Question about 1993 Geo Prizm

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Where is the water pump on 93 geo prism, small engine

I think my water pump is done.  The radiatior feeder hose gets hot when the engine warms up, but the return hose to the radiator stays cold, like the fluid is not getting pushed through the motor.  I am guessing that it is a faulty pump.  let me know if that is a correct diagnosis and where the pump is located

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You're right. it could very well be your water pump, but I would suggest replacing your thermostat before trying to tackle replacing your water pump. However, if your thermostat turns out not to be the problem, I have enclosed step-by-step instructions for removal and re-installation of your water pump. Hope this proves to be helpful. Have a nice evening!

Geo Prism Water Pump Removal/Installation

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine coolant from the radiator.
  2. Remove all drive belts.
  3. Support the engine using suitable equipment. Place a wooden block between the jack and engine. Remove the right engine mount and insulator.
  4. Remove the No. 3 (upper) and No. 2 (middle) timing belt covers.
  5. If equipped with power steering, raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front transaxle mount. Lower the vehicle, remove the cooling fan assembly.
  6. Remove the mounting bolt for the dipstick tube; remove the tube and dipstick. Immediately plug the hole in the block to prevent fluid from contaminating the oil.
  7. Remove the electrical connector for the coolant temperature sending unit.
  8. Remove the 2 nuts securing the engine coolant pipe to the cylinder block.
  9. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the coolant inlet pipe from the vehicle.
  10. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the coolant inlet hose from the water pump.
  11. If equipped with power steering, raise the engine and remove the mounting bolts for the water pump. Remove the water pump and O-ring from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Install a NEW O-ring to the vehicle. Install the water pump and torque the retaining bolts EVENLY to 11 ft. lbs.
  2. Lower the engine if necessary, and connect the coolant hose to the water pump. Reconnect the engine coolant inlet pipe to the vehicle and secure to hose with clamp and secure to block with 2 nuts. Tighten the engine coolant inlet pipe nuts to 11 ft. lbs.
  3. Connect the electrical connector for the coolant temperature sending unit.
  4. Install the oil guide tube and torque the retaining bolt to 84 inch lbs. Install the oil level indicator to the guide tube.
  5. Install the radiator fan assembly, if necessary.
  6. If equipped with power steering, raise and safely support the vehicle. Install the front transaxle mount. Torque the through bolt nut to 64 ft. lbs. and 2 mount nuts to 47 ft. lbs.
  7. Lower the vehicle (if necessary) and install the No. 3 (upper) and No. 2 (middle) timing belt covers.
  8. Support the engine using suitable equipment. Install the right engine mount and insulator.
  9. Remove all engine lifting equipment.
  10. Install and adjust all drive belts.
  11. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

  • Ynnis888 Dec 30, 2010

    Wouldn't it be cheaper if I just buy a new car? I don't mind working on engines, but this sounds like a job for a repair station and they are not cheap anymore.



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While it doesn't seem likely, if you've changed, or had the thermostat changed.... I'd say you got a faulty thermostat. I am curious as to what your temperature gauge says the temperature of the engine and coolant is.. If your gauge is showing hot, I can think of two more possibilities... the water pump isn't pumping right... and, if the water pump isn't working right, the problem can be a cracked head or block, which can cause an airlock in the coolant system. Check the coolant or radiator cap.

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Good idea on the fans. Keep it that way till you fix the problem. Won't hurt anything, just may shorten fan life-but a new fan is much less expensive than a new engine.
Watch the temp gauge on your dash. The thermostat should open as it warms up, before the gauge gets up to half-way. You can tell when the thermostat starts to open-the upper radiator hose will start feeling hot, or at least start warming up. You will get a rough idea if the thermostat is working properly. By the time engine is at normal operating temperature, the thermostat should be fully open and the hose will feel quite warm. If the hose is still cool when engine is at operating temp., the thermostat may be opening too late, as in wrong thermostat. Not very likely, but always possible.
How did the shop check the head gaskets? Did they do a compression test? With new pump, new radiator, new hoses...should be good, but still runs hot? Any bubbling in your overflow tank? You may want to consider having a block test done, where they check for exhaust gases in the coolant. That would be a head gasket leak causing hot running condition. Maybe the shop checked the gaskets this way, or maybe they missed something? About the only other thing I could think of would be a coolant circulation problem inside the engine, a restriction or something, that an engine flush might clear up. A shop could do a reverse flush of the engine if there is a circulation problem.
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