There's heat,when the temp gauge climbs to the 1/2 mark at idle, but the gauge drops to the 1/4 mark when driving, and the heat temp of course drops. We had the system back flushed. I checked the vac doors and mechanics, they are working. The top and bottom radiator hoses are hot, also the hoses to heat core are hot. I released some coolant from the bleed screw, to see if there was a vapor lock. I also checked coolant / antifreeze mixture, it's at -43.
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First question is what constitutes "overheating". Since the car has been parked for years, the thermostat could be sticking closed. The cooling system could have air pockets and need to be bled. The water pump may be corroded inside and not pumping enough volume. If the gauge goes above half way, the fans should start up. But half way should be more or less normal, not hot yet. I would look at flow problems first, beginning with removing the thermostat and driving it without one for a few days. Also check and see if there is a process to bleed the cooling system of air.
Sounds like your electric fan is not kicking in when the engine is hot and there is no ram air going through the radiator. Warm up the car and let it idle stationary, watching the temp. gauge and look to see if the fan kicks in when the temp gauge reaches about the 3/4 mark. If it does not there is a problem with the thermostatic switch or its relay.
WELL YOU NEED TO DRAIN COOLANT LEVEL BELOW THERMOSTAT LEVEL.YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT MAF SENSOR LOOSEN AIRDUCT 2 LARGE CLAMPS LOOSEN REMOVE 4 SCREWS TO AIR FILTER COVER LIFT UP REMOVE COVER. THEN REMOVE AIR FILTER AND HOUSING, FIRST DISCONNECT MAF SENSOR.YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT THROTTLE CABLE AND SHIFT CABLE.YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT REMOVE THROTTLE BODY COOLANT HOSES DISCONNECT IDLE SPEED CONTROL VALVE CONNECTOR AND DISCONNECT TPS SENSOR CONNECTOR. THEN REMOVE THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY. YOU NEED TO BUY NEW THROTTLE BODY COOLANT HOSES AND NEW THROTTLE BODY GASKET FOLLOW TOP COOLANT HOSE TO ENGINE BLOCK.NOW YOU SEE CAN AND REMOVE THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT.BESURE TO HAVE EXTRA COOLANT ON HAND.BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM WHEN DONE.TO BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM REMOVE RADIATOR CAP ON OVERFLOW JUG.THEN OPEN BLEED SCREW ON THE WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE PIPE JUST A LITTLE.POUR COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG UNTIL LEVEL STOP DROPPING.STOP AT COLD MARK ON JUG.CLOSE BLEEDER SCREW ON WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE PIPE.CRANK VECHICLE CHECK FOR LEAKS. START UP ENGINE LET IDLE FEW MINUTES THEN CHECK COOLANT LEVEL ADD MORE UNTIL UNTIL LEVEL STOP DROPPING.PUT RADIATOR CAP BACK ON OVERFLOW RESERVOIR. LET ENGINE IDLE WATCH COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE.WHEN GAUGE START CLIMBING. TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT FEW MINUTES TAKE A LARGE RAG OPEN RADIATOR JUST A LITTLE YOU HEAR HISS NOISE.WHEN PRESSURE STABILIZE DONT GET SCALDED BECAREFUL.OPEN CAP LITTLE MORE.IF COOLANT PRESSURE STILL BOILS OUT WAIT 20 MINUTES ADD MORE COOLANT TO RADIATOR OVER FLOW WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING.PUT RADIATOR CAP BACK ON START VECHICLE UP LET IDLE UNTIL THERMOSTAT OPEN. THEN FEEL TOP RADIATOR HOSE FEELS HOT THERMOSTAT OPEN WATCH TEMPERATURE GAUGE.IF GAUGE TEMP START CLIMBING TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT A WHILE.CHECK AND ADD MORE COOLANT.WHEN THE ENGINE CAN IDLE TEMP GAUGE STOP CLIMBING YOU HAVE BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.KEEP CHECK ON COOLANT LEVEL.
Make sure you uhave a good mixture of antifreeze it make the boiling point higher as well as the freeze point lower. Check the fans let it idle turn on the ac and wait and watch.If it gets hot and No fan comes on start there / thermastat The t-start should be open around 160-180 degrees you should notice it get to the threshhold then drop 10 degrees / heads check for water in the oil oil in the water .See if you can get a temp gun if every thing else checks good before you get into the wiring.
your heater core or the hoses going to it are bad. get them replaced and i gaurantee this will solve your problem. if the antifreeze is coming from the very front of the car than you have a bad radiator or hoses in the front of the car.