I am replacing a couple of studs and I cant remove the bearing on the back wheel. I removed the 4 bolt but the bearing is still stuck there. If I dont remove it I cant slide the stud in, there is not enough room.
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Make sure all tires are chalked,put vehicle in neutral,turn drum till it has a clear spot to knock stud out,use hammer and wooden block,don't use metal punch,can cause burr on end of stud and not want to come out of hole.Both tires on back may need lifted in air to turn.
To remove the broken stud use a punch and drive it out with a hammer back towards the backing plate. BY turning the axle around you will find a position or you may have to remove a brake shoe to help with the installation of the new stud. When you have it in place use larger nuts and pull it into place with the stud nut.. You may not be able to simply put the stud straight in but may have to start a bit of an angle and turn the axle to allow the stud to feed in.
jack up vehicle, remove tire. knock out old stud with a hammer and punch. put new stud in from back if need be. to draw it up tight.use a lug nut with something under it so when you tighten the nut it brings the stud into position. remove the nut you put on. and replace the tire. good-day! if the brakes and rotor are in the way. you will have to remove them to replace the wheel stud.
remove the brake caliper and rotor to access the hub. now to remove bad wheel stud. knock old stud out with a hammer and punch or similar. when out, there should be enough room to slide new stud in from back of hub. With the new wheel stud in position through the hole, screw a couple of wheel bolts onto the stud. You'll use these to pull the new stud into place with a wrench or impact wrench. Simply tighten the bolts you put in place until the new wheel stud is fully seated. You can look on the back side of the hub to see when it is fully seated
Remove wheel. Take off outer driveshaft nut. Remove lower ball joint
pinch bolt & separate ball joint from spindle. Pull rotor &
spindle out & away to pull driveshaft outer splined end out of rotor
center hub. Look on the back of the spindle for the 4 bolts that hold
in the wheel bearing. Use a 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts and
remove wheel bearing from spindle (out towards the wheel stud side).
Probably will have to use a air chisel to get it out. Once it's out undo
the 4 bolts on the outer (wheel stud side) of the rotor and remove the
rotor from the hub. Clean & lube the hole where the bearing was in
the spindle & the inner face of the hub. MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN
otherwise you may get a pulsation on braking if theres a piece of rust
or dirt between the rotor center & the hub face. Reverse procedure
If the rear bolts don't come out then you will have to use a
slide hammer to separate the bearing to replace the rotor and there is a
very good chance you will need to replace the wheel bearing after
you're done (noisy on road test).
Not the job to do at home,
usually an easy 2-3 hours per side if things go bad (book time is 2.2
hrs per side). Use good quality rotors as you don't want to have to do
it again because a cheap rotor gave you a pulsation.
1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID
of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the
groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in.
Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can
use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the
wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the
back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
There are 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing/ABS sensor Assembly to the axle housing. Remove them and remove the wheel bearing from the car. You will be able to rotate the spindle and remove the lug studs. To replace them put it in the hole and tighten a lug nut to pull it into place(an impact wrench will be quite helpful). No Hammering it in, as it may dammage the sensor or bearing.
Should be a pressed in wheel stud, remove hub and have old one pressed out or you can do it the primitive way, by double nutting the old stud and striking it with a hammer to pound it out, if threads are bad then just strike the stud by itself , then replace new stud in opposite fashion...
I don't have a pic but there is usually not enough room to slide the stud out and in. However, we don't completely remove the hub assembly. On the back of the knuckle (item that the hub is installed into) there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold the hub. Remove these out about 1/2 an inch and you can slide the hub out just far enough to get the studs in and out. On some the outer cv joint is kind of in the way and you may need to remove the axle nut and push the axle in slightly in order to get a socket on the hub bolts. There isn't really any special tools needed but you have to make sure the new stud is fully installed (seated) otherwise the lug nut could back off. Hope this helps.