Question about 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab

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Replace AC compressor clutch

After taking off outside plate and then the snap ring what tool will I need to pull off the pulley and reinstall new clutch assembly

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You will need to have the small tool kit that comes with both tools for pulling and installing clutch assembly. Check with Autozone and see if they have it in their tool loan program.

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

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3.9 V6. How can I remove the A/C clutch?


You need special tool
Tools Required ?€¢
J 37872 Compressor Clutch Holding Tool


?€¢
J 6083 Snap Ring Pliers


Important: Remove the three adjustable dowels from the J37872 Compressor Clutch Holding Tool.
Install three 5/16 x 1 inch bolts in place of the dowels.
Remove and discard the compressor clutch plate bolt.
Use the J 37872 to hold the compressor clutch plate from turning.
Remove the compressor clutch plate from the compressor.
Remove the compressor pulley snap ring using the J 6083
Remove the compressor pulley from the compressor.
Remove the compressor clutch coil snap ring using the J 6083 .
Remove the compressor clutch coil from the compressor.
google J 37872 - to see tool !

Jan 31, 2016 | 2006 Chevrolet Chevrolet Impala LT

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How to remove and reinstall a clutch on an a/c compressor



The AC compressor continued to turn even after I pulled the 12-volt supply wire to the unit. The AC compressor exhibited no unusual symptoms that would explain the locked clutch, there was no bearing failure, no unusual noise, On the contrary, the AC continued to work properly. The Jaguar cooled as good or better than the other cars I currently own, all of which have original factory 134a AC systems. uses the GM A6 compressor, a common compressor used by a variety of General Motor's cars I was not about to disassemble a perfectly working AC system because of a defective clutch. The project starts by removing the hood. Clearance in the Jaguar engine bay is non-existent. In addition, the AC compressor is located 3 inches from the radiator top support. it is possible to do this with the hood on you will regret it. The objective is to replace the AC clutch on the car. Remove the AC compressor's front and rear bolts only. Lift the front of the compressor up to clear the top radiator support. Do not depressurize the system or remove any hoses.
Remove the center 9/16-inch nut from the compressor shaft. A special clutch holding tool is not needed if an air impact wrench is used.
install the clutch removal tool. The clutch is "press fit" to the AC compressor front shaft.
Instead of a clutch holding tool, I used a bar resting on the engine (blue arrow) to hold the tool removal nut while I turned the center stud that forces the clutch off.
The pulley is now completely visible. You will need a large snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring that secures the pulley.
Notice the towel below the compressor. Snap rings (red arrow) have a habit of flying off the pliers and disappearing forever into the engine. You are farned
The pulley is a zero clearance fit to the compressor nose. If you are lucky it will slide off by pulling on it. You will probably not be lucky. I used a puller to remove the pulley. Be careful here. You must identify what the puller can and cannot push against. The center compressor shaft must not be used as leverage to pull or push any component not on the compressor shaft. A 1 1/8-inch, 1/2-in drive socket (red arrow) will fit over the center shaft and rests on the compressor nose cone. This is my leverage point. I taped a large washer (blue arrow) to the socket to provide a contact point for the puller.
Attach puller jaws in the pulley groves and place the modified washer to rest against the nose cone. Slowly tighten the puller to remove pulley.
Locate and secure pulley key. If the key stays on the compressor shaft, do not remove it. An even bigger snap ring secures the coil assembly to the compressor. Remove the snap ring.
Remove coil assembly.
The clutch release springs (blue arrows) also appear to be in working order.
Testing the resistance of the coil assemblies indicate that they are within specs. The old coil pack reads 4.8 ohms.
The rebuilt coil pack reads 4.5 ohms.
In removing the clutch it appeared the coil was permanently energized. The clutch removal tool had to forcefully pull the clutch from the pulley. I was not about to put this coil pack back on. I cleaned the contacts on the rebuilt unit prior to installation.
Gently clean the nose cone remove any surface rust. the clutch bearing rides on this surface, it must not be damaged.
connect coil pack to compressor and install. Make sure the coil pack is attached properly to the electrical connector. There are three indicators on the rear of the coil pack that must match the corresponding holes in the compressor body (red arrow). Install big snap ring.
Clean pulley surface and install pulley. The bearing might require some slight persuasion to slide onto the nose cone. Use a drift (red arrow) that contacts the inner ring of the bearing only. Tap gently until the pulley bearing seats.
Install second snap ring. Make sure that the snap ring seats fully in the shaft grove. Tap the snap ring fully into the groove with a screwdriver if necessary. (red arrow)
Clean clutch mating surface and install clutch to the compressor. Note position of shaft key and corresponding clutch key slot. (red arrows). Make sure they line up before installing clutch to compressor shaft.
use the clutch installation tool. The front of the tool (blue arrow) screws over the threads of the exposed 9/16-inch shaft stud (yellow arrow). The nut then forces the bearing (red arrow)against the clutch face, forcing it onto the compressor shaft. One side of the bearing rotates with the nut to reduce friction as it forces the clutch onto the shaft. Note that the forces all act on the compressor shaft, not against it.
Hold the center bolt while tightening the nut down.
You are looking for a pulley clearance of .010 to .015. If you inadvertently create too close a gap, put the clutch puller back on and pull the clutch out accordingly. Replacement and or rebuilt parts are rarely perfect. You will probably get different readings at various locations around the circumference of the clutch. If the closest gap is .010 or more and the largest gap is .015 or less you are OK.
Install 9/16-inch self-locking nut and tighten. If a clutch holding tool is not available, then finish tightening this nut after the compressor belt is on and the clutch energized. This nut does not hold on or impacts the position of the clutch. It appears to be a safety precaution just in case the press fit clutch somehow comes off the compressor shaft.
Install compressor to engine. Tighten 4 bolts to engine bracket. Connect electrical connections to coil assembly. Install belts.
Turn on your vehicle and let there be cold air, good luck sorry illustrations wouldn't load to this format

