Re: 1963 Ford Falcon heater will not blow warm air. 180...
A common problem could be the heater lines are clogged with debris, given the age of a 63 ford, you could change the rubber heater hoses that go to the heater core and see if that helps, if not, flush the heating hoses going to/from the engine,radiator
I've hade to do this to a 69 ford fairlane, and it was realatively simple to do
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This sounds like a thermostat that is fully open all the time. It allows the engine coolant to warm when sitting still (no air being forced thru the radiator), but even that goes away when moving, since the air through the radiator will remove that heat from the coolant. Does you van have a temp gauge? Is so, at full operating temp. most vehicles have coolant temps of 180-195 degrees F, depending on the thermostat installed. Anything less indicates a thermostat that is starting to malfunction.
Even though you already flushed it I will bet the heater core has build up in it. My escort did that and i had to hook a garden hose direct to the heater core and flush it with dawn dish soap both directions several times untill all the slimy old antifreeze inside it finally broke loose and came out. Then it worked great
First, if the engine seems to take forever to warm up, you may have a stuck (open) thermostat. Replacing the thermostat would help get your engine to warm up quickly and maintain the proper running temperature of about 180 deg F. This would solve your heater woes.
However, if the engine warms up normally but the heater just doesn't seem to put out, check the heater inlet valve. This valve is usually next to the firewall on the engine side and is activated by cable(s) or vacuum lines. It is common to find that the valve cables have frozen, the cable ends have broken off, or the vacuum lines are disconnected or broken. Another common problem on vacuum run valves is that the vacuum diaphragm that operates the valve has failed. The diaphragm won't "hold a vacuum" meaning that it leaks and won't operate the heater valve.
If all that seems to work okay. The heater core could be getting warm coolant through it but the underdash heater air handler box has a movable door inside that is not in the requested position. These doors are operated by cables or vacuum lines---so same checkout as above.
is your engine antifreeze at correct levels is thermostat opening and closeing at correct engine temp theres a little door up inside your air duck that switchs it self when you switch from ac to heat it may be stuck open
Could be thermostat. Even though you had it replaced the recommened temp is 192. You probably have a thermostat with an alternative temp of 160 or 180. This will make your car run alot cooler than it should.
Sounds like either the valve which lets water into the heater core is not working properly or the vacuum operated door which directs blower motor air over the heater core is not opening, Could be a vacuum hose loose or it has a hole in it.