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P1192 has to do with Intake Air Temp. That sensor might be bad. The P0700 has to do with Transmission Control. Whether it's the control module or something else is hard to say at this point. However, if the vibration is really in the front of the vehicle, I would start by checking UJoints on the front drive shaft, CV Joints and the Transmission Mount/Motor Mounts. Make sure your transmission fluid level is correct. The shaking "under a load" is likely a torque converter issue. I had the same problem on my 96 Suburban. Instead of rebuilding the transmission (or changing the torque converter), there is a product available called "Dr. Tranny Shudder Fixx". Small tube, put in with Transmission Fluid, shudder goes away almost instantly. Hope this helps.
The torque spec for the tyrod ends are 45 foot pounds.
• Unlock the steering wheel before jacking up the vehicle. This allows the Steering linkage to be moved for the best possible access to the ends' fasteners by grabbing one of the axle hubs
• Secure the vehicle on jackstands before removing the wheels.
• Buy name-brand tie-rod ends. Saving a few dollars on cheaply made parts isn't worth the risk.
• Mark the tie-rod ends' positions on their threaded adjusters before removing the old ends. This way, the new ends can be screwed in to approximately the same position as the old ones to get wheel allimint in the ballpark.
• Have the vehicle professionally aligned afterward, especially if the steering wheel isn't centered or the vehicle pulls one direction when attempting to drive straight.
Signs your haveing probloms with the tyrod ends
• Front-end shimmy, shake or vibration.
• Abnormal front-end noise.
• Hard steering.
•steering wheel doesn't return to center properly.
• Vehicle wanders.
• Steering feels unstable, loose or has excessive play.
when you accelerate the torque(twisting motion)is lifting the front of the car(hence wheelspin), taking the weight off the lower control arms(no weight = more movement)so when you coast, the full front end weight is on the front suspension = no shake....
You have correctly named the problem ...It is called death wobble. There are a number of items that can cause that. Begin with the simple easy stuff: You need to loosen the lugs on your tires and while supported, make sure they are centered, then torque them to the correct setting (I can't remember for sure but 85 lbs sounds close) Use a "star" pattern when doing that. Next, make sure that all your front end components don't have any excessive play. Pay lots of attention to the ball joints and track bar end mounts as the bushings on the bar can wear and the mount holes can elongate. Next check the mount bolts for the steering box. sometimes they get loose, sometimes the chassis where they are mounted can crack. You can also have an alignment shop add additional caster. Especially on a short wheelbase vehicle this is critical, and nearly mandatory if any lift kits have been installed. If it is not set positive enough the front wheels can "flutter". I go beyond factory settings on most jeeps. I've seen many shops blame the steering dampner for that problem. Wobble can in time damage the dampner but generally changing it as a "cure" ends up with the shake returning in a week or less. Therefore, I recommend replacing it AFTER the problem has been found.
What you have is called death wobble. Generally it is caused by one or several loose components in the steering. You need to have all mounts including where steering box is attached to the chassis checked. Often the problem is caused by either bad ball joints or track bar ends or mounts. Wheel stud torque is also important. if any brake, tire, or other front end work has recently been done, this may be the cause. One item often suggested by shops is the steering stabilizer. It is often damaged by the shaking but if replaced will not cure the problem and will be damaged again. If everything in the front end is carefully checked and verified as good, then as a last resort, have some additional positive caster added to the front end alignment. That often helps.
The desciption you gave is exactly how it feels when you have an axle with a bad inner CV joint. It won't make a "clicking" noise like when you have a bad outer CV joint, but will shake pretty bad on accel. If you crawl under the car while it's on the ground (don't lift it) and grab on to the axle close to the inner CV joint and wiggle it, there shouldn't be very much play in it. If there is play in it, replace that axle.