Question about 1994 Pontiac Sunbird

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Low brake pedal

Brakes were ok and all of a sudden the pedal went down i've replace the master cylinder and power booster and nothing has changed the car still stops ok but would like to bring the pedal back up

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Have you bled the system for air? is it a soft pedal?

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

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When engine starts brake pedal is sucked to floor, can't pull it up. eventually it comes up.


Year make and model, and did you try it with the vac booster hose disconnected ?

Jan 05, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Step by step instructions for replacing brake booster on a 1999 Toyota Camry


its my pleasure to answer your question how to replace the brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

Oct 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Have a 1993 dodge Caravan SE. Purchased it from a man which converted it from ABS to hydraulics. I didn't know it had brake problems till i got it running. He put on a 3 outlet 2 inlet proportional...


if something goes wrong with abs the brake system it reverts back to standard system!! If you can pump brake pedal up and hold it and start engine and it drops thats normal.You say low pedal if you go 15mph on road and check where pedal is when brakes apply.Power brakes will push aLMost to floor while stopped but while moveing you`ll almost go to slide or will go into slide if pedal is pushed to floor.Get on some gravel at 10 mph and hit brakes to a complete stop get out and check to see if all 4 tires slid or 2 front or only 2 rear. this will get you closer to problem good luck.

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Spongy brake pedal apears to be leaking fluid from brake booster


check or adjust brake pedal, check brake booster or replace new one, check pedal return spring and bushing, check all wheel cylinder or replace, check brake shoe or brake pad, check brake fluid or replace,.

Apr 03, 2011 | 1999 Pontiac Sunfire

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Changed calipers rotrs pads still no brake presure wont pump up to bleed air out of lines could master cylinder or booster be bad


Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

Mar 01, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Neon

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

2 Answers

I have a 1998 chevy s10 it has a good brake pedal with the engine off but with it running the pedal go'es to the floor and you can hear air at brake booster


Check for fluid leaks and your brakes. If you see no leaks and your brakes are in good shape replace the brake master cylinder and bleed the system. The air you hear is because the pedal went to the floor. If the booster goes bad the pedal will get so hard you can hardly push it at all. I think you will find if this happened suddenly either you have a major leak or the master cylinder went bad.

Sep 29, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

2 Answers

Power brakes not working


No such thing as vacuum lines to the master cylinder. You do have a vacuum line on the brake booster (power assist). When you step on the pedal do you hear a whoosing sound down by your pedal. This is a leaking Booster. Needs replacement.

When you step on the brake does the engine rpm change. This is a leaking check valve (one way air valve).

Jul 17, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sonoma

2 Answers

1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor- just changed master cylinder, brake booster, and bled brake lines- did not help


Ok the BRAKE BOOSTER is ONLY there to give you pwer assisted, otherwise NO POWER BRAKES. ( not anything to do with the low brake pedal ) Hopefully the junkyard master cylinder was in better shape than your original. AS far a bleedinda system, heres what I do. First with a1998 vehicle, I would go to ALL 4 wheels , OPEN & CLOSE slightly each bleeder to insure none of them are FROZEN, and they do freeze shut ENSUE THE MASTER CYLINDER IS FULL and CLOSED Now with an assistant sitting in the drivers seat, ready to pump the brakes, and ABLE TO HEAR YOU. Go to the furthest wheel from the master which would be the R/R. DONT touch anything yet. Tell the asst too slowly pump the brake pedal till it gets hard, and then HOLD THE PEDAL DOWN ( and dont let up on it until the pedal drops. If the ast lets up before the bleeder is closed you **** in air.Repeat at each wheel til the pedal stays hard. Hope this helps

Apr 12, 2009 | 1988 Chevrolet C1500

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