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Re: high idling at low temp.
Offhand, yes this would be normal. The high idle is brought about by the auto choke whose purpose is to hasten the reaching of operating temperature of the engine. The fact that the idle RPM goes down after some time is a good indicator, it tells us that the auto choke is working.
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Yes, that is normal operation for an engine. It needs to run at higher idle when cold and the computer does that through the temp sender. Make sure it's not excessive due to any vacuum leaks. This and the AC power loss would be exaggerated if the engine is not running correctly.
This should be a drive by wire vehicle meaning it has a cable for the throttle body. First thing would be to see if any error codes can be pulled up (most parts stores will do that for free.) Drive by wire versus the late model that use electronic control for the idle have a IAC or idle air control which when first started controls the idle air intake--all air is run by it to idle the vehicle when cold--
Usual symptoms are rather high idle when cold engine or even idle and RPM jumping up and down and stalling when cold.
Another way if idle does drop when cold is tapping the gas--engine will still run until hot. Means not usually a fuel pump issue.
You could also have if the vehicle is fuel injected a dirty Mass air flow sensor, a throttle position sensor, etc.
These can be if the vehicle has them cleaned using a special zero residue spray cleaner.
First have it scanned to see what if any errors it shows--the computer.
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
turn off all electrical items (AC fan, audio, lights, defogger, etc.) Start the engine and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in park or Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on or the engine coolant gauge shows normal running temp.
Now let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 mins with no electrical loads. If the radiator fan cycles on during this time, you must add the fan running time to the 5 mins.
it seems that the auto choke setting is maybe wrong or there is a problem with engine management, or a worn part which is sticking.
when cold, the engine should be higher as the choke will be on but a warm up idle of 1200 seem a bit high i would expect around 800 and then on restart if the engine is warm then the choke should be off but the idle being too low indicates one of the above.
It could be 3 things: Temp sensor, thermostat, or fan relay. Fans don't usually turn on until car has been idleing for a while. I first would change thermostat, then relay, then temp sensor. Coolant must be 50/50 mixture for water pump to have proper lubricant from antifreezer. Do not go any further than a 60water/40antifreeze mix