on Mar 05, 2011 | Jaguar XJ12 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

A/c pump pulley stops 04 envoy


The pulley has a bearing in it that needs to be replaced. Special tools are needed to take the clutch plate off to release the snap ring holding the pulley on the compressor.

May 20, 2014 | 2004 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Ford Taurus. Yesterday the serpentine belt broke and I replaced it. My car was looked at by two men who know a good deal about cars. They both said the reason the belt broke was because...


AC PULLEY AND BEARING CAN BE REPLACED.YOU WILL NEED AC COMPRESSOR TOOLS LIKE SEAL TOOL AND PULLEY BEARING TOOL THE AIR CONDITIONER SYSTEM HAS TO BE DISCHARGED TO FIX AC COMPRESSOR PULLEY AND BEARING. YOUR AC COMPRESSOR PULLEY HAS A NUT AND SNAP RING HOLD IT IN PLACE.GO TO DEALERSHIP TO SEE IF THEY HAVE THE AC PULLEY NUT AND SNAP RING.SOME TIME YOU WILL HAVE TO BUY A NEW AC PULLEY BEARING AND SEAL TO GET A NEW NUT AND SNAP RING.AUTO ZONE HAS AC TOOL YOU CAN RENT TO FIX AC BUT YOU HAVE TO TAKE CAR TO DEALERSHIP AND GET AC SYSTEM DISCHARGED FIRST BEFORE YOU CAN WORK ON AC COMPRESSOR.

Dec 01, 2010 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Can you replace tyhe a/c pully woyhout the compressor


Yes you could, however you need a compressor clutch holding tool to remove the compressor clutch retaining bolt. After that you can take off the a/c clutch spacer and hub. When that is out of the way you have to remove the clutch pulley retaining snap ring with snap ring pliers. Then the a/c clutch pulley will come off.

Sep 12, 2010 | 1997 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

A/C Compressor Noise


It sound like the A/C Compressor Clutch & Pulley Bearing, If it was the AC compressor bearing. You would see the oil leaking from the compressor and most likely have a non working AC.

