I have replaced the ECU, #7 coil, plugs and wires. The car still shakes at idle and under acceleration has no power. The mechanic that I use, now thinks that it could be either a week valve spring or a bent valve. How do I know that these will fix the problem or is it likely that this is just another guess at the problem.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: dead cylinder/ misfiring cylinder
Wow the first thing should have been a compression check i would not go any further with out doing it should have been done first before changing all those parts if it has good compression then go from there
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
scan test for misfire code/s than move spark plug and wire to other cylinders, clear and recheck misfire info, if it moved than replace plugs or wires, if it didnt change, check ignition coil for output, if ok , than check compression, if ok , than check injector circuit with noid light, and measure injector impedence, if ok back pressure test exhaust for plugged cat.
It could be couple problems: -Misfire. (Include bad injector, Coil, spark plug wire) -Lost compression due to broken valves, cylinder wall and head or gasket.
Solution: 1 -Do compression test. - If not with in specification (Too low) Need rebuild engine due to broken valve, blow out gasket or even broken cylinder wall. -All cylinder has good compression: Now need to check Spark plug, wire and all injector. Injector must be with in specification (In Ohm) Follow its manual.
In modern cars so much can go wrong to indicate an issue and a computer in the car can get confused as to what is really occurring. In most cars a misfire indicates either an incorrect firing order, shorted wires, bad plugs, or bad coil. Since you have replaced the wires and plugs we can rule those out. Im also assuming after the second engine code you pulled #2 plug and made sure it wasnt fouled with oil, was gapped correctly, and reinserted. To produce a sufficient spark for combustion the alternator sends power to a "Coil" which is in reality a storage point that then sends an amplified electrical current down the spark plug wire to the cylinder to fire the plug. If the car is truly misfiring you will notice a rough idle, fluctuating RPM's, and lack of acceleration. If you are experiencing any of these I would look at replacing the coil. If you arent experiencing any of these I would have the code cleared again and complete one drive cycle 100 miles and then have codes read again. If you still get a Misfire error some other causes known to occur with Rio's are fuel filter issues, gas caps, and fuel injector issues. Although rare, these can cause issues with the cars fuel delivery and emissions which can confuse the sensor in the ECU. I would try injector cleaner, replace the fuel filter, and gas cap . If funds are an issue then based on symptoms I would start with injector cleaner first $3, Filter $12, Gas cap $12, Coil $48 to $200+
Has anyone found the problem? My 2003 has #3 cyclinder misfire and I have replaced the plugs and wires. It runs rough at idle but smooths out at highway speed. Anyone have any knowledge on this? This sounds like a common problem.
OK IS THERE IS ACTUALLY A mis-FIRE THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE SHAKING DURING IDLE AND ACCELERATION IF IT IS, here is what you do get a noid light this used to check injector pulse. This vehicle will set a misfire code if injector is not functioning efficiently or bad. A noid light is like a test light bulb can be bought at almost any auto store.SART UP VEHICLE AND DISCONNECT THE INJECTOR WIRE TO THE CYLINDER THAT'S mis-FIRING AND CONNECT noid LIKE TO ELECTRICAL PLUG. DO THIS ONE CYLINDER AT A TIME. The nod light should have a steady flickering light/consistent pattern of flickering. If there is Gap/irratic flickering or no flickering BINGO you have found your problem. NO FLICKERING= bad/broken injector wire if not broken BAD COMPUTER/ECU. IF THE FLICKERING IS CONSISTENT /GOOD = BAD INJECTOR..replace injector and solve the misfire problem. However is all the components tested are ALL GOOD. Then the only other SOURCE for a mis-fire is the camshaft sensor that provides reference for injector pulse and the crankshaft sensor provide reference for Spark pulse. JUST ON A LAST NOTE: make sure all oils are getting electrical power to them. Good Luck I know this is alot of info at once. Contact me if you need more help. Thanks fr using FIX YA