Every time I turn the headLights on the CD player turns off. I had chek fuses, fuse box, headlights swich, harnes and cables that go to both, cables to the soket of every ligth for burns or short sircuit. Most all the electric component like the wipers,windos,lights, fans and locks. Exept the digital panel all I see there is the speedometer. any Ideas???
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Re: Head lights on CD player off
If you cut the wires to install the radio check to see if the wire you used as a ground for the radio turns to hot when you turn on the lights if this happens then the wire ypu used for ground is actually a backlight wire and you will need to find a new ground. please rate if this helps
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Your Corolla has daytime running lights (DRLs). A photocell determines whether it is day or night. Your DRLs turn on automatically in daytime without you operating the light control ("headlight") switch. Your DRLs are actually your headlights on low beam. At night, the photocell senses it is dark and disables the DRLs. When you set the light control ("headlight") switch to HEAD, the head relay closes and the headlights should turn on. Since they don't, I suggest opening the engine room junction block and checking the 40A MAIN fuse and the 10A LEFT HEAD (UPPER) and RIGHT HEAD (UPPER) fuses. In engine room relay block 5, check the 10A LH-LWR HEAD and RH-LWR HEAD fuses. Replace any blown fuses and the headlights should be working normally again
12V power passes through 15A fuse 33 (the one that keeps blowing?) in the battery junction box and on to the main light switch. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the park filaments of the dual park/turn lamps. These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.
The main light switch gets its 12V input from 7.5A fuse 11 in the central junction box and the same 15A fuse (33) identified above. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the instrument panel dimming module and module output is applied to the panel illuminating lamps.These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.
The input to fuse 33 is hot all the time so should read 12V. If you read 12V at the TAN/WHT connection with the fuse out, something is definitely not right. I'm sure you have noted that the fuse is common to the non-functioning circuits you mentioned.
the headlight pop-up circuit is different from the lights themselves. Check the headlight fuses in the engine compartment fuse box. If the fuses are good then check the headlight relay. It is in the same fuse box just behind the headlight fuses. (The headlight relay is the second relay from the right side of the fuse box. the relay at the far right is the electronic fuel injection main relay.)
Headlights are usually protected by self resetting circuit breaker instead of a throw away fuse. If you are certain of no dead short in the headlight circuit, the only other option is a new circuit breaker. Since you get various times of normal operation after the breaker resetts, I would suspect the breaker rather than a short.
THERE ARE 2 FUSE BOXES, 1 UNDER THE HOOD & 1 INSIDE THE CAR. TURN ON IGNITION SWITCH TEST EACH FUSE WITH A GOOD FUSE TESTER. FUSES CAN BE TESTED WITHOUT REMOVING THE FUSE FROM THE FUSE BOX. THERE ARE TEST POINTS ON EACH FUSE FACING OUT. POWER ON ONE SIDE OF THE FUSE, FUSE IS BAD. POWER ON BOTH SIDES OF THE FUSE IT'S O.K.
Check all the bulbs at tail end for parking and brakes, test grounds and harness for trailer. Check fuses. clean batery terminals, Re instal head light swich properly and make sure all wires conect.
The daytime running lights are usually the high beams, running at about 80% intensity. Your outer lights are the low beams. Check your fuse box and make sure you don't have blown fuses for the low beams. If the fuses are OK, check to be sure the bulbs are OK. If they are, I'd suspect either a dead or stuck headlight relay, or a bad lightswitch. Check the fuses and bulbs and post your results, and we can take it from there.