How you do it:
Remove the serpentine belt and unbolt the compressor from it's mounts and tilt it up so you can get to the front easier. Use the clutch removal tool to pull off the clutch. Remove the large snap ring in front of the pulley. Spray some WD40 in the hub area and remove the pulley from the compressor. It's best to use the universal puller.

If you don't have the puller or forgot to rent it, bolt the compressor back down to it's mount and carefully pry the pulley away from the compressor. Be careful and don't stress the gas lines. The pulley bearing is pressed onto the aluminum casting of the compressor body so you are not prying against the compressor shaft. The bearing can be hard to remove because the steel bearing in contact with the aluminum frame will cause a dissimilar metal weld.

Clean off all the surfaces and threads using a wire brush and / or some sand paper. Note: The white circular object is the magnetic coil that activates the A/C. Place the new hub on the frame and tap into place with a piece of wood or use the special puller tool which will also press the new hub into the frame. Press the hub in until the groove is exposed enough to install the large snap ring. Install the large snap ring. Make sure it is seated all the way around. Install the clutch assembly taking care to position the shaft key in the compressor slot. Use the special installer tool to press the clutch into place. Leave between .020 and .030 air gap between the hub and the clutch.

Note: Some of the clutch replacement kits come with the coil. The coil is a circular elector magnet that pulls the clutch in and activates the compressor. While trying to get the coil off I removed a snap ring inside the hub which was holding the seal causing all the gas in the system to blow out; so be careful. Mark the electrical terminal location of the coil.

There is a special puller/ installer tool for removing the coil. If you don't have the puller try the following but you are on your own as far as damaging the compressor or seals.

The coil can be removed by working a couple of screw drivers behind the coil against the compressor frame. Be very careful and don’t try and force it. Be extra careful putting the new one on, it has a seal with a brass ring that needs to be pushed on. If you hit it with a socket you might nick it and the seal will probably fail.

The Clutch kit from NAPA lists for 299.67 and they can sell it for 195.91. What a markup when you go somewhere else to have it done. Another thing the clutch puller / installer #78-3213 works really good. It lists for 38.46 and they sell it for 26.99. I was told to make the air gap between the clutch and the pulley assembly between 20-30 thousands. A big note, when you get the clutch off put the tool back on and try and move the shaft up and down and sideways. If it moves around the bearings and seal are probably bad and no need to just replace the clutch.

Good luck and hope this helps keeps you from replacing the whole unit.

Dec 30, 2009 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How do you go about disconnecting the clutch on an a/c compressor in a 1996 chevy blazer?


Removel:
  • Remove the serpentine belt and unbolt the compressor from it's mounts and tilt it up so you can get to the front easier.
  • Use the clutch removal tool to pull off the clutch.
  • Remove the large snap ring in front of the pulley.
  • Spray some WD40 in the hub area and remove the pulley from the compressor. It's best to use the universal puller.
  • If you don't have the puller bolt the compressor back down to it's mount and carefully pry the pulley away from the compressor. Be careful and don't stress the gas lines. The pulley bearing is pressed onto the aluminum casting of the compressor body so you are not prying against the compressor shaft. The bearing can be hard to remove because the steel bearing in contact with the aluminum frame will cause a dissimilar metal weld.
  • Clean off all the surfaces and threads using a wire brush and / or some sand paper. Note: The white circular object is the magnetic coil that activates the A/C.
Instalation:
  • Place the new hub on the frame and tap into place with a piece of wood or use the special puller tool which will also press the new hub into the frame.
  • Press the hub in until the groove is exposed enough to install the large snap ring.
  • Install the large snap ring. Make sure it is seated all the way around.
  • Install the clutch assembly taking care to position the shaft key in the compressor slot. Use the special installer tool to press the clutch into place. Leave between .020 and .030 air gap between the hub and the clutch.

