Question about 1997 Ford Expedition

7 Answers

1997 ford expedition wont stay running?

When I try to crank it starts for about 2 seconds then shuts off. Thought it was something with the security system so I disconnected the after market system. Then tryied the factory security system. Tried to start with a key that didnt have the chip (the plain key I use when I lock keys in car) theft system worked fine'' theft'' light started flashing and shut down. So I have the same symptons but no theft light flashing. When I was tring to crank it the 1st time this happened, I accidentally tried to crank it twice making the starter engage while it was almost started. At witch time it shut down and have not been able to crank since. HELP!!! Thanks Randall

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  • 6 more comments 
  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    I have three different keys with the Pats tried all 3, I know the battery cant be dead or low on all keys.

  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    I have tried the battery disconnect method with no luck, as for the starter it still works and gets the car started with no problem, the car just shuts down after about 2 seconds. There is no "theft" light flashing when using the PATS key, only when using the plain key does it flash which makes me think the factory theft system is working properly. Any suggestions

  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    I have done some test on the ign. switch already with a volt. met everything tested ok in the acc. crank and run positions. All wiring from alt. starter, & battery are tight and look brand new. You say replace the starter/ selonoid- Can this be bad even though the vehicle starts and cranks with no problems. (just shuts down after cranking). Also the fuel pump leaking on a valve. which valve are talking about? Thanks Randall

  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    would the starter being stuck in the "engaged" position shut the vehicle down after starting? And just to add I have tried to crank this thing 30 or 40 times running test over the past couple of days can it stay stuck after all those attempts? Thanks Randall

  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    The fuel leak issue was mentioned by someone else, to check for a fuel leak. Sorry there are no fuel leaks and I can hear the fuel system "hum" or pressurizing in the acc. possition. Thanks Randall

  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    I cranked the vehicle probably 20 times before even testing the plain key, and the only reason for that was to make sure the factory theft system was working properly. Problem was before that> Thanks Randall

  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    all the fuel lines are in great shape, this suv is in almost show room condition to be over 11 years old. Nothing dry rotted- good fuel pressure. Its driving me crazy- and the thought of the dealership!!!$$$

  • randallsperk Nov 24, 2008

    disconnect small wire #1 (tan/red) tried to crank, get lights in dash, nothing else. Reconnected.

    disconnect small wire #2 (red) tried to crank, lights in dash, can hear solenoid pop to crank but nothing else. Reconnected. Thanks Randall

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7 Answers

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Ok lets first clearup some of the bad information you have recieved.
your ford has a fender mounted soloinoid so a stuck starter drive will not cause this problem.
your starter turns over so this tells me your fender mounted solonoid is doing its job.
ok it starts and runs for a couple seconds tells me that its not your security system.
this security system will not put power to your fuel pump so even get it to run for a second.
now if you will work with me to make some test and we can find your problem

find your starter solonoid on the right front fender
you will see that you have the battery cable and the starter cable on the solonoid .
also on the solonoid you will see 2 smaller wires the one wire is you signal wire that tells the solonoid to operate.
i want you to remove one of these wires and try to start the truck.
if the starter doesnt turn over the engine you need to attach that wire and unhook the other.

i want the engine to turn over
and i want to know if the engine still starts for 2 seconds
let me know and ill get you to your fix
so sorry about some of the bad answers you have recieved
later
paul

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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This is the problem with the anti thief system in the car ,it does not read the Pats key ,because you tried without pats key which activated the thief system , you need reset the system and get it done by the dealers ....

Good luck..

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • Anand Kumar
    Anand Kumar Nov 24, 2008

    Put the key in the ignition, and turn forward

    all the way just before cranking. Then within

    5 seconds, locate, press and hold in the

    valet/overide button, found under the

    dash area, (push button, spring loaded)

    until the installed LED (the blinking light)

    in your dash area goes on solid,

    and the siren chirps once.



    This should reset the alarm, and reset

    the grounded relay on the starter wire,

    allowing you to start the engine

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Stater working, your anti theft working, its about time to check your fuel pump, listen to the fuel pump run while your ignition is on but dont crank it yet, if you hear it pumping check if it is giving out enough gasoline pressure. If nothing happens, we go back to your aftermarket antitheft system, have it checked by the dealer.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • albert felizardo
    albert felizardo Nov 24, 2008

    your fuel pump outlet suppose to squirt and not just leak, check your gasoline output pressure

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Actually, rather than rushing out to buy a new starter, it's possible that the throw-out spindle is stuck in the "extended" position. Try taking the bolts to your starter loose, pull the starter free, and see if the spindle gear goes back in. If it does, there's probably nothing wrong with your starter other than the fact that is was stuck in the "engaged" position. Re-install it and try to start your truck. Hopefully, this will prove useful. Have a nice night!

