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Re: my engine is shaking more then usual.
Sounds like you need to get your valve/rocker clearances reset as the toyotas valves tend to sink into the seats and it reduces the clearance so the valves are opening and closing too soon.Not sure if youve checked that your H/T leads arnt tracking out and in good condition.Good luck and let me know how it goes
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I really need to know the mileage.....?..also the question isn't very clear ...Is the whole truck shaking roughly or is the engine shaking roughly or is it both the engine and truck shaking..?..Since I am not sure I will answer what I can....Ok......If the truck is shaking while sitting still at idle the engine/trans mounts could be worn and or loose mounting hardware...If the engine is running roughly at idle causing all to shake that bad it could be a number of things causing it as usual...Quite often a faulty plug wire/and or bad plug will make it have a misfire because it will be running on only 5 cylinders..If that's the case it could be more than one bad...A vacuum leak will cause it to perform in the same manner...however all cylinders will be firing..Normally a vacuum leak is easy to pinpoint..however it could be a faulty IAC valve..(IDLE AIR CONTROL)..The idle air control is designed to hold a high idle at start up then slowly bring idle down to proper Rpm.....A faulty TPS (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR) will also cause a rough running problem..And let's not forget the O2 sensor..(OXYGEN SENSOR)..The O2 sensor controls air/fuel mixture...and yes an exhaust manifold gasket will make it run rough but not too bad...It has a rough running sound more so than causing it to horribly shake..It will shake but not to bad..
it is located at the exhaust side of engine..The exhaust manifold is mounted to the engine exhaust port..the exhaust pipe is mounted to the exhaust manifold and the muffler/cat converter is mounted to the exhaust pipe...You can check the plug wires quickly..With engine running carefully remove plug wires 1 at a time..If the sound of engine gets worse the wire you removed is good..after verifying it is good or bad plug wire back on then pull the next wire..and so on..If you pull a wire off and there is no change in engine operation that is the bad wire..If that is the case change all plugs and wires...One at a time..(It is a good idea to make sure all wires come off easily before starting engine..old wires will come apart easily..grasp wire tightly at boot and twist left to right while pulling..)as far as the other components I spoke as well as many others,the best,easy way is to have it hooked to a scanner and they can check/test all components for proper operation...Now..If it runs good but is shaking the engine/trans mounts are worn as I stated earlier..any loose engine component will cause an engine shake also but you should notice it at a glance...engine mount bolts/nuts being loose can be tightened without changing mounts if caught in time..Trans could be coming loose.also worn clutch will cause vibration...Send more info and I can guide you to remove and replace any faulty components you may find to save you money.........Brooks/Metalpoet.....
The cause is too low an idle and engine is starving for fuel so it shakes like that.The thumping sound you hear is most likely just the exhaust being too close to the floor amd bumping against it when in drive with brake on.You said yourself that it stops when you put it in nuetral,well the engine speed goes up when there's no stress on it.With some one holding the brake and it's sitting there thumping,set the idle speed up just enough to make the engine stop rocking that way.
I would start by having the tires carefully inspected and balanced if needed. A tire that has a broken internal steel cord can develop a lump or wave in the tread face which will cause the steering wheel to shake as the vehicle speed increases. Usually a tire that is developing such a problem is very close to failing completely [flat or blow-out] so have them checked as soon as possible. An out of balance tire usually just causes a general vibration or shake but can cause bigger problems depending on how out of balance they might be. Worn tie rod ends or other suspension components can cause a similar shake so have those items checked at the same time. Worn struts usually won't cause the shake you are describing but can cause the car to handle quite poorly and bounce excessively on bumpy roads. Wheel bearings often [but not always] make a grumbling/growling kind of noise as they start to go bad but usually won't cause a shake. A good inspection should quickly pinpoint the cause of the problem
which pipe, i assume you are referring to an exhaust pipe, do u have a loud (more than usual) exhaust sound, if so, the exhaust pipe is cracked or split, if not, then the exhaust hangers (mahe of heavy duty rubber) are split/broken, causing it to shake OR is the engine shaking as well, or just the exhaust, too many questions, need to specify
When the engine is cold, go under the car and try to shake the exhaust system at the approximate spot you hear the rattle coming from. It is most likely a heat shield for the exhaust, or a broken (rusted through) hanger for the exhaust making the noise you describe. You can probably correct it with a wire or couple of screws to secure the shield, or replace a hanger.
could be coming from 3 spots
1 engine mounts = mounts go bad try shaking the motor when its cold to see if you can hear it
2 brakes = sometimes brake hardware can come loose or rust away mo so in brake drums in the back
3 exhaust shield = there is a thin shield around parts of the exhaust while it cold shake the tail pipe to see if you hear it