- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It's not worth it to fix the axel, it is wise to replace the axels
by jacking up the car secure the car with jack stands, then remove the wheels, the big center nut of the axel and the lower bolts on the ball joint, then pry the lower control arm down and pull the hubb aside. Now u could remove the axel easily, if stuck take a hammer and tap it lightly, remove it, replace with the new but make sure both ends r lubed with grease.
jack up vehicle, remove wheel, remove split pin from hub nut, remove nut, remove lower ball joint nut & separate ball joint, lever lower arm down, pull hub forward while pushing cv joint in wards through hub, remove cv gaiter clips and slide back on shaft, hold shaft firmly and knock cv joint off with hammer, pack new joint with grease, and place on shaft with nut on threads carefully knock on with hammer, re-fit parts in reverse order
hiya if you are sure that the n/s/f wheel bearing/cv joint/ and suspension joint/s are sound ? may i suggest that you check the engine mountingson the n/s front +rear ? from your symptoms it sounds very much like as you accelerate the engine is tilting due to the metallastic mounting has perished thus the juddering is engine moving along with driveshaft especially cornering ? you will have to check physically and visually the mountings or pop into local quick fit and ask to check for normally no charge? for inspecting this is common fault easilly missed on a lot of cars with f/w/drive hope this helps ?