I HAVE A 1993 FORD E-350 15 PASSENGER VAN 5.8 LITER THAT I ATTEMPTED TO REMOVE THE WATER PUMP SO I COULD REPLACE THE PUMP AND THERMOSTAT AND I SNAPPED EVERY BOLT. THEY APPARENTLY WERE ALL ROTTED AND SNAPPED EASILY MY QUESTION IS, IS IT EASIER TO NOW REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER WITH THE PUMP STILL ATTACHED TO IT OR DO THE PUMP BOLTS GO ALL THE WAY THRU THE ENGINE COVER TO THE ENGINE BLOCK .ARE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER BOLTS SEPERATE FROM THE WATER PUMP BOLTS AND ALSO I KNOW YOU DONT HAVE A CRYSTAL BALL BUT WILL THE ENGINE COVER BOLTS BE IN THE SAME STAGE OF ROT AS THE WATER PUMP BOLTS WERE WHAT PROCEDURES CAN BE FOLLOWED TO MINIMIZE SNAPPING MORE BOLTS . ALSO CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT THE DIAMETER OF BOLTS THAT ARE USED IN THE WATER PUMP AND ENGINE COVER SO I CAN GET MY EASY OUTS FOR THE REPAIR
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Re: SNAPPED WATER PUMP BOLTS
Unfortunately, I've had this exact same issue with my F-150 5.0L... The pump bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block. However, if you're lucky, once you finally do get the timing cover off(which will have to be removed at this point), you might have enough bolt hanging out of the block to get a grip on and possibly back the rest of the way out. There is a penetrating spray on the market called PB Blaster that is the very best at freeing up seized bolts. Spray it down really good and give it a day or so to penetrate. Not too sure of what size of easy-out you'd need, but I ended up having to drill mine out and putting in helo-coils. It's a real pain, but aside from junking the block, it's about the only option available. One more thing...if you do get all of your bolts out, before trying to put them back in, make sure to take an air compressor and blow out all of the bolt holes as they tend to get a lot of corrosion inside that will, 99% of the time, cause even more snapped bolts when trying to reinstall your new water pump, as this is what happened to me. Hope this helps and from one guy who's had to deal with this headache to another getting ready to...good luck, and no matter what you might begin to think, a gallon of gas and a match are not a better way of dealing with it, though it will sound tempting. Try to have a nice day!
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TO REPLACE WATER PUMP.REMOVE THE RADIATOR SHROUD HALVES.REMOVE FAN CLUTCH AND FAN.YOU NEED FAN CLUTCH WRENCH AND A FAN CLUTCH PULLEY HOLDER.YOU CAN RENT TOOLS AT AUTO ZONE OR BUY THEM AT A AUTO PARTS STORE.THE FAN CLUTCH BOLTS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD. REMOVE THEM BY TURNING CLOCKWISE.BEFORE INSTALLING NEW WATER PUMP COAT BOTH SIDES OF WATER PUMP GASKET WITH GASKET SEALER.TORQUE WATER PUMP BOLTS 18 FT LBS.
Removing and changing the water pump on a 2000 Grand Caravan should only be done if your van has a 3.3 liter or 3.8 liter V6 engine. On any other engine types, including four-cylinder engines, you must remove the timing belt from the engine to access the water pump, which is a dangerous task that can mess up the engine if attempted by an amateur. The procedure is as follows:-------------The water pump is responsible for sending the engine coolant to the engine.First of all remove the serpentine belt then remove the plastic cove on the passenger side behind the wheel. You will have to remove the pulley. Once the pulley is removed unbolt the water pump and remove it. Clean the surfaces and install new pump. Draining the coolant and replacing it is advisable.Drain the engine coolant, twisting and removing the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator -------------------Thats it.
1) Drain coolant 2) Raise and support vehicle 3) Remove the passenger side wheel and inner splash guard 4) Remove A/C compressor attaching bolts and position aside 5) Place a 1" wood block between the crankshaft and water pump pulley and remove water pump bolts and allow pulley to hang on pump hub 6) Remove water pump attaching bolts, then remove water pump and discard gasket 7) Reverse procedure to install
1) Drain coolant
2) Raise and support vehicle
3) Remove the passenger side wheel and inner splash guard
4) Remove A/C compressor attaching bolts and position aside
5) Place a 1" wood block between the crankshaft and water pump pulley and remove water pump bolts and allow pulley to hang on pump hub
6) Remove water pump attaching bolts, then remove water pump and discard gasket
7) Reverse procedure to install
1 disconnect battery ground cable
2 drain cooling system
3 on models with a/c, proceed as follows:
a discharge a/c system
b loosen upper and lower compressor bolts and remove compressor drive belt
c remove a/c line from top of radiator shroud
4 remove water pump drive belt
5 remove reservoir tank from radiator bracket
6 remove radiator shroud and fan/clutch from vehicle
7 remove waterpump pulley from waterpump
8 remove timing tensioner and timing belt
9 remove dipstick tube
10 remove alternator mounting bracket at water pump
11 remove water pump mounting bolts and water pump
12 reverse procedure to install, using new gasket and rubber seal
The best place to go would most likely be your local for dealership's parts and service dept. Granted, most auto parts stores tend to stock these bolts, but from time to time, I've found that they're not an exace match for the original factory equipment. You can usually rest assured that when you go to the dealership, you'll probably be getting bolts that came out of the same batch that was used to build these vehicles at the factor, ending the worry of wrong-sized bolts and cheap steel. Not only that, we're talking about a few bolts, so you shouldn't have to worry about it costing very much. Hope this proves to be useful and have a great night!
A manual will have pictures and everything.
Just replaced mine. Five bolts in bracket holding tension idler, A/C
compressor (if applicable) and power steering pump must be removed to
access 3 bolts in water pump. Just push aside enough to access
remaining bolts. Email at firstname.lastname@example.org if additional info is
needed. Also, diagram serpentine belt before removing. Took me at least
15 attempts and 20 minutes to figure out