I had cruise control fitted onto my Audi A2 yesterday. They cut the fitting clip supplied and bridged the connection to the fuse box instead. Will this cause any problems and/or is this standard practice and safe?
p.s. sorry for the confusion with the discrepancy in the products category, only it never had the A2 listed as an option.
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This sounds like as you have explained the removal of the factory fitted stereo is connected to the controls/ steering column by fitting the new stereo some electrical items remain unconnected. The volume control may be in circuit. I have experienced this before on other models when fitting non factory extras.
Important: • Do
not reuse any of the existing retaining rings that were removed from
the existing quick connect fittings. All retaining rings being installed
must be new. • Ensure the following procedures are performed when installing the new retaining rings onto the fittings.
Install a new retaining ring (E-clip) into the quick connect fitting using the following procedure:
Hook one of the open ends of retaining ring in one of the slots in the quick connect fitting.
the retaining ring around the fitting until the retaining ring is
positioned with all three ears through the three slots on the fitting.
Do not install the new retaining ring onto the fitting by pushing the retaining ring.
that the three retaining ring ears are seen from inside the fitting and
that the retaining ring moves freely in the fitting slots.
Install the new retaining ring (E-clip) into the remaining quick connect fittings. Notice: Ensure that the cooler
line being installed has a plastic cap on each end that connects to a
quick connect fitting. If no plastic cap exists, or the plastic cap is
damaged, obtain a new plastic cap and position on to the cooler line
prior to the cooler line installation.
Install the transaxle oil cooler pipes to the vehicle.
Install the transaxle oil cooler pipe into the quick connect fitting.
Insert the transaxle oil cooler pipe end into the quick connect fitting until a click is either heard or felt.
Do not use the plastic cap on the transaxle oil cooler pipe in order to install the transaxle oil cooler pipe into the fitting.
back sharply on the transaxle oil cooler pipe in order to ensure that
the transaxle oil cooler pipe is fastened into the quick connect
(snap) the plastic cap onto the fitting. Do not manually depress the
retaining ring when installing the plastic cap onto the quick connect
Ensure that the plastic cap is fully seated against the fitting.
Ensure that no gap is present between the cap and the fitting.
that the yellow identification band on the tube is hidden within the
quick connect fitting. A hidden yellow identification band indicates
proper joint seating.
My experience says "Yes" to adding the factory cruise control set up...you might use your friend's Jag as a great comparison to the needed parts and installation...If you have difficulty locating the factory parts...try a salvage dealer on line...Your model can also be fitted to aftermarket cruise control. Sometimes the aftermarket cruise is less costly, and can be installed by Ziebart or other vendors. You might compare the cost, and the final look. Hope this helps.
i have fitted an "admesh" brand mesh grille and spoiler on my fathers 2004 X type.
the mesh in the spoiler would have just fitted over the existing plastic grille using the supplied clips, if the original grille had not been damaged. i just removed unscrewed the original grille and fitted the mesh one using the same fittings.
for the main grille, i removed the grill from the car (4 screws) and cut out the centre plastic vanes before fitting the new mesh one to it using the supplied clips. i then screwed the whole unit back in place. it took about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish for both mesh grills. the instructions were quite clear and most helpful.
i do not know which kit you have so do not know specific fitting instructions, but as far as i am aware, most kits would fit in a simillar way and should not be to difficult to fit with a little care.
this is for a 3.8 GS the fuel filter is located near the right rear tire
RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
open the trunk. on the driver side pull back the carpet and you find the fuel cut switch. take your open hand and slap the side of the switch. it should pop up. now get in the car ans start it and run it till it stops. when it dies try to start once more.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the push connect fittings at both ends of the fuel filter. This is accomplished by removing the hairpin clips from the fittings. Remove the hairpin clips by first bending, and then breaking the shipping tabs on the clips. Spread the 2 clip legs approximately 1 / 8 in. (3mm) to disengage the body and push the legs into the fitting. Gently pull on the triangular end of the clip and work it clear of the fitting.
Remove the filter from the mounting bracket by loosening the worm gear mounting clamp enough to allow the filter to pass through
detach lines from fuel filter. move small bucket or whatever to catch what left in lines ( filter will still have gas in it)
Install the new filter in the mounting bracket, ensuring that the flow direction arrow is pointing forward. Locate the fuel filter against the tab at the lower end of the bracket.
