While driving turned around in driveway back out onto road ,put into drive would not move.everything normal except clicking sound and car will not move front whells will not engage even when put in reverse or drive
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No. Tires won't 'knock'. Loose wheels could but, more than likely, Some part of your car's suspension is not right or is giving you signs it is worn. ie A worn tie-rod end will 'knock' when you go over a pot hole or up onto or down a curb or ramp as with your driveway. Cars generally emit these sounds and you should heed this as a warning. Have this checked by someone who knows how.
Using an automotive dolly can be risky, If the vehicle is front wheel drive then dolly the front, if it is rear wheel drive then dolly the rear. If it is 4 wheel drive and late model with no neutral shift position dolly the front and remove the rear drive shaft at the rear axle. If the vehicle is older 4 wheel drive with neutral selection for the transfer case then simply shift to neutral and dolly the front axle. Most transmissions whither automatic or manual will be damaged if the engine is not running while the vehicle is in motion.
the engines crankshaft or the transmissions input shaft must turn to lubricate the transmission unless the transmission is automatic and has a rear pump that can lubricate the transmission if the transmissions output shaft is turned in normal rotation for forward direction of travel. This is the only way to to assure there is no damage to the drive train. Be sure to follow all recommended tie down procedures. remember the dolly rotates under the vehicle so one or the other of the wheels must be able to move forward and back to allow for corners. Try to always choose a path that allows forward direction unless you are an expert driver with experience and able to back a farm wagon type axle trailer (like covered wagon) going backward will be a challenge even for someone experienced pulling a bumper pull trailer.
To get the vehicle onto a dolly have some friends help push or use a cable puller to move the vehicle onto the dolly.
Warn Hubs Installation A truck or SUV with a four-wheel drive suspension uses locking hubs on the front wheels to engage or disengage the front axle shafts from the hubs. This way, you can drive the truck normally with just rear-wheel drive, or engage four-wheel drive mode when you want to drive off-road. These hubs can wear out, and one improvement is to install a set of Warn hubs. Installing a set of Warn hubs takes about an hour. 1.Park the truck and put on the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck with the jack and put the jack stands under the front axle. Take off the front wheels with the tire iron and put them to the side. 2.Disengage the locking hubs using your hands by turning the knob on the hubs. Remove the snap rings holding the hub locks in place with the snap-ring pliers. Pull the hub off the axle. 3.Install the lock ring wheel from the Warn hub kit in the axle with the factory snap ring and the snap-ring pliers. 4.Make sure the Warn locking cap dial is turned to the "Free' position. Install the locking cap onto the lock ring wheel and hub body with a hex-head key. Reinstall the front wheels with the tire iron and lower the vehicle off the jack stands with the jack. Thank you for using FixYa. Hope this will help your problem and don't forget to rate me.thanks, Reymond
Your front differential is what's called an "open" style. It's exactly the same as any differential found in any vehicle with non positraction rear wheel drive. In that type of diff, one wheel is always connected to the driveline through the small spider gears inside the carrier. When you are driving and there is power being applied through the driveshaft, power goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction, which is actually a bad way to do that but it seems to work fairly well except on ice or in mud. Positraction differentials put fairly equal power to both wheels but you can't use them in the front end because they would make steering difficult. When you are cornering, the wheel on the outside of the turn needs to turn faster to keep up. A posi makes that difficult, a "locked rear" makes it near impossible. That's why you don't see them except in specialized off road vehicles (not in the front anyway). The component that makes your front diff move the vehicle is the transfer case. On many GC's they use a quadratrack unit. That kind used a heat sensitive fluid coupler inside that locks up when the rear wheels start to slip. Those units can be identified by their shifter which only has three positions. Technically it's always in 4 wheel drive but it only comes on during slippage. The other manual kind has four positions and is engaged manually. Some early Cherokees (not GC's) and many wranglers use a vacuum diff lock up. So unless someone put one in there (lots of mods would be necessary) you have a normal open diff there and that's just how they act when off the ground. If you cannot turn the wheel assembly at all, then there's a high probability that the hub bearing has frozen or the brake caliper piston is stuck in the applied position. One interesting fact is that no vehicle is really four wheel drive...most only have one wheel in front and one in back actually moving the vehicle. If you are equipped with a rear posi diff, then essentially you have 3 wheel drive (with the exception of modified vehicles as I mentioned).
Chock the front tires, loosen up the lug nutes on the rear tires, jack the rear end up, uncap the adjuster dust caps on the back of the rear drums, either use a brake spoon or straight blade screwdriver and turn the star adjuster while spinning the wheel until you have no resistance. If this does not work remove the rear tires and hit the sides of the drums with a small sledge hammer or hammer to loosen & break up the rust, When you get movement on the drum, hit it betweeen the studs. Be patient, this may take some time.