I have a 1967 mustang straight 6, 3 speed. Just rebuilt origonal autolite one barrel carb. I had it running and tuned pretty good, but now on acceleration shifting from second to third it just flat cuts out. It will stay running at a very low idle. But if you give it any gas it trys to die. No noticble gas smell (flooding) I cant tell if its starving for air or fuel. sound familuar to anyone?
I also have a 67, straight 6 w/3on the floor. I had a similar problem, it was the accelerator pump in the carb. If the acc. pump goes bad you use all the fuel in the float bowl before the pump can refill it. Just another thought
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The choke linkage is not properly hooked up or adjusted. The throttle linkage is not adjusted properly or there isn't enough vacuum. The choke linkage has a tab that prevents the 4 barrels from opening when the choke is engaged. There is a tab on the throttle linkage from the front 2 barrels that will engage the secondaries when they rotate past a certain point. Vacuum opens the top plates on the secondaries.
Well no computer (Thats a relief) fuel or spark someone getting there a little late. Do a visual inspection of wires, plugs,rotor cap ( if applicable, )points and gaps. Anything that lookjs worn replace. if that doesn't work then do a cylinder balance test just to make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Then take it to a place that does scope testing and they will be able to tell you which one of the wire or plugs is delaying on you.
The vacuum comes from the intake manifold and ported vacuum comes from the carb above the throttle plate. You might have a leak at the carb gasket or intake manifold gasket. Spray some car cleaner or WD40 around the gaskets and vacuum lines while the engine is running and when you hear the idle speed up, you've found the leak. You will need to install the rebuilt carb first, and you should tighten any loose intake manifold bolts. Don't overtighten them. Also check the EGR valve because it could cause the engine to stall at idle. A good tune up might be needed too. I've seen some of those engines run real rough when the ignition timing was off.
The OEM carb on this model was Motorcraft, and you can get the rebuild kit from Ford or you can look up the model number either in Chilton's manual for that car, or maybe find another (kinda hard nowadays) carb in a junkyard and maybe it still has the tag. You can also research the specs for that motor on a web page of Ford or 2nd party auto parts dealers. I'd bet most mechanics over 40 years old could start you off in the right direction, too.
hesitating when from a standing start, then running well can be caused by having too big a jet size. I dropped the size of the jets on my Holley 4V, and it solved that part of the problem. The accelerator pump will push in too much gas, momentarily "drowning"the engine til you get enuff air to mix with the gas.