Question about 2002 Ford E350

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SNAPPED WATER PUMP BOLTS

I HAVE A 1993 FORD E-350 15 PASSENGER VAN 5.8 LITER   THAT I ATTEMPTED TO REMOVE THE WATER PUMP SO I COULD REPLACE THE PUMP AND THERMOSTAT AND I SNAPPED EVERY BOLT.  THEY APPARENTLY WERE ALL  ROTTED AND SNAPPED EASILY MY QUESTION IS, IS IT EASIER TO NOW REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER WITH THE PUMP STILL ATTACHED TO IT OR DO THE PUMP BOLTS GO ALL THE WAY THRU THE ENGINE COVER TO THE ENGINE BLOCK .ARE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER BOLTS SEPERATE FROM THE WATER PUMP BOLTS  AND ALSO I KNOW YOU DONT HAVE A CRYSTAL BALL BUT WILL THE ENGINE COVER BOLTS BE IN THE SAME STAGE OF ROT AS THE WATER PUMP BOLTS WERE WHAT PROCEDURES CAN BE FOLLOWED TO MINIMIZE SNAPPING MORE BOLTS  . ALSO CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT THE DIAMETER OF BOLTS THAT ARE USED IN THE WATER PUMP AND ENGINE COVER SO I CAN GET MY EASY OUTS FOR THE REPAIR

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  • gs45572 Dec 02, 2008

    Hello jallmondjr  Thank you for your help with my water pump project to date  the job went well as far as drilling out snapped water pump bolts and finding replacement bolts  the job is all finished and put back together.  that being said it seems I have one more hurdle to jump.  When I started the van for the first time the serpentine dive belt smoked like crazy and the AMP light is on the dash. I removed the belt and checked that all my pulleys were free spinning and I also checked belt alignment before I removed it and it seemed fine . I know you dont have a crystal ball but what do you think my issue might be . the truck has a belt tensioner that seems to function correctly as the belt seems really tight . is it an alignment issue  I will stop typing now and letyou do your thing  thanks  Jamie S 

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Unfortunately, I've had this exact same issue with my F-150 5.0L... The pump bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block. However, if you're lucky, once you finally do get the timing cover off(which will have to be removed at this point), you might have enough bolt hanging out of the block to get a grip on and possibly back the rest of the way out. There is a penetrating spray on the market called PB Blaster that is the very best at freeing up seized bolts. Spray it down really good and give it a day or so to penetrate. Not too sure of what size of easy-out you'd need, but I ended up having to drill mine out and putting in helo-coils. It's a real pain, but aside from junking the block, it's about the only option available. One more thing...if you do get all of your bolts out, before trying to put them back in, make sure to take an air compressor and blow out all of the bolt holes as they tend to get a lot of corrosion inside that will, 99% of the time, cause even more snapped bolts when trying to reinstall your new water pump, as this is what happened to me. Hope this helps and from one guy who's had to deal with this headache to another getting ready to...good luck, and no matter what you might begin to think, a gallon of gas and a match are not a better way of dealing with it, though it will sound tempting. Try to have a nice day!

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

  • James Allmond Dec 03, 2008

    The only thing that immediately comes to mind is the possibility that the belt was routed incorrectly and one of the pulleys was working against the others. As long as you say that all of the pulleys are moving freely and appear to be visibly aligned, that's the only possibility that I can fathom. Alignment may be the cause, but that really wouldn't explain the squealing and the amp light coming on. You might check the alignment and play of your alternator, and re-check the play in the new water pump just to make sure that they were reinstalled straight and flush, but my guess is most likely the routing of the belt. Hope this helps and let me know how things go.

    James


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