Good luck and keep me posted, Be glad to answer any questions you may have and if you need help replacing the coil also, (clutch core)

Jul 16, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

3 Answers

Changing the ac clutch and taking out the pully


04/11/09 2000
Chevy Cavalier Air Conditioning Clutch replacement
Just finished it. I am an novice. Use safety glasses, Dust and dirt will get in you eyes even with the protection.

Disassembly:
Pop and raise the hood.
Loosen the left front lug nuts. Jack up car the higher the better. Install jack stands! Remove left front wheel. Place wheel under car to act as a last chance stand in case your jack stands fail.
Using 9/32 nut driver remove screws that hold plastic shielding to the inner fender well so as to expose AC compressor.
You will also have to pullout the Plastic snap things with needle nose pliers so get the plastic covers away from you work area ( I didn’t remove ALL of the plastic completely, just enough to swing it out of the way. There is a box of electrical stuff right there (wires) but the screws that were holding it to the inside wheel well had rusted away so it moved with the plastic when pulled out and away.
Pull down on the belt tensioner to loosen the serpentine belt (its hard to do) and slip the belt off of the AC compressor pulley.
Disconnect the AC Electromagnetic clutch power wires, (it is facing the front of the vehicle) the connector has little "Wings" that must be "Slightly pried apart" in order to remove the plastic connector from the compressor.
Using a 1/2" socket remove the nut that is in the center of the clutch assembly (to remove- turn it counter clockwise), I used a pry bar against the upper control arm and a notch in the Outer clutch plate to hold the A/C outer clutch plate from turning as I turned and removed the nut.

IMPORTANT! This nut that you are removing is threaded on to the A/C compressor shaft. DO NOT DAMAGE the A/C compressor shaft or the threads on which the nut is threaded.

NOTE: Be aware there is a "KEY", a small rectangular piece of metal that is on the shaft of the compressor, it will either stick to the outer clutch components or to the A/C shaft. This key is what transfers the belt energy onto the Compressor shaft (do not misplace).

This outer clutch plate is to pull straight out to leave exposed the inner clutch plate.
I suppose a few screwdrivers or chisels may do the trick but this part must come off of the compressor to get to the important next part.
I used a TIE ROD End Puller to slide the outer clutch plate out and off of the compressor shaft.
By driving the tie rod tool between the outer and inner clutch surfaces the outer clutch slid from the compressor shaft. Any wedge type device should be able to do this.

IMPORTANT! There is a "Hidden" C clip (snap ring) behind the outer clutch plate! ( I did not know this until I broke the end of the compressor nose off by pulling the pulley off with a pulley puller). Please read on...

The "C" Clip. This clip uses snap ring pliers to be removed. This clip holds the inner clutch assembly onto the compressor. The snap ring is holding onto the "Nose" of the compressor.
This clip is now "closed" you must "open" the clip so that it can be pulled off of the nose of the A/C compressor.
I used "Snap Ring Pliers" but I suppose a "Ground-to-a-point" Needle Nose Pliers "May" work.
Once you have removed the retaining ring the next thing that comes off is the inner assembly.
I used a pulley puller to remove the pulley but the Auto parts store in which I purchased the new A/C clutch would let me "Borrow" the AC clutch puller tool. This is the way to go if you are doing this on a budget. The A/C clutch puller grasps the A/C pulley on two sides and pushes against the compressor shaft, thereby sliding the inner clutch assembly EVENLY out and away from the A/C compressor "Nose".

IMPORTANT! DO NOT DAMAGE the A/C compressor shaft you will not be able to repair it if you do!
With the inner clutch assembly removed, the last thing to come off is the fragile A/C electromagnet, If you need to replace it.

The "Electromagnet":
This is a plastic coated coil of fine wire that electrical current flows through when the A/C is turned "ON" inside the car. When the current flows through it, it creates a strong magnetic field and this magnetic field pulls the outer A/C clutch parts into contact with the inner A/C clutch parts until they touch. This force is strong enough to transfer the spinning energy of the serpentine belt through the clutch onto the compressor shaft (by way of the "Key") and turn the insides of the A/C compressor to compress the liquid coolant and send it on its way through the A/C hoses.

