Question about 1995 Jaguar XJ6

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1995 jaguar xjr front engine noise still

OK...disconnected cooling fan circuit and noise still continues....tim ing belt tensioner noice ? I have a whine and a rattle after the car starts but I thought it was the started bendix...silly me.

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  • cb1359 Nov 28, 2008

    yes, the mechanic diagnosed as my NAPA rebuilt water pump with less than 2500 miles on it was making the noise. Good grief !


  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    Whine sounds like tire noise, but sounds like it is in center of car, coming from the transfer case



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  • 22,326 Answers

Water pump ???

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Nov 28, 2008

    i have a jag myself its the sunday car.



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Click coming from timing chain x type 2.0 jaguar

if the noise is definately from the front engine timing chain cover area then the first thing i would do is remove the auxillary drive belt/fan belt then start the engine to see if noise is still there? if so the only option is to remove the front engine cover and from remember you may have to remove the cylinder heads also, even remove engine for access\,big job, the engine is normally a bullet proof unit, if the oil has been changed at service advised intervals then the hydraulic chain tensoiner etc should be ok and most noise problems at the front of engine area are caused by. ie. belt tensioner, air con compressor,pas pump etc. so if noise goes when aux belt removed look at the that area. hope this helps.

Jul 31, 2016 | Jaguar X-Type Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have code P0443. How can I find out what is wrong?

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0443 Evaporative Emission Control ...
P0443 - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit ... P0443 trouble code symptoms could be just an malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) ... But, it's also possible to have a lean condition or a rough running engine if the ...Missing: jaguar ‎xj6

P0443 OBD-II Code and Check Engine Light - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar ... > ... > XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
Feb 24, 2014 - Anyone have an idea on where to look for this? Jaguar® Leasing Deals.... P0443 OBD-II Code and Check Engine Light-xj8-purge-valve. .... Newby with air suspension fault, philwarner, XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ), 7 ...Missing: 1995

Error code p0443..Think dealer is on crack - F150online Forums

Jan 01, 2016 | 1995 Jaguar XJ6

1 Answer

1999 Cadillac Eldorado ,overheating changed thermostat , overflow cap ,no white smoke coming from blowing from heater

Are the cooling fans coming on ? Go under the hood in the engine compartment , with the vehicle running have some one turn on the A/C , do you see and or hear the cooling fans come on ? Could be the coolant temperature gauge is bad ! How many miles on the vehicle ? Ever have water pump replaced ?


Check for a loss of system pressure.
Is there a loss of system pressure?
Go to Step 2 yes
Go to Step 3 no


Inspect and repair any faulty hose connections.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 3 yes
System OK


Check for low coolant protection (-37?°C/-34?°F).
Is there low coolant protection (-37?°C/-34?°F)?
Go to Step 4 yes
Go to Step 5 no


Test solution. Replace the coolant if necessary.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 5 yes
System OK


Check the water pump belt for low tension.
Is the water pump belt tension too low?
Go to Step 6 yes
Go to Step 7 no


Replace the water pump belt tensioner.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 7 yes
System OK


Check for an inoperative thermostat bypass.
Is the thermostat bypass inoperative?
Go to Step 8 yes
Go to Step 9 no


Replace the bypass.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 9 yes
System OK


Check the water pump.
Is the water pump inoperative?
Go to Step 10 yes
Go to Step 11 no


Replace the water pump.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 11 yes
System OK


Check the radiator fins for obstruction.
Are the radiator fins obstructed?
Go to Step 12 yes
Go to Step 13 no


Inspect and clean the radiator fans.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 13 yes
System OK


Check the cooling system passage for obstruction.
Is the cooling system passage blocked?
Go to Step 14 yes
Go to Step 15 no


Inspect and flush the system. Reroute or replace the hose if necessary.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 15 yes
System OK


Check the water pump belt for damage.
Is the water pump belt damaged?
Go to Step 16 yes
Go to Step 17 no


Replace the water pump belt.
Does the engine still overheat?
Go to step 17 yes
System OK


Check the cooling fans.
Are the cooling fans inoperative?
Go to Step 18 yes
Go to Step 19 no


  1. Inspect the electrical connector. Replace if necessary.
  2. Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 19 yes
System OK