Insert a new hairpin clip into any 2 adjacent openings on each push connect fitting, with the triangular portion of the clip pointing away from the fitting opening. Install the clip to fully engage the body of the fitting. This is indicated by the legs of the hairpin clip being locked on the outside of the fitting body. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the ends of the fuel filter, then push the fittings onto the ends of the filter. When the fittings are engaged, a definite click will be heard. Pull on the fittings to ensure that they are fully engaged.
Tighten the worm gear mounting clamp to 15-25 inch lbs. (1.7-2.8 Nm)
open the trunk again and push the button on the fuel switch down and reconnect the battery and start the engine and check for leaks
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove the push connect fittings at both ends of the fuel filter. This is accomplished by removing the hairpin clips from the fittings. Remove the hairpin clips by first bending and then breaking the shipping tabs on the clips. Then spread the 2 clip legs approximately 1?8 in. (3mm) to disengage the body and push the legs into the fitting. Pull on the triangular end of the clip and work it clear of the fitting.
Remove the filter from the mounting bracket by loosening the worm gear mounting clamp enough to allow the filter to pass through.
Install the filter in the mounting bracket, ensuring that the flow direction arrow is pointing forward. Locate the fuel filter against the tab at the lower end of the bracket.
Insert a new hairpin clip into any 2 adjacent openings on each push connect fitting, with the triangular portion of the clip pointing away from the fitting opening. Install the clip to fully engage the body of the fitting. This is indicated by the legs of the hairpin clip being locked on the outside of the fitting body. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the ends of the fuel filter and then push the fittings onto the ends of the fuel filter. When the fittings are engaged, a definite click will be heard. Pull on the fittings to ensure that they are fully engaged.
Tighten the worm gear mounting clamp to 15-25 inch lbs. (1.7-2.8 Nm).
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Fuel Pump requires dropping the gas tank to access.
Fuel Filter REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Never smoke when working around or near gasoline! Make sure that there is no igniting source near your work area!
Fuel Injected Engines
The fuel filter is of a one-piece construction which cannot be cleaned. If it becomes clogged, it must be removed and replaced. When replacing the fuel filter use the filter specified for the engine being serviced.
The inline filter is mounted on the same bracket as the fuel supply pump. It is on the frame rail under passenger side of the vehicle, in front of the fuel tank. To replace the filter:
Fig. 4: Whenever you see a warning label, read it
CAUTION Fuel supply lines on fuel injected vehicles will remain pressurized for some time after the engine is shut off. Fuel pressure must be relieved before servicing the fuel system.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Relieve the fuel system pressure as follows:
Remove the fuel tank cap to relieve any pressure in the fuel tank.
Remove the cap from the Schrader valve located on the fuel injection supply manifold in the engine compartment.
Attach fuel pressure gauge T80L–9974–A or equivalent, to the Schrader valve and drain the fuel through the drain tube into a suitable container.
After the fuel system pressure is relieved, remove the fuel pressure gauge and install the cap on the Schrader valve.
Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
Disconnect the fittings from both ends of the fuel filter as follows:
Inspect the visible portion of the fitting for dirt accumulation. If more than a light coating of dust is present, clean the fitting before disassembly.
Some adhesion between the seals in the fitting and the filter will occur with time. To separate, twist the fitting on the filter, then push and pull the fitting until it moves freely on the filter.
Remove the hairpin clip from the fitting by first bending and breaking the shipping tab. Next, spread the 2 clip legs by hand about 1⁄8 in. (3.1mm) each to disengage the body, then push the legs into the fitting. Lightly pull the triangular end of the clip and work it clear of the filter and fitting.
NOTE: Do not use hand tools to complete this operation. Damage to the fittings may result.
Grasp the fitting and pull in an axial direction to remove the fitting from the filter. Be careful on 90°elbow connectors, as excessive side loading could break the connector body.
After disassembly, inspect the inside of the fitting for any internal parts such as O-rings and/or spacers that may have been dislodged from the fitting. Replace any damaged connector(s).
Fig. 5: Carefully remove the hairpin clip
Fig. 6: With a rag under the hose to catch any gasoline spillage, slowly separate the line from the filter
If equipped, remove the filter retainer bolts and remove the filter and retainer from the mounting bracket. Remove the filter from the retainer. Note that the direction of the flow arrow on the fuel filter. Remove the rubber insulator rings, if installed. Inspect the rings for cracks or wear, and replace if needed.
