Question about 2006 Chrysler 300

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Dead cylinder/ misfiring cylinder

I have replaced the ECU, #7 coil, plugs and wires. The car still shakes at idle and under acceleration has no power. The mechanic that I use, now thinks that it could be either a week valve spring or a bent valve. How do I know that these will fix the problem or is it likely that this is just another guess at the problem.

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  • sully_70 Nov 23, 2008

    But if after the compression test is done and is good would the week spring come into the factor if that is the case?

  • sully_70 Nov 24, 2008

    No there was a code that came up saying that cylinder 7 was not working so at that time the impression that was given to me was that it was the ECU because of the ability to switch between 8 cylinders to 4 cylinders. So the job of switching out the ECU was done. The plugs and wires were done at this time. For a short time everything seamed perfect and then bamm, it was back. Next the coil for # 7 cylinder was replaced and the wires and plug for #7 cylinder were also replaced. Now this is were I am. I do not think that the compression test was done and that definately needs to be. i really appreciate your help. Thanks sully

  • sully_70 Nov 24, 2008

    Thanks I will try that



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Wow the first thing should have been a compression check i would not go any further with out doing it should have been done first before changing all those parts if it has good compression then go from there

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

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  • no if it is a weak spring you will have bad compresion on that cylinder did he do a cylinder nock down test to se what cylinder it is?

  • do you have dual exhaust if you do start the car go to the back by the exhaust the side that is missing hold the dollar in both hands like your looking at it put it by the exhaust pipe about a half inch away if the exhaust pipe tries to **** it in and the dollar makes a poping noise you have a sticky exhaust valve

  • As the car is missing have your mechanic unplug fuel injector on the cylinder that is missing. If there is no change in the way it's running, then it has a bad injector.



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No power accelerating and shaking bad

scan test for misfire code/s than move spark plug and wire to other cylinders, clear and recheck misfire info, if it moved than replace plugs or wires, if it didnt change, check ignition coil for output, if ok , than check compression, if ok , than check injector circuit with noid light, and measure injector impedence, if ok back pressure test exhaust for plugged cat.

Mar 29, 2014 | Hyundai Sonata Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a reoccurring problem with a flashing check engine light flashing. the code always indicates an engine misfire. I have replaced all coils, wire set, plugs, O2 sensor and cat. The problem...

You need to know if it IS misfiring. Does it shake at idle?
Typically I recommend experienced techs deal with misfires.
the code should say P030x, with the X being the number of the cylinder it believes is misfiring (No, computers arent always right about which cylinder. USUALLY, but not always.)
Lets assume it says CYLINDER 3. (Only your scanner will tell you for sure, 3 is an example we are using for now). You could try disconnecting cylinder 3 ignition coil plug at idle. On a good cylinder that is NOT misfiring, you will hear and feel the engine run rougher and slow down when you unplug its coil or injector. Thats because it WAS contributing until you unplugged it. Your v6 engine idles at say 600rpm warm when its running good. If you unplug any 1 cylinder, youve lost 1/6 of the engine output (actually more due to dead weight drag from that cylinder, but not important for now). SO, if you find the cylinder it says is misfiring, and it loses rpm when unplugged, its probably doing SOMETHING or trying to. If you unplug it and zero change heard or felt, that cylinder is likely dead.

Heres where it gets hard. Could be literally dozens of things that take some familiarity and experience to ID. bad spark, bad fuel mix, bad spark plug, oil fouling, low compression, leaky valves, blown headgasket, leaking intake, EGR leaking at idle, wrong weight of motor oil (some cars) and the list goes on. An experienced drivability tech can usually narrow it down or find it in 1 hour or less. If you are learning as you go, you could take many hours, and still miss things that trained eyes and ears wont.

Start by figuring out which cylinder. If it idles smooth (No shake at idle, and if you clear code and start it and let it idle the light never comes back till you drive over 75 as you stated), then I strongly recommend a professional check it.
If it idles rough and you know which cylinder, you can try taking out that coil and spark plug if you know how, moving them to another cylinder that isnt misfiring, then clear the code and drive it and see if the same code resets or a new code for the other cylinder sets. If the code is the same, you have deeper issues not worth explaining here.
If the code moves to the new cylinder, then 1 or both of the 2 parts you changed are likely at fault. You can replace them an very likely fix the issue.
Again, I strongly recommend professional help. But that may get you started.

