When hot, oil is moving down the sump cover. Could it be the main bearing seal having given in? If yes, could I have the clutch kit renewed at the same time, i.e. will it save me money having both problems rectified at the same time? The clutch kit needs renewal at some stage soon.
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it is hard to diagnose with so many listed faults
first up slipping when hot indicates a weak pressure plate tension but the reasons o slipping when hot may start at a bad clutch master cylinder not fully allowing the brake fluid back to the reservoir ( blocked compensating port)
that creates a catch 22 situation where the pressure place is not fully engaged and so it slips marginally and that builds up friction heat which in tern cause what is called brake fade . In other words the friction surface ( clutch plate facing) cannot absorb any more heat and so it slips
moving on , the slippage can be from excessive oil on the linings but if that is the case it will slip or grab ( shudder) on take off
The oil will most likely be from from a front input shaft seal and that may be from failing oil seal or overfull transmission or blocked breather for the transmission
seal generally will produce a oil mist in the bell housing after time but adding to your statement of hard to get/change gears I suspect that the oil leak could be from a failing front shaft bearing of the transmission not allowing the seal to work properly
To sum up , the transmission will have to come out and the clutch kit and throwout bearing replaced
from the slippage I would recommend that the flywheel clutch face be machine to remove high hot spots and that combination will give a smooth clutch operation at this point if there are signs of a rear main seal leaking , replace it before the flywheel is refitted
remove the extension housing that the throw bearing slides on and the seal is in that housing
that front bearing can be checked also and if in doubt , overhaul the bearings in the transmission
(visible damage to the bearing cage will be evident here indicating a failing bearing)
when finished replace the clutch master cylinder if more than 5 years old since replacement
sorry not good news and it will amount to a costly exercise but there are no short cuts to a good reliable jib
where is it leaking from
in front of the b ell housing--- sump gasket
out of the bell housing drain hole --could be rear main seal or gear box input shaft seal
from down the side of the motor in front of the bell housing--- rocker cover gaskets
is the sump over full
Give more information. What car, what year model? If there is oil where the flywheel is, chances are you have a leaking rear main bearing oil seal or leaking gear box primary shaft oil seal. Coil packs? They should be there to make the car go.
This may be from excessive pressure in the sump from blow-by from the compression process . It is from a blocked PCV valve that is not equalising that pressure. I have also known oil leaks to happen because the rear main bearing cap is leaking oil past the join around the bolts (loose) or no sealing compound used in assembling the rear main bearing.. I would look at the PCV valve as it is the cheapest test first.. Check that the oil is not coming from the front gear box seal or torque converter seal.
If it is the front seal in the gear box then the box has to come out. The seal is in the extension housing that the clutch throw out bearing runs on and the seal can be replaced by removing that housing . However mostly if that seal leaks then the front bearing on the clutch shaft may be failing allowing the shaft to move and that is why the seal leaks. If the front of the box is dry then the oil leak may be the rear main seal of the engine so it is best to check both arrears as the oil leaks from the same point in the bell housing
Check the sump gasket at the rear of the sump tension sump bolts. Check that the rocker cover gasket is not leaking down the back of the engine and giving the appearance of a sump leak. Rear crank seal would be another point of leak and front input shaft (clutch shaft) seal leaking. Check the engine oil level and correct if necessary and check gear box oil level and correct if necessary. If you have an auto the oil will be pinkish and indicates a torque converter to gear box seal leaking.. Either of the shaft seals will require the box removal for repair.
if the front seal leak you can just replace the seal, if the timing cover is leaking then you will have to remove the cover. while you are in there, I suggest that you go ahead to replace the timing chain ( timing set ), seal and a new cover. parts cost less than 100 dollars.
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.