I am facing problem in dipstick guide, while torquing nut of dipstick guide to the adaptor which is fixed in engine block, dipstick guide get stressed in one direction & lower portion which is in contact to nut gets rotate with nut. My torque value is 18 Nm.
My investigations: 1. Nut thread length 12.5mm, 10 full threads, Nut length 14mm 2. Adaptor thread length 14 full threads. 3. Dipstick guide diameter 9mm.
I am facing this problem for last one year & lots of wastage is theredue to failure.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Dipstick guide gets bend while torquing
Never mind reading the book and working to it ,you are obviously doing it wrong by over tightening it when re-building engines or anything mechanical you work by feel,knowing the metals used and what stress and vibration levels they have to withstand.just tighten it with a small spanner and dont be so heavy handed, firm pull and thats it
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Since the dipstick tube is a slide in fit, you will need to drop the oil pan to work the rest of the part out.
1) drain the oil
2) remove the bolts holding the oil pan (once they are all out, you might need to tap the pan to get it to release from the block-my brother's 97 camry was like this)
3) Remove the pan and look up for the dipstick tube end, spray it good with some WD-40, let it sit for a few minutes. The photo shows some pretty bad corrosion in your case.
4) with a set of channel lock pliers, begin to work the tube out. Take your time, you will be pushing out, not trying to pull the piece through.
5) once it is out, clean the edges of the dipstick tube opening.
6) Install new dipstick tube. ensure you have a good fit around the tube. otherwise, the crankcase pressure will squirt oil through.
7) Scrape off the old gasket from the oil pan and the face of the bottom of the engine.
8) lay the new gasket on the oil pan and begin to bolt it back on. Get the bolts in finger tight, then alternate torquing them down to ensure an even seal.
9) change oil filter and fill with new oil
Several ideas...use a very small hole adaptor end on a shop vac to get major suction and **** that dipstick out, ....or.....try to find a big magnet and see if that works to get it out....or....more messy..if you follow the tube that the dipstick is in..follow it down to where it goes into the engine...if you twist it, the whole tube and dipstick should come out, then replace it, and get a new dipstick from an auto wrecker...or from the dealer
Place the drain pan under the radiator petcock. Open the petcock and allow the antifreeze to drain. If the drain pan is clean and the antifreeze is less than five years old, you can reuse the antifreeze.
Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Slide the jack under the engine and raise the engine slightly. Unbolt and remove the front engine mount. On the 4A-GE engine, loosen the power steering and air conditioning belts by loosening the adjusting nuts or bolts on the slider bracket and sliding the accessory toward the engine. Remove the belts.
3Loosen the water pump pulley bolts with the appropriate socket. Loosen the alternator locking bolt and the pivot nut. Push the alternator toward the engine to loosen the tension on the belt. Lift the belt off the pulleys.
Remove the four bolts on the water pump pulley using the appropriate socket. Remove the water pump pulley. Disconnect the water inlet and bypass hoses from the inlet pipe using a screwdriver or pliers, depending on the type of clamp used.
Disconnect the water inlet pipe by removing the two clamp bolts and the two nuts behind the pump. Remove the inlet pipe. Remove the O-ring from the back of the pump. Remove the mounting bolt on the oil dipstick tube. Remove the tube and the dipstick. Plug the hole with a rag so that debris doesn't get into the crankcase and contaminate the oil.
Remove the upper and middle timing belt covers. Remove the water pump retaining bolts and pull the pump off the engine. Take care not to get any antifreeze on the timing belt.
Place the O-ring in its groove on the block. Install the water pump and tighten the bolts to 11 ft.-lbs. of torque. Reinstall the timing belt covers. Make sure they are seated properly and not touching the timing belt.
Coat a new oil dipstick O-ring with engine oil. Slide it on the dipstick. Reinstall the dipstick and the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 82 in.-lbs. of torque. Place a new O-ring on the inlet pipe for the water pump. Reinstall the inlet pipe. Attach the clamps and bolts that hold the pipe in place. Tighten the bolts to 8 ft.-lbs. of torque.
Reconnect the inlet and bypass hoses to the pipe. Install the water pump pulley. Tighten the four pulley bolts enough to hold everything in place. Reinstall all the accessory drive belts and adjust the tension properly. You should be able to turn the belts 90 degrees when they are at the correct tension. The water pump should resist turning. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 17 ft.-lbs. of torque. Reinstall the engine mount. Tighten the petcock on the radiator. Refill the radiator.
Replacing a water pump is not to bad, but it can be quite a chore if you are not some what mechanically incline. So, what I am going to do is give you this link, that is real good and I have forwarded a lot of my customers here, because its got some pictures as well as pretty step by step instructions. Of course every car is a little bit different, but concept is the same. I myself tell people that if they do not have some good tools and good mechanical ability and common sense, it is in some cases to have this one done by a pro. Auto Zone for free can get you the exact look at design for your car, but I am sure this link I will give you, is a good format to follow if you have some mechanical ability. Here is the link to copy and paste in your browser and go from there. I hope this helps. Mike from FIXYA. http://www.automedia.com/Water_Pump_Replacement/ccr20011101wp/1
According to the service literature I read, the 2003 Montero Sport with the 3.0 or 3.5 L engine does not have O2 sensors listed even in the maintenance schedule. The 2.4 L engine has it on the exhaust manifold though. --- However, the following lists the par, though for before or after the catalytic converter:
--- I think that $250 to $300 is reasonable if the Oxygen sensors are stuck in there with rust and the threads are preserved by the technician. Oxygen Sensor replacement can be tricky. --- Good luck on this repair.
is the trans dipstick tube in the trans ? are you talking about the grommet at the bottom of the dipstick tube ? that goes in the trans first then push in the tube . if your talking about the dipstick itself wont go into the tube try slightly bending the tip and push it into the tube