The ignition swith would not engage the starter, I removed the ignition switch from the steering collum and started the engine with a screwdriver but now it will not shift out of park. The brake lights do work. I replaced everything the way it was but it still won't shift. Any suggestions?? there seems to be too much play in the accuator rod from the ignition lock cylinder to the ignition switch. Is this related to the shifting problem?
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It sounds like you need to replace the ignition starter switch, the symptom you have is an exact fit, most models of Ford where recalled years ago for this problem.. The starter switch is at the base of the steering column under the dash and operated by a rod from the ignition key tumbler. Very cheap and easy to replace.
You should replace all the wires that are in that steering column. Use OEM wire harnesses. There is a clock spring wire in that column that is bad, The shift indicator is a clip on a piece of string that moves when the column turns with the shifter.
For one thing, disconnect the Negative battery terminal. See if it has any effect on the mechanism in the key/switch area.
There had to be a reason for working on the vehicle in the first place.
Ford uses an Interlock system which links the Transmission position, Brake pedal, and starter/keyswitch into 1 group. The usual problem with Ford makes is the Brake pedal lever switch under the dash is prone to damage by the Drivers foot.
This is usually revealed by the lack of Brake lights. The "command" for the Interlock to work on some Models starts when the Brake pedal is pressed. This allows the starter to engage if the Gearshift is in the proper position. But what can happen is parts slip from their intended position and prevent the Interlock from realigning for the next start. (Enough that the Key can't be removed)
Now if you have the adjustable ingnition switch, there should be slots on the housing of the Ignition switch. Say you did position the Ignition switch properly, but the Ignition switch moved by itself; it probably was pulled up or down the steering column by the linkage with the Gearshift Interlock.
The Ignition switch is at the top end of the Interlock rod or cable that the Ignition switch is attached to. You may be able to move the part from the bottom of the steering column and push the ignition key back into positon to free itself topside for removal.
Another idea is the spring release on the Ignition key lock cylinder. With the lock tumblers spread out from the stuck key, there may be enough play to allow the key to release. The spring loaded tumbler release is under the steering column plastic housing, a nail or drillbit will fit in the hole to allow for triggering the release mechanism.
Also if you have a tilt steering wheel, the Geometry of the position of the steering column may lengthen or shorten the Ignition Key rod inside the column. It may be worth an attempt at repositioning the tilt feature.
I hope my solution is helpful, please rate my idea.
The earlier Fords have a half moon shaped pot metal piece in the steering column that engages the ignition switch located just downstream from the keyed tumbler. When this piece breaks the key will turn, but it will turn easily with no resistance which you would normally feel as you turn the key. You would need to replace this piece to correct your problem. This requires removing the steering wheel to access the broken piece. This is a starting point. Hard to say without not being able to actually see your truck. Good luck. This half moon piece is prone to breakage.
Using a jumper wire, connect the S. terminal on the starter relay to the battery connection on the relay. the starter should engage. if it does not, your problem is between the starter relay and the starter itself. if it does engage, check your neutral safety switch if you have an automatic , or your clutch pedal switch if you have a standard shift.
There is a linkage in the steering column which interlocks with the ignition switch. On a vehicle this age, and given that Ford is prone to this problem, look here first. The pot-metal linkage rod often breaks.
Vehicle Battery Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Vehicle Battery Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Vehicle Ignition Wire (+): Red/Light Green
Vehicle Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Vehicle Second Ignition Wire (+): N/A
Vehicle Second Ignition Wire Location: N/A
Vehicle Accessory Wire (+): Gray/Yellow
Vehicle Accessory Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Vehicle Second Accessory Wire (+): N/A
Vehicle Second Accessory Wire Location: N/A
Automobile Engine Starter Wire (+): Red/Light Blue
Automobile Engine Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire (-): N/A
Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire Location: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System: None
Factory Anti-Theft System Type: None
Car Key Sense Wire (-): Black/Pink
Car Key Sense Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Car Neutral Safety Wire (+): N/A
Car Neutral Safety Wire Location: N/A
Car Tachometer Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Car Tachometer Wire Location: At Ignition Switch Control Module in Driver Fender Well
Car Speed Sense Wire: Gray/Black
Car Speed Sense Wire Location: Pin #3 at PCM Mounted on the Firewall
Car Parking Lights Wire (+): Brown
Car Parking Lights Wire Location: At Headlight Switch or Driver Side Kick Panel
Car Brake Lights Wire (+): Green
Car Brake Lights Wire Location: At Brake Switch Above the Pedal
Car Reverse Lights Wire (+): Black/Pink
Car Reverse Lights Wire Location: At Switch on Transmission
Car Horn Wire (-): Blue
Car Horn Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Sorry friend, this is as far as i can go to tel you how to hot wire the ignition. But with the color codes you should be able to figure it out, Good luck and keep me posted.