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Engine stalls cold or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the
cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
I need to get a clear mental picture of what exactly is happening.
With this said, you stated that the car "runs fine" until warmed up.
Q: When you start the car when cold it idles fine?
Q: If you allow the car to idle until "fully" warmed does the car stall?
Q: As the car begins to warm up, Does the RPM fluctuate abnormally?
Q: Does the car Only stall when you press on the gas pedal or does it stall just sitting and idling in addition to pressing the gas pedal?
Q: If you can drive it while cold does the car stall during acceleration when warm or only at Stop Signs / Lights?
Q: If you wait 20min or so, can you start the car again?
Q: How many miles are on the car?
Early Toyota fuel injection use a cold start injector, it only works when the engine is cold. It is located in the intake manifold. for the mean time you can turn up your idle by turning a flat head screw in your intake manifold counter clock wise . It could be a coolant temp switch for the injector that has gone bad also.
if it is a carburated engine it is probably the a.a.p. diaphragm in the carb. if you remove the air cleaner and look on the side of the carb that is towards the valve cover near the front yow will see a vacuum hose going to a cover that is fastened with 3 screws. if you pull the vacuum line off you will see that there is probably fuel being sucked into the line due to the leaking diaphragm. the vacuum source is temp controlled and cuts off when warm. but when cold sucks fuel directly into the intake. remove the 3 screws to replace the diaphragm, being carefull of the spring. good luck!
Although this isn"t a proper fix, and may affect emissions, I ran accross this problem on a friend's 87 2wd wagon.
There is a dashpot that controls a lever the Idle set screw is on, I am guessing it is a decel valve that closes butterfly when coasting in gear. I never looked at a manual to figure out what controls the vacuum valve that is on the passenger side of the engine compartment, but if you disconect the vacuum line and plug it that lever will not back off and idle will remain where you set it with the adjustment screw.
Make sure the engine is warmed up and not on a fast idle cam before adjusting idle.
The car is a 5 speed, I not sure if automatic cars are the same.
The car idles fine now and still run's great and gets 37+ MPG with 240000 miles!
If you want to fix it properly you would have to diagnose why that dashpot is being actuated at idle