Jan 04, 2018 | 2001 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

Cylinder 3 misfire

Have a repair shop that has the proper test equipment
& know how- solve the issues

Watch some You Tube Video,I know you will
learn as much as your willing to spend time- on that site

Dec 12, 2012 | 2002 Volvo V70

1 Answer

Code p0301 - cylinder 1 misfire

need to do compression test first then if ok swop coils around see if fault transfers to another cylinder then its information at sensors and ecu eg volts amps earths etc

Jun 06, 2012 | 2005 Saab 9-2X

1 Answer

Took my car to have check engine light checked. It said misfire cylinder 2. I replaced the spark plug wires and spark plugs and it still says misfire cylinder 2. What is the next step? Thanks Steve

In modern cars so much can go wrong to indicate an issue and a computer in the car can get confused as to what is really occurring. In most cars a misfire indicates either an incorrect firing order, shorted wires, bad plugs, or bad coil. Since you have replaced the wires and plugs we can rule those out. Im also assuming after the second engine code you pulled #2 plug and made sure it wasnt fouled with oil, was gapped correctly, and reinserted. To produce a sufficient spark for combustion the alternator sends power to a "Coil" which is in reality a storage point that then sends an amplified electrical current down the spark plug wire to the cylinder to fire the plug. If the car is truly misfiring you will notice a rough idle, fluctuating RPM's, and lack of acceleration. If you are experiencing any of these I would look at replacing the coil. If you arent experiencing any of these I would have the code cleared again and complete one drive cycle 100 miles and then have codes read again. If you still get a Misfire error some other causes known to occur with Rio's are fuel filter issues, gas caps, and fuel injector issues. Although rare, these can cause issues with the cars fuel delivery and emissions which can confuse the sensor in the ECU. I would try injector cleaner, replace the fuel filter, and gas cap . If funds are an issue then based on symptoms I would start with injector cleaner first $3, Filter $12, Gas cap $12, Coil $48 to $200+

Jun 06, 2010 | 2001 Kia Rio

1 Answer

Having a problem with my 1994 eagle talon. no

shake at idle means u have a cylinder misfire or low commpression, here are causes of misfires most commonly seen.

The most common misfire causes on the cars I've worked on have been:
  1. Spark plugs
  2. Spark plug wires
  3. Ignition coil
  4. Fuel injector
  5. Wiring to fuel injector
  6. Timing Belt
  7. Vacuum leak or stuck open EGR
  8. Contaminated fuel or bad fuel pump
  9. Weak compression
  10. Blown head gasket

May 30, 2010 | 1994 Eagle Talon

9 Answers

Misfire #3 cylinder

Has anyone found the problem? My 2003 has #3 cyclinder misfire and I have replaced the plugs and wires. It runs rough at idle but smooths out at highway speed. Anyone have any knowledge on this? This sounds like a common problem.

Sep 09, 2009 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2002 hyundai santa fe 2.7 multi misfire number 2and 5 cylinders

OK IS THERE IS ACTUALLY A mis-FIRE THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE SHAKING DURING IDLE AND ACCELERATION IF IT IS, here is what you do get a noid light this used to check injector pulse. This vehicle will set a misfire code if injector is not functioning efficiently or bad. A noid light is like a test light bulb can be bought at almost any auto store.SART UP VEHICLE AND DISCONNECT THE INJECTOR WIRE TO THE CYLINDER THAT'S mis-FIRING AND CONNECT noid LIKE TO ELECTRICAL PLUG. DO THIS ONE CYLINDER AT A TIME. The nod light should have a steady flickering light/consistent pattern of flickering. If there is Gap/irratic flickering or no flickering BINGO you have found your problem. NO FLICKERING= bad/broken injector wire if not broken BAD COMPUTER/ECU. IF THE FLICKERING IS CONSISTENT /GOOD = BAD INJECTOR..replace injector and solve the misfire problem. However is all the components tested are ALL GOOD. Then the only other SOURCE for a mis-fire is the camshaft sensor that provides reference for injector pulse and the crankshaft sensor provide reference for Spark pulse. JUST ON A LAST NOTE: make sure all oils are getting electrical power to them. Good Luck I know this is alot of info at once. Contact me if you need more help. Thanks fr using FIX YA

Jan 08, 2009 | 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

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