual or dealer are no help
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Yes I went nuts with the dead battery problem till I found TSB_EL015-03. Seems the frist half of the production year 2003 Tundra has a problem with the tow package relay being left energized if you leave the lights in the daytime running position so that they turn off by opening the door, it will run the battery down. Toyota knows this, won't do a recall, but there is a kit you can get that is listed in the Technical Service Bulletin EL015-3. When it tell you to use a special tool to remove a pin from the large connector (red) don't bother, you will never get it out. Just cut the red wire and use a crimp tool to splice it to the kit's wire. There is no room to work it, just cut it and splice it. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/123-truck-archive/74107-2003-battery-draining.html
Determine which alternator your Toyota Tundra will need. You'll want to be sure the new alternator is compatible with your Tundra's engine. Models built from 2000 to 2004 have a 3.4 L or 4.7 L engine. Models made from 2005 to 2006 offer options for a 4.0 L or 4.7 L engine. Starting in 2007, the Tundra is available with 4.0 L, 4.7 L and 5.7 L engines.
Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Remove the gravel shield if you need to access the alternator from under the car. Remove the electrical connector and unfasten the retaining nut on the alternator terminal with a socket wrench. This will allow you to remove the battery terminal wire.
Unfasten the lock nut, pivot bolt and adjusting bolt on the alternator with a socket wrench. Remove the drive belt and take the alternator off the vehicle.
Install the new alternator assembly. Use a torque wrench to tighten the lock nut to 25 ft. lbs. and the pivot bolt to 38 ft. lbs. Attach the adjusting bolt.
Connect the electrical harness and battery terminal wire to the alternator and fasten the retaining nut to the alternator terminal with a socket wrench. Install the gravel shield if you removed it. Replace the drive belt and restore it to the proper tension. Reconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.
any type of power/voltage change seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the extended cab.
Steps to fix and it works every time.
take door panel off driver's door Disconnect the wiring attached to window and power lock control unit disconnect battery cables connect the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED))) This will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later place the key in the ignition and turn to the run position connect the wiring to the window/lock controller connect the negative cable to the battery then the positive open drivers side door turn key to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition once it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock solenoids trigger and the windows should work.
Three years and a very unhappy girlfriend who owns the truck. but she's happy now.
remove the screws that fasten the interior door panel to the door. Visually inspect the handle assembly. there will be two cables that connect the handle and lock button to the door lock assembly. I would bet that the L-shaped end of the interior door handle cable broke. The replacement is self explanatory for the handle. Google the door lock assembly which isn't as visable. Bob
havent a clue and i dont like cars cars that lock as soon as you move either,ever tried to get someone out of a burning car when the doors are locked and i couldnt find anything to break the glass before the car blew up .a woman and two kids.try teh dealer as the signal to lock the car must come from the ECU
The key won't turn in the door lock? Spray some graphite or lubricant into the lock cylinder and work it some. If you have been using the remote all these year and never the key its probably a little rusty.
Your lock motivator on driver side front is bad, replace, it should be cheap and easy to do. Goto dealer for part. It's the part that is connected to a rod that kicks back and forth to lock and unlock door.