When hot, oil is moving down the sump cover. Could it be the main bearing seal having given in? If yes, could I have the clutch kit renewed at the same time, i.e. will it save me money having both problems rectified at the same time? The clutch kit needs renewal at some stage soon.
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where is it leaking from
in front of the b ell housing--- sump gasket
out of the bell housing drain hole --could be rear main seal or gear box input shaft seal
from down the side of the motor in front of the bell housing--- rocker cover gaskets
is the sump over full
Give more information. What car, what year model? If there is oil where the flywheel is, chances are you have a leaking rear main bearing oil seal or leaking gear box primary shaft oil seal. Coil packs? They should be there to make the car go.
This may be from excessive pressure in the sump from blow-by from the compression process . It is from a blocked PCV valve that is not equalising that pressure. I have also known oil leaks to happen because the rear main bearing cap is leaking oil past the join around the bolts (loose) or no sealing compound used in assembling the rear main bearing.. I would look at the PCV valve as it is the cheapest test first.. Check that the oil is not coming from the front gear box seal or torque converter seal.
If it is the front seal in the gear box then the box has to come out. The seal is in the extension housing that the clutch throw out bearing runs on and the seal can be replaced by removing that housing . However mostly if that seal leaks then the front bearing on the clutch shaft may be failing allowing the shaft to move and that is why the seal leaks. If the front of the box is dry then the oil leak may be the rear main seal of the engine so it is best to check both arrears as the oil leaks from the same point in the bell housing
Check the sump gasket at the rear of the sump tension sump bolts. Check that the rocker cover gasket is not leaking down the back of the engine and giving the appearance of a sump leak. Rear crank seal would be another point of leak and front input shaft (clutch shaft) seal leaking. Check the engine oil level and correct if necessary and check gear box oil level and correct if necessary. If you have an auto the oil will be pinkish and indicates a torque converter to gear box seal leaking.. Either of the shaft seals will require the box removal for repair.
if the front seal leak you can just replace the seal, if the timing cover is leaking then you will have to remove the cover. while you are in there, I suggest that you go ahead to replace the timing chain ( timing set ), seal and a new cover. parts cost less than 100 dollars.
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.