This electromagnet came with the new clutch assembly I purchased so I changed mine. (I broke the connector off with a screwdriver earlier so I'm glad I got a new one).

NOTE: Notice where the magnet electrical connection is facing (forward- you'll need to remember).
I used several screwdrivers to evenly force the "Magnet" off of the Compressor "Nose".
It must move about 2" before it falls off, so I ended up using some "wedge like" chisels and screwdrivers to force it off by driving them between the A/C case and the back of the electromagnet (it took about 3 minutes).

Congratulations IT IS APART! Now to put the new parts back on.

New parts: Electromagnet, Inner clutch, Outer clutch
Parts to re-install: the "Snap Ring" ("C" clip), the "KEY" taken from the old outer clutch assembly (or "off of the compressor shaft" wherever it ended up being).

Position and install the new electromagnet onto the A/C compressor "Nose". Be aware of the position of the electrical connector is to face "forward" (like the way the old one was positioned).
I used the old electromagnet to be a sacrificial part when I used a small hammer to drive the new part back onto the "nose" of the Compressor. I drove it until it was almost touching the compressor bolts. (The same position as the old one was before I drove it "Evenly OFF of the Nose" with my wedges and screwdrivers).
Position and install the inner clutch assembly onto the compressor. Apply pressure evenly so the part does not "****" sideways and become stuck. I gently tapped around and around until it bottomed out.
NOW install the Snap ring using the tool you got it off with (It should just about "Push on") until it "Snaps" (locks) back into the slot that you removed it from.
I applied an anti-seize agent on the inside and outside of the shaft of the new outer clutch before I lined it up with the compressor shaft. Remember to install the Shaft "KEY" between the shaft and the notch of the outer clutch component.
Press the new outer clutch back onto the compressor. (I used a small hammer and "Gently" tapped it to where it should be.
Install the 1/2" nut you removed from the center shaft and turn it Clockwise (Tighten) until it bottoms out.
If necessary tap the outer clutch assembly until you are sure it is back to where it should be. There should be a small gap (postcard thickness or so) between the inner clutch and outer clutch surfaces.
Using your 1/2" socket be sure the nut is TIGHT ( I have no idea what the torque specification is or how to hold the outer clutch assembly from turning so I held it with my hands until I couldn’t stop it from turning).
Plug in the electrical connection.
Re-install the plastic panels using the 9/32" nut driver on the mounting screws. Snap back in the plastic fasteners into the holes from once they came.
Re install the left front tire into the car and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Inspect your work clean and put your tools away.
Start the car, with the AC Button (Switch) "OFF" inspect the outer A/C Compressor Clutch "not turning". Listen for problematic sounds.
Turn on the A/C, with the AC Button (Switch) "ON" inspect outer A/C Compressor Clutch is "engaged" and turning the shaft of the compressor. After a few minutes the cabin air should start to cool.
This is how it should work.
With mine, the clutch did not engage, Probably because there is no refrigerant in the system so the compressor will not engage until I install at least one can of refrigerant into the A/C System (that's when a pressure sensing switch figures out that there is refrigerant in the system and it will be "OK" to run the compressor). You cant run the compressor without it's lubrication it wont let you.
So now I'm off to the parts store for a couple of cans of Freon (or what ever its called now).
I hope this helps - Good Luck!

Jul 17, 2008 | Chevrolet C1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

AC Compressor clutch


ok if the clutch is vivrating then the clutch assembly is not good you need to replace it, unfortunatelly the clucth might cost you
almost as much as a new or rebuilt compressor except to you if
you want to replace either or, but if you want to save some money go to a place where they specialize in a/c and ask to buy a used clutch, but if you don't know how to replace it then have some one do it for you, but if you know little be about mechanic you should be hable to do it your self, just se the gap between the front side of clutch to the compressor pulley and try to leave about the same gap when you installed the way todjust the gap is very simple just add ar remove washers between cluch and shaft

Jun 10, 2008 | 2005 Ford Taurus

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