1986 944 turbo, 165,000 miles, standard transmission; Throttle drops out
sometimes only during driving conditions. When I am driving, the throttle
will cut out completely, wont restore untill I put the accelerator back to
idle position, then throttle returns to normal, sometimes recurring again
after I accelerate again. This happens alot. Engine idles fine, and has
never cut out at idle. Car was stored outside for many years. Any ideas
would be helpful.
1986 944 turbo w/80,000 miles. Starts & runs great at idle and up to 1,600 rpm. Frequently will not go past this speed. When it's coaxed to go past 1600 it runs perfect, up to 6,500. When rpm's drop below 2500 it resumes the problem and doesn't want to go past 1600 again. It is getting progressively worse and very difficult to get it past 1600. It doesn't seem to be sensitive to temperature. This car is a daily driver and is in outstandingly good condition.
I gave my 944 turbo which had a idle problem. checked all the vacuum
attatchments, made sure all were connected. Checked coolant level.
Then cleaned the fuel pressure (part). ie the fuel rail attatchment, with carburettor cleaner then sprayed dry lube into it. Its running like a dream again. This part i am talking about has 3 inlets and is at the front of the fuel rail, when you take it out fuel runs out of it for a little while.
Hope this fixes the problem.
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If it's not a turbo, the vacuum lines for the damper and regulator go to the vacuum nipple on the throttle body that is underneath the assembly and on the manifold side of the throttle plate. The other vacuum hose that is connected there is ported, on the non manifold side of the plate. If it has vacuum when the throttle is closed, it is on the manifold side. You'll need a vacuum tee to join them into one hose to connect to throttle body nipple.
Often this kind of problem it is caused from faulty throttle position
sensor, you find out by connecting a code reader to your car computer.
throttle position sensor tells to your transmission control module how
you are using the throttle, so that the car automatic transmission can
shift to right gear, when this is faulty often you have transmission
faults related to engine rpms and temperature, this can explain a trans
problem happening only when engine is hot. In some case it is not the sensor, but the computer module controlling transmission that is faulty. To find out cause for the problem you need to connect a code reader to transmission module and to main computer module (ECU). The code reader will return fault codes that allow to locate the problem. this kind of job can be done at any qualified garage.
Drive gently and avoid high speeds.<br /><br />Your vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But following a few simple tips for the first 1,000 km (600 miles) can add to the future economy and long life of our vehicle.<br /><br />Avoid full throttle acceleration when starting and driving.<br /><br />Avoid racing the engine.<br /><br />Try to avoid hard stops during the first 300 km (200 miles).<br /><br />Do not drive slowly with the manual transmission in a high gear<br /><br />Do not drive for a long time at any single speed, either fast or slow.<br /><br />Do now tow a trailer during the first 800 km (500 miles).<br /><br />Good luck.<br />
check for codes this may help if their is one, some codes will set without turning on the check engines light.have the fuel pressure checked with a gage as a bad fuel pump will act this way. have the tps(throttle position sensor) checked for voltage dropouts as you move the throttle. the catalytic converter could be plugging up and need replacing. if you have an ignition problem usually a miss will be noticed. on other thing I can think of is possibly a transmission problem, I can only recall one that I`ve run across that this was the cause.
Check fluid level first. The throttle position sensor could be faulty or misadjusted.It should be .4 - .5 volts when fully closed and 4.0 volts wide open throttle.
Next check line pressure. Line pressure at idle in drive should be 61 - 67psi.
If the line pressure is ok it will be an internal problem.
normally your engine should not cause your car to wobble, however a misfire can cause this to happen, as far as your throttle cable, you need to replace it and check the transmission kick down cable (co located with throttle cable) replace if necessary. The jerking when shifting is probably due to incorrectly adjusted kick down cable, when adjusted correctly the transmission with shift smooth. Hope this helps, let me know
Not the turbo on it's last legs. Check the hoses that come off of your turbo that go into the intake. Fords are famous for the hose clamps that hold the hoses in place breaking or coming loose and the woosh sound you hear is the compressed air being forced out of the hose somewhere when the turbo spools up. When this occurs you probably don't have quite the pulling torque you should. You will notice quite a drop in performance. Check the hoses or rubber boot connections from your turbo.
Clean the IAC. Disconnect throttle body air hose and you will see a hole on the bottom of the throttle body just before the butterfly valve. Spray throttle body cleaner down the IAC hole and then let it soak about 1/2 hour. Reconnect hose and run engine about a minute and then repeat this process 2 or more times. Toyota engines from 1997-2005 commonly have the IAC get cruded up with carbon as early as 35,000 miles. This is a sImple and cheap repair that many repair shops don't want you to know.