Check the throttle body circuit flow.
Is the throttle body circuit flow restricted?
Go to Step 20
Go to Step 21


  1. Inspect the orifice and associated hose. Replace if necessary.
  2. Does the engine still overheat?
Go to Step 21
System OK


Check for a stuck thermostat.
Is the thermostat stuck in the closed position?
Go to Step 22


Replace the thermostat.
Does the engine still overheat?
System OK

Sep 16, 2015 | 1999 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

Front seal replacement 5.9 cummins

Hi Dale, I'm glad to help! Below is the removal procedure for the front crankshaft seal on your 5.9 cummins engine. Hope this helps and have an awesome day!


  1. Disconnect both battery negative cables.
  2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  3. Partially drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
  4. Lower vehicle.
  5. Remove radiator upper hose.
  6. Disconnect coolant recovery bottle from radiator filler neck and lift bottle off of fan shroud.
  7. Disconnect windshield washer pump supply hose and electrical connections and lift washer bottle off of fan shroud.
  8. Remove viscous fan/drive assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
  9. Remove cooling fan shroud and fan assembly from the vehicle.
  10. Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
  11. Remove the cooling fan support/hub from the front of the engine.
  12. Raise the vehicle on hoist.
  13. Remove the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring.
  14. Remove power steering pump.
  15. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
  16. Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar the gasket surfaces. Remove crank seal dust shield with cover.
  17. Support the cover on a flat work surface with wooden blocks (Removing Seal from Cover), and using a suitable punch and hammer, drive the old seal out of the cover from the back side of the cover to the front side(Removing Seal from Cover).

Apr 10, 2014 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

2 Answers

I have a 1990 mitsubishi montero sport. it will crank but will not start. the distributor wasn't turning the rotary button so i changed distributor and still not turning it. anyone have a guess what it...

3.0L and 3.5L Engines REMOVAL
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the battery and battery tray, if necessary for additional working clearance.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator.
  4. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator.
  5. Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly.
  6. Loosen the necessary components and remove the drive belts from the air conditioning compressor, the power steering pump and the water pump/alternator.
  7. Remove the fan pulley from the water pump.
  8. Remove the power steering pump from the engine. Hang it out of the way by using string or stiff wire. Do not disconnect any lines or hoses; just move the whole pump with the lines attached.
  9. Remove the power steering pump bracket and mount. WARNING
    The bolts are of different lengths. Label or diagram each bolt and its location; correct reassembly is required.
  10. Remove the tension pulley bracket (idler pulley) located just behind the power steering pump bracket.
  11. Remove the air conditioning compressor. Hang it out of the way without kinking or twisting the lines. WARNING
    Do not disconnect any lines from the compressor. Do not allow the compressor to hang by the lines; support it securely.
  12. Remove the compressor bracket.
  13. Remove the cooling fan bracket assembly or the accessory mount.
  14. Remove the upper timing belt covers and their gaskets; keep the gaskets with the covers. Removal of the crankshaft position sensor connector will be necessary on the 3.5L engines. WARNING
    Bolts are of three different lengths; label or diagram their location during removal.
  15. Remove the crankshaft pulley. Use only the specified special tools (MD998754 & MB990767-01), or a damaged pulley damper could result.
  16. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  17. Use a wrench on the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine clockwise until all the timing marks align. This positions the engine at TDC/compression for No. 1 piston. Once positioned, the engine must not be moved out of place.
  18. Install the special counter-holding tools or equivalent and remove the crankshaft pulley. The large center bolt will be tight; do not turn the motor during removal.
  19. Remove the front flange from the crankshaft sprocket.
  20. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and turn the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise along the elongated hole; this will relax the belt tension. NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with automatic type timing belt tensioner, remove the assembly, compress the pushrod and insert a small pin to reset the tensioner.
  21. If the timing belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the belt with chalk or crayon. The belt must be reinstalled in its original position.
  22. Carefully slide the belt off the sprockets. Place the belt in a clean, dry, protected location away from the work area. if the tensioner is to be removed, disconnect the spring and remove the retaining bolt.
  1. Inspect the timing belt in detail for any flaw or wear. If the belt is not virtually perfect, replace it. A case can be made for replacing the belt every time it is removed, particularly on high-mileage engines. Some of the conditions to look for are:
    • Hardened back surface; non-elastic and glossy; hard to mark with a fingernail.
    • Cracking on back of belt, bottom of teeth or side of belt.
    • Missing teeth or teeth lifting from belt.
    • Side of belt worn or fuzzy. Normal belt should have clean sides as if cut with a sharp knife.
    • Wear on teeth as shown by distinct color change or worn rubber.
    • Separation of inner coating from backing.
    • Any uneven wear patterns on the teeth of the belt. Wear pattern should be even across each tooth and not differ from one tooth to another.
  2. Check the sprockets and tensioner for wear. The sprocket teeth should be well defined, not rounded and the valleys between the teeth should be clean. The tensioners should spin freely with no binding or unusual noise. Replace the tensioner if there is any sign of grease leaking from the seal. Clean everything with a clean, dry cloth. WARNING
    Do not spray or immerse the sprockets or tensioners in cleaning solvent. The sprocket may absorb the solvent and transfer it to the belt. The tensioners are internally lubricated and the solvent will dilute or dissolve the lubricant. Fig. 25: Timing belt and cover installation and removal components - 3.0L Engines 86663176.gif
    Fig. 26: Correct bolt location by length - 3.0L Engines 86663177.gif
    Fig. 27: Timing belt and sprocket layout - 3.0L Engines 86663178.gif
    Fig. 28: Special tools needed for timing belt removal - 3.0L Engines 86663179.gif

