Question about Toyota Corolla
I have a 94 toyota corolla that when you disconnect the spark plug wire #4 the engines performance does'nt change n it's the same for injector #4 (the connector does work) , all the other wires n injectors do change the engines performance . I've changed the distributor cap, spark plugs , wires n rotor, the coil does work but I'm not sure on distributor itself. Spark plug #4 is black when changing it n white smoke comes out the tail pipe but not all the time . I tested the ohms on it , n it read at 17ohms once n the other times around 15 to14 the other ones read about 14.5 or so. Also if this has any reverence when turning the AC on the engine vibrates worst n when opening n or closing the windows. Can u please help me with any ideas , God bless .
Posted by Anonymous on
Should be idling roughly
engine check light on ?
faulty coil ok when cold no good when hot
do a compression test on number four
no compression on cylinder four
leaking intake or exhaust valves
the injector isnt working
if everything looks ok and no better
a blown head gasket
Posted on Mar 21, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dead cylinders 2003 sebring
it sounds like you may have the wires on the wrong coil. It should be #1 on the #4 coil, and the #3 wire on the #2 coil. you probably have them backwards so 1 and 3 are firing on the exhaust stroke.
the firing order is 1-3-4-2.
they should be hooked like this.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
The problem is it spark fuel or compression. the spark is first if it dont spark at the spark plug it's not going to run. if it's got strong spark then check fuel just add some to the air inlet and see if it tries to start. if it does your following the fuel pump to the injector pulse. if the injectors are shooting fuel and the plugs are wet with fuel and the plugs fire when tested the compression is in question. the timing chain could have skipped and you didn't mention the miles on the engine and what made you change the cap rotor and wires. The coil makes the spark and the crank senser on the upper driver side bell housing makes the trigger signal and it fails regular shorted. Look for the 5 volt senser voltage and the throtle position senser if it's not 5 volts unplug the crank senser behine the intake manafold near the firewall on the driver side if with the key on the TPS has the 5 volts the crank senser is shorted and the thing will run with a new senser. Takes lots of extensions and a 10 mm wobble socket to remove the two bolts from the bell houseing. Install the new senser and plug in everything that you unplugged and it'll run ( common problem )
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
Perform a valve clearance inspection and adjust if necessary. Tight or sticking valves will cause a misfire or rough running concern. Note: Perform valve adjustment when the engine is stone cold. 4cyl: INT 0.26mm EXH: 0.30mm (V6 engine are hydraulic and no adjust necessary.) Also check for a sticking or stuck open EGR valve. For diagnostic purposes only: Remove the EGR valve. Place a business card over the EGR passage and bolt the EGR valve back on. This plugs the EGR ports and if the misfire goes away the EGR valve is partially stuck open and is defective.
Check for low fuel pressure. Check for low compression. Check cam timing. Check for a weak ignition coil. Also don't over look the possibility of worn or broken engine mounts which cause excessive engine movement and engine vibration. -hope this helps
Posted on Mar 05, 2010
I had same problem and it turned out to be the "Spark Generator(module)" which was size of small wallet and can be seen under the hood in plain sight. Parts store price was $300-400. Salvage yard had box full of used ones @ $20-30 a piece.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
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