Question about 1999 Nissan Pathfinder

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How to loosen the brake shoes

How do you loosen the brake shoes through the small dust cap in behind?
Or is there another way, I tried to bleed the fluid by pressing on the brake (May not have been the brightest thing I've done)

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  • ehfunk Nov 21, 2008

    Any chance on a picture/diagram/description of where the catch on the gear is?

  • ehfunk Nov 23, 2008

    FYI
    On a 99 Pathfinder the star wheel is on the top of the drum. The catch is under and behind the star wheel. You need a funky-short-bent-up-but-rigid wire to get at it (I used welding rod, a sturdy wire clothes hanger would probably work). Thanks

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    I am replacing rear brake shoes, but forgot the spring arrangement. Three springs.

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You need 2 thin and long flat head screwdrivers. There is a star shaped wheel that when you turn it, either tightens or loosens the brake shoes. Spin it one direction and you will hear a clicking, meaning you are tightening. You will not be able to spin it the other direction (loosen) without lifting up/pushing back the metal bar that rests on the star shapped wheel. You will have to do this by feel, but it is not hard. Find the loosen direction, you will feel resistance until you use the other screw driver to push the metal bar out of the way. Then it will turn freely. Make sure your emergency brake is not engaged, because it will cause the brake shoes to lock on the drum.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • Brainyass Rabbit
    Brainyass Rabbit Nov 21, 2008

    From the access hole, you are pushing the metal bar away from the teeth of the star wheel.



    http://www.allpar.com/fix/brake-drums.ht...



    From this website, notice the star wheel centered on the very bottom of the drum brakes. The metal bar is directly below the star wheel and to the left a little.

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I have replaced the Master Cylinder (bleed before putting on car), bleed the brakes as well as pressure bleed, replaced buckets in the slave cylinder, replaced rear shoes, no air in line, however while the...


Your brakes are vacuum aided so when engine is off the pedal will be hard. When the engine runs the vacuum is active and the pedal becomes light. Your brakes are working but need adjustment so that the pedal does not go to the floor.
Locate the adjusting screws behind the rear wheel drums.
With one wheel jacked adjust the shoes till wheel wont turn.
Then loosen until wheel is just free of any friction from shoes.
Repeat for other side.

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1 Answer

What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

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1 Answer

Diagram for right rear brake assembly for a 1993 chrylser lebaron


it's a standard leading trailing bendix brake system, small shoe to the front, larger shoe to the rear. The spring are ease. THE springs that look the same go behind the shoes, the biggest spring goes at the top of the brake assembly, and the spring thats medium goes on the bottem. Don't forget the horse shoe clip to the e-brake cable. The adjustment peice goes near the top. Adjust it all the way and spin the drum while you use the mopar adjustment tool to set the e-brake adjust ment. you should get 1/2 to one full rotation before the drum drum stops spinning. don't forget to gravitey bleed your brake (open the rear bleed screws at the same time, then the front).

Oct 16, 2010 | Chrysler LeBaron Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I installed new rear shoes,drums,&wheel cylinders on both sides of my 2000 caravan, the passenger side bleed out fine but I can't get any oil flow out of the drivers side. I used a vacume pump and...


Make sure the bleeder is open,and not plugged