  3. If the tensioner was removed, it must be reinstalled. After bolting it loosely in place, connect the spring onto the pin. Make certain the spring faces in the correct direction on the tensioner. Turn the tensioner to the extreme counterclockwise position on the elongated hole and tighten the bolt just enough to hold the tensioner in this position.
  4. Double check the alignment of the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.
  5. Observing the direction of rotation marks made earlier, install the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket and then onto the left bank camshaft sprocket. Maintain tension on the belt between the sprockets.
  6. Continue installing the belt onto the water pump, the right bank cam sprocket and the tensioner.
  7. With your fingers, apply gentle counterclockwise force to the left camshaft sprocket. When the belt is taut on the tension side, the timing marks should align perfectly.
  8. Install the flange on the crankshaft sprocket.
  9. Loosen the bolt holding the tensioner one or two turns and allow the spring tension to draw the tensioner against the belt.
  10. Using special tool MB 998716-01 or equivalent adapter, turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions clockwise. Turn the crank smoothly and re-align the timing marks at the end of the second revolution. This allows the tensioner to compensate for the normal amount of slack in the belt.
  11. With the timing marks aligned, tighten the tensioner bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  12. Inspect each gasket for the timing covers. The gaskets should be clean and pliable. Replace any which are distorted, cracked or broken. Coat the channel in each timing cover with a light coat of adhesive such as 3M® EC 870 or equivalent. Press the seals squarely into their channels.
  13. Install the lower timing cover. Then install the upper timing covers, making sure each is properly seated. Tighten the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
  14. Install the cooling fan bracket or the accessories mount and stay.
  15. Install the air conditioning compressor bracket and install the compressor.
  16. Install the idler pulley bracket assembly.
  17. Install the mount and bracket for the power steering pump.
  18. Install the power steering pump.
  19. Install the cooling fan pulley.
  20. Install the drive belts: alternator/water pump, power steering and A/C compressor in that order. Adjust each belt to the correct tension.
  21. Install the fan and clutch assembly.
  22. Install the radiator shroud.
  23. Connect the upper radiator hose.
  24. Fill the cooling system with coolant.
  25. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
  26. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and let it idle, listening for any unusual noises from the area of the timing belt. Possible causes of noise are the belt rubbing against the covers or a sprocket flange, the belt being too loose and slapping, or a tensioner binding. Do not accelerate the engine if abnormal noises are heard from the timing belt train - severe damage can result.
  27. Final adjustment of the drive belts may be needed.