Fig. 7: Remove the hardware securing the filter to the housing
Fig. 8: Lower the filter assembly, then separate the pieces
Install the fuel filter with the flow arrow facing the proper direction as before, then tighten the filter retaining clamp(s).
If the original filter was equipped with rubber insulator rings, install the rubber insulator rings on the new filter. Install the filter into the retainer with the flow arrow pointing in the correct direction. Install the retainer on the bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to 27–44 inch lbs. (3–5 Nm).
Connect the fittings at both ends of the fuel filter as follows:
Install a new connector if damage was found. Insert a new clip into any 2 adjacent openings with the triangular portion pointing away from the fitting opening. Install the clip until the legs of the clip are locked on the outside of the body. Piloting with an index finger is necessary.
Before installing the fitting on the filter, wipe the filter end with a clean cloth. Inspect the inside of the fitting to make sure it is free of dirt and/or obstructions.
Apply a light coating of engine oil to the filter end. Align the fitting and filter axially and push the fitting onto the filter end. When the fitting is engaged, a definite click will be heard. Pull on the fitting to make sure it is fully engaged.
Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
The cable was probably not reattached to the throttle body, or the wiring for the cruise module was not plugged back in. The VW/Audi cruise control system does not use engine vacuum, it uses it's own vacuum pump. Vacuum runs from the pump/control module to the vacuum reservoir that pulls on the throttle cable. The is also another vacuum line that runs to the brake pedal, which is a safety feature (press the brake pedal and the vacuum to the vacuum reservoir is instantly cut, releasing the throttle and disengaging the cruise control.)
I have an Audi A4 with factory fitted parking sensors that emit a long beep when reverse gear is selected (so this tells me I have a fault) where do I find the control box to remove a sensor at a time to find which one or more are faulty?
Clean all dirt and/or grease from the
fuel filter fittings. "Quick Connect" fittings are used on models
equipped with a pressurized fuel system. These fittings must be
disconnected using the proper procedure or the fittings may be damaged.
The fuel filter uses a "hairpin" clip retainer. Spread the two hairpin
clip legs about 1/8 in. (3mm) each to disengage
it from the fitting, then pull the clip outward. Use finger pressure
only; do not use any tools. Push the quick connect fittings onto the
filter ends. Mazda recommends that the retaining clips be replaced
whenever removed. The fuel tubes used on these fuel systems are
manufactured in 5/16 in. and 3/8
in. diameters. Each fuel tube takes a different size hairpin clip, so
keep this in mind when purchasing new clips. A click will be heard when
the hairpin clip snaps into its proper position. Pull on the lines with
moderate pressure to ensure proper connection. Start the engine and
check for fuel leaks. If the inertia switch (reset switch) was
disconnected to relieve the fuel system pressure, cycle the ignition
switch from the OFF to ON position several times to re-charge the fuel system before attempting to start the engine. Remove the "hairpin" clip retainers to access the fuel line fittingsThe
inline reservoir type fuel filter should last the life of the vehicle
under normal driving conditions. If the filter does need to be
replaced, proceed as follows:
the fuel filter is being serviced with the rear of the vehicle higher
than the front, or if the tank is pressurized, fuel leakage or
siphoning from the tank fuel lines could occur. to prevent this
condition, maintain the vehicle front end at or above the level of the
rear of vehicle. also, relieve tank pressure by loosening the fuel fill
cap. cap should be tightened after pressure is relieved.
Shut the engine off. Depressurize the fuel system.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
the fuel lines from both ends of the fuel filter by disengaging both
push connect fittings. Install new retainer clips in each push connect
Note which way the flow direction arrow points on the old filter.
Remove the filter from the bracket by loosening the filter retaining clamp enough to allow the filter to pass through.
flow direction arrow should be positioned as installed in the bracket
to ensure proper flow of fuel through the replacement filter.
Install the filter in the bracket, ensuring proper direction of flow as noted by arrow. Tighten clamp to 15-25 inch lbs.
Install the push connect fittings at both ends of the filter.
Lower the vehicle.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Push connect and R-clip fittings from the fuel filter
Fuel filter location and connections–2002–2006
Install or connect the following:
Fuel filter. Torque the nut to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
R-clip and push connect fittings
Negative battery cable
Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.