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • James Allmond Nov 24, 2008

    Actually, yes. On Ford starter motors, the gear is on the end of a spindle that's run by centrifugal force. When 12V is put on the starter, the spindle kicks out of the starter one or two inches to push the gear into position to turn the flywheel. Once the motor start running, the spindle moves back into the motor housing as it slows down. The problem with this design is that sometimes, when the vehicle either doesn't start or dies, and the starter is accidentally re-engaged before the spindle fully retracts, it will lock it up to where it will do absolutely nothing until that spindle falls back into the motor housing. I only say this because I've had to free a few of them up myself over the years. If you like, you can remove the starter and run two wires from the starter directly to the battery terminals, and you can see not only that your starter probably still works, but you'll see what I'm talking about with the retractable spindle.

    As for your other problem... Does your vehicle's RPM's surge for idle erratically before it stops running? Are you able to keep it running if you lightly apply your foot to the gas pedal? If you answered yes to both of these questions, then you should probably check your Mass Airflow Sensor located on the plastic breather tube that your air filter is conected to. If that's not it, you might check your ignition control module to see that it's functioning correctly. Several years back, Ford ended up having to pay a class-action lawsuit for installing faulty control modules in nearly every model they made. The problem with them is that they are bolted onto the side of the distributor or installed in places where they tend to get quite warm. Once these modules overheat enough times, they'll start to act up. At first, they'll only make your vehicle feel like they're running a little rough...but hardly noticeable. Next, they'll make your car die occasionally for no reason at all, but most think nothing of it because it usually starts uup on the very next attempt. Before it's over with, if your motor does turn over, it'll only be for 3-5 seconds, if even that long.

    Since most parts stores offer no returns on electrical components once they have been installed, I recommend going to a junk yard and pulling one off of a wrecked vehicle. After all, you know that there's a 99% chance that the one you're getting is going to be good because the car wasn't sent to salvage because the ignition control module went out, it's there because someone wrecked it. Chances are that Ford's probably still using the same universal ignition module for most all models they make, so you'll likely have no problem locating one at a reasonable price.

    Let me know if this might shed any light on the problems that you're having. Hope it helps!

    James

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Check out the ignition switch.and the fuel pump is leaking any fuel on the valve. and ---------------- Check all of the battery terminals and cables and check the wires on the starter/selonoid, start from the battery and follow the cable out and check all conections , clean and tighten them and if it still does it the starter/selonoid is bad and needs replacement...
 

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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You may need a new starter since you say you tried to start it twice while it was cranking up. Disconnecting the security in any car will make it hard to start as it was made to do that as if some one was trying to steal it. It is a safety precaution installed in most cars with the after market security installed, and you may need to get that reset at a dealership. To try to get it started to get it to a dealership, disconnect the battery and leave it unplugged over night and plug it back up and see if it starts. If not, which it most likely will, you will need both of those done at the dealership.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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There should be a battery in the key providing power for the wireless signal for the security, this may have run low, i do know that this is the case with some makes and models, and a battery change resolves the problem

good luck

regards

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 24, 2008

    this is sounding more like fuel starvation rather than an electronic problem, if the anti-theft light is off then the keys are working fine, look under the hood


    regards


  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 24, 2008

    I think you have located the problem, you mentioned the there was a fuel leak, so you must have this looked at, when you crank the engine get someone to look under the hood where you located the leak and ask them if fuel "spirts" out, if it does you have located the problem and you can deal with it accordingly

    regards

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 24, 2008

    the engine will stink of gas and a pool will be on the floor also if this is the case

    regards again


  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 24, 2008

    ok sorry about that, there could be an air lock in the fuel lines starving the engine of fuel, try and drain some gas to test this theory

    regards


  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 24, 2008

    also check the fuel lines themselves to make sure they have not become degraded and cracked sucking air into the engine

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 24, 2008

    i think you are going to have the car taken in for a computer diagnostic, more and more cars are computerized these days and this sounds like a prime example of it, you have been through just about everything apart from that!

    regards


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