Feb 09, 2011 | Mitsubishi Montero Sport Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cooling fan will not shut off continued even after ignition key is off and removed, and small black box in front of battery keeps making a clicking noice

That would be the relay box, remove the lid and remove the relay that controls the cooling fan circuit. and that would be the one making the clicking noise. It will probably be very hot, If you have pulled the right one the cooling fan will turn off. Replace it with a new one. Should be fine now, however in the event that the problem does not go away then replace the engine coolant temperature sensor. Good Luck From Ernie @ RedDeer, Alberta, Canada.

Jan 14, 2011 | 2002 Saturn L-Series

3 Answers

We need to replace a fan belt that broke. Does

You can do it. If it takes longer than 10 minutes something is wrong. If its a V8 make sure the tensioner is good, Fan belts rarely just "break" so check all the pulleys.

Dec 16, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

3 Answers

Water pump

buy new pump and then proceed to take off front of engine as that is where pump is located will be right behind fan blade

Oct 27, 2009 | 1995 Mitsubishi Montero

1 Answer

Replace timing belt

1993–96 2.3L and 2.6L Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Loosen and remove the engine accessory drive belts.
  3. Remove the cooling fan assembly and the water pump pulley.
  4. Drain the fluid from the power steering reservoir.
  5. Unbolt and remove the power steering pump. Unbolt the hydraulic line brackets from the upper timing cover and move the pump out of the work area without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.
  6. Disconnect and remove the starter motor if a flywheel holder (part No. J–38674) is to be used.
  7. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
  8. Rotate the crankshaft to set the engine at TDC/compression for the No. 1 cylinder. The arrow mark on camshaft sprocket aligns with mark on the rear timing cover.
  9. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  10. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  11. Verify that the engine is set at TDC/compression for the No. 1 cylinder. The notch on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the pointer on the oil seal retainer.
  12. Release and remove the tensioner spring to release the timing belt's tension.
  13. Remove the timing belt.
  14. Unbolt the tensioner pulley bracket from the engine's front cover.
  15. If necessary, unbolt and remove the camshaft sprockets. Use a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley if necessary. Don't loose the crankshaft sprocket key. To install:
  16. Install the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets if they were removed. Align the timing marks and be sure to install any keys. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm).
  17. Install the tensioner assembly. Tighten the tensioner mounting bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). Tighten the cap bolt to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
  18. Make sure the crankshaft and the camshaft sprockets are aligned with their timing marks. Install the timing belt onto the sprockets using the following sequence: first, crankshaft sprocket; second, oil pump sprocket; third, camshaft sprocket.
  19. Loosen the tensioner mounting bolt. This will allow the tensioner spring to apply pressure to the timing belt.
  20. After the spring has pulled the timing belt as far as possible, temporarily tighten the tensioner mounting bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). NOTE: Remove the flywheel holder before rotating the crankshaft. Reinstall the holder to torque the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  21. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise two complete revolutions to check the rotation of the belt and the alignment of the timing marks. Listen for any rubbing noises which may mean the belt is binding.
  22. Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt to allow the spring to adjust the correct tension. Then, retighten the tensioner pulley bolt to 14 ft. lbs (19 Nm).
  23. Install the lower timing cover and the crankshaft pulley.
  24. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm). Tighten the small pulley bolts to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
  25. Install the upper timing cover.
  26. Install the starter if it was removed. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  27. Install the power steering pump. If the hydraulic lines were disconnected, refill and bleed the power steering system.
  28. Install the water pump pulley and tighten its nut to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
  29. Install the cooling fan assembly.
  30. Install and adjust the accessory drive belts.
  31. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jun 26, 2009 | 1995 Isuzu Trooper

3 Answers

Noisy water pump pulley,alternator pulley..timing belt tensioner

I have a 1995 xj6....same problem. I replaced the belts, water pump, and the alternator. Still does it. As I play with the tension on the belt (belt that drives water pump, alternator) it goes away and comes back. If I remove the belt, the metal to metal screech stops. I then, with just the belt, turned the main pulley on the front of the engine, and there was the sound! The main pulley has 2 belts that run on it. Also, 2 pulley tracks. They SHOULD move simultaneously and be super meshed. But the rear one moves on its own under tension until it warms up and I guess, the bushing maybe expands. do I fix it??????

Nov 19, 2008 | 1995 Jaguar XJ-R

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