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Looking at my Olds Intrigue 1998 Service Manual (Volume 1 of 3), I believe Oldsmobile calls what you describe as either the "Headlamp Switch Turn Signal Lever" (part #1 on the exploded view), or the "Headlamp and Turn Signal Switch" (part #2 on the exploded diagram on page 8-53 of the first volume of the Service Manual). I had to order a "turn signal switch" to get my horn to work from the steering wheel (it worked from the remote), and I'm thinking that your part is also part of the "turn signal switch."
It's on top of the steering column (under the shroud-like plastic), right behind the steering wheel from where you sit in the car. It takes a mechanic about 1.5 hours to replace it and it's tough for you to do if you don't own the right tools and know how to get to it. (I never got it figured out.)
If the white printing on the turn signal lever is a bit worn, it's a good clue that what it controls has had wear, and you may need to replace it soon anyway.. You also might check with the store you are getting the part from to make sure.
One of the things is a lock-out switch on the brake pedal lever. Some are coordinated with the gearshift, the Keyswitch, and the starter Relay. Check to see if the brake lights work when you press on the brake pedal. If no signal is going to the brake lights, then there is a chance that the Park shift lever, the steering wheel and the Keyswitch are bound up.
Sometimes a steering wheel is at the extreme reach of the travel in the front suspension. This can sometimes happen in cold weather when the car is sitting on ice or snow. When the ice or snow melts, the front tires settle into a position that puts pressure on the steering wheel and loads Torque up the steering column. Another possibility is that the car was bumped in the Parking lot and jammed into a position creating Torque on the steering column.
Last, the tumbler inside the Keyswitch could have fallen apart and that is why the mechanism is not releasing the steering wheel.
There are adjustments in the Keyswitch to be at the correct position to work with the lockout at the bottom of the steering column.
Try rocking the steering wheel slightly (it should turn just a little bit) while gently trying to turn the key. Sometimes if you turn the ignition off (to the lock position) too quickly, the steering wheel will be forced to turn slightly by the power steering pump as the engine comes to a stop. When turning the ignition off in the future, only turn the key back 1 notch to shut the engine off first. Then, after the engine has stopped, finish turning the key to the lock position.
Remove horn pad . After removing the large nut SCRIBE A LINE ON THE CENTER SHAFT and the STEERING WHEEL, Using a steering wheel puller, remove steering wheel. Now comes the tricky part. Remove signal stalk ( just pull out a couple of inches ),and 4-way flasher knob. Disconnect multiple connector of signal switch. Remove 3 screws holing switch down. Gently pull upward on switch to expose lower steering bowl. The large bolts are LOOSE that secure it, so the reason for the wobble. Tighten bolts, and reverse procedure.
this 2 wire sensor is mounted on the passenger side of the motor just below the power steering pump. it is attached with a single tiny bolt.it can be removed without removing the p.s. pump with needle nose pliers
good luck chris
Honestly, I've done enough suspension work to know that your problem probably lies in the tie-rod ends. If the hole that the pivot shaft comes out of is even the slightest bit oblong, you'll experience major play in the wheel as well as your steering wheel not returning to the proper position. Whats more, if your tie-rod ends get too worn, the pivot shaft can actually separate from the tie-rod while you're going down the road, causing you to lose ALL steering capability...I've had this happen to me before, and believe me, it's NO FUN AT ALL!!! If the tie-rodends aren't the problem, then you've probably got an issue with a damaged control arm or sub-frame. Hope this helps!!!
This is not an easy procedure, especially since you've never done it before. With the wheels in the straight ahead position, look at the back of the steering wheel, you'll see two holes. One at 9 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock. You stick a small flat blade screwdriver in the first hole and you pry on the retaining spring while gently pulling on the airbag until it releases. Repeat on the other side. I'm a professional mechanic and the first time I did it, it took me over a half hour to figure it out. Now I can do it in less than a minute. Might want to take it to the dealer.