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All the other windows work ? Not a fuse , one fuse powers all the windows . Test for B+ voltage at the switch an the window regulator would be the proper diagnostic procedure . Do you own a volt meter ? know how to read a wiring diagram ? how to do basic automotive electrical testing . The Faint click you hear is probably a relay , which means the GEM - genaric electronic modual is energizing the window relay . The windows are computer controlled .
The GEM will activate the OTD Relay until one of the following conditions is met:
The LF regulator control switch is pushed to the UP position.
The LF regulator control switch is released (OFF position) and then moved to the down position (first detent) or one touch down (OTD) position (second detent).
Seven seconds have elapsed since the OTD was initiated.
A window regulator electric drive stall condition is detected on the one touch down sense line inputs.
The UP window operation is not controlled by the GEM. The feature is activated when the delayed accessory is active and the LF window regulator control switch is pressed to the UP position. The switch provides delayed accessory power to one side of the motor and ground to the other side through the one touch down relay. The one touch down relay is not active when the LF regulator control switch is in the UP position.
Passenger windows may be raised or lowered using the LF master control switches or the appropriate passenger window switch. Passenger window switches receive power when the delayed accessory relay is active and the LF remote lock-out switch is in the UNLOCK position. When in the LOCK-OUT position, the passenger windows are deactivated.
The GEM controls manual down and auto down window movement with the down window relay. The relay is activated by applying ground directly to one side of the down window relay coil, and deactivated by removing the ground signal.
The delayed accessory relay provides power for the operation of the power windows and the power moon roof. The delayed accessory feature is active when the ignition switch is in the RUN or the ACC position, or when the ignition switch is changed from RUN or ACC to the OFF/LOCK position and the LF and RF doors are closed.
The GEM will deactivate the delayed accessory feature when:
the LF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
the RF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
10 minutes have elapsed since the ignition switch was changed from ACC or RUN to the OFF/LOCK position.
LF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
RF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
Ignition switch RUN position (battery potential on both the RUN and RUN/ACC inputs).
Ignition switch ACC position (battery potential on the RUN/ACC input).
Ignition switch OFF/LOCK position (absence of battery potential on the RUN, RUN/ACC, and START inputs).
Those are accessory functions working off the ignition switch when in accessory position or run position of the key. Were you to check if the wiper and radio fuse had power to them in the run or accessory position as they should, likely they would not. Power from the switch goes to the fuse panel, powering the fuses and circuits that only work with key in on or acc., either a direct wire to the fuse panel or sometimes, fuses get power from an accessory relay that sends power to fuses, but relay has to get a signal from a good working switch before it powers the fuses. What I'm trying to say, is the bad switch is probably the reason you have no wipers, radio, or mirrors.
Hooked all wires up right??? Fuse is fine??? Somehow, I do not think this is the case. I wish I had a dollar for every time I have seen this happen....I would be a VERY rich man!
You do not need a dome lamp diagram. You need to replace Fuse #13 (10 Amp) in the Power Distribution Center in the engine compartment. This will make the power return to the PINK wire and get your dome lamps working.
The only way that the RED/WHITE wire is going to have power with the ignition switch off is if either the ignition switch is shorted to power or the RED/WHITE wire got hot enough to melt the insulation in the wire harness and short to another B+ wire. This wire is supposed to have power when the ignition switch is in the RUN and ACC positions. Make sure it is in the OFF position. If this wire still has power, then YES, you probably smoked the wiring harness. If this is the case, the dash should be removed so that full access to the wiring harness can be achieved, allowing a full inspection/repair of ALL of the damage (there are most likely several other wires in the harness that have also been damaged).
Maybe the ignition switch burned up. A lot of juice travels through them and it has happened.
What is confusing is, lights will work without the switch. You should be able to turn lights on without the key in the ignition. But a radio normally needs the ignition turned to ACC (accessory) or ON. And some when left on don't turn off with the key off until the door is opened.
Possibly the ignition melted and is affected to where the radio still gets power as if it was in the ACC position
The stereo should only really come on when the key is at least in the ACC position. If it was like this before and now bypasses this position, I would say that the ACC contacts in the switch have failed in the closed position, There would not normally be a relay for that purpose. If it was like that before, the radio power has been taken from the wrong power supply and you need to find the ACC wire coming off the ignition switch.
when you turn key to acc pos that is telling the ignition to go into a accessory mode which runs the radio,wipers etc... but it doesnt allow the ignition circuit to run, and the key in most vehicles will not be able to come out,this is a security protection so that you do not leave accessories on that will drain the battery. The ignition key should only be able to be removed in the OFF position.
key switch?then turn the key to acc,first spot where the radio comes on ,then pull off the plastic steering column cover on the bottom just under the switch,and push a paper clip in the tiny hole under the switch and wiggle the key switch out.if you dont have a key i would recommend a lock smith to pull out the switch because the switch has to turn to acc in order to remove it...if you are talking about the actual ignition switch,its at the bottom of the steering column with 2 little bolts and 1 long wiring plug
Hi there If it was the front dash mounted lighter socket you used, the correct fuse is the 15A CIG & RADIO fuse (at the end of the second row) of the dash fusebox. If replacing the fuse hasn't fixed it, you may need to look closer at the wiring from the fusebox as it's likely the wiring has gone open circuit. Take the fuse out and check for voltage at the terminals in the fusebox with the ingition key turned to the ACC position. One terminal or the other will have 12V on it. If no voltage on either you have a fusebox to ignition key wiring problem. Check for voltage on the ACC pin of the ignition switch, with the key turned to the ACC position. That's pin 3, a blue wire, of the 8 pin ignition switch connector. If still no volatge the switch is likely faulty. the voltage into the switch must be there as it also feeds the ECU and IGN systems, so the car wouldn't run at all if it wasn't.
There is another possibility. If you have an alarm system, immobilizer or turbo timer (assuming the GTT model) these devices could be interrupting the power lines and be the culprit devices.
I assume it wasn't the rear hatch area lighter socket you used, because the fuse for that doesn't power the radio or clock. The fuse for that socket is the 15A ACCESSORY fuse in the passenger side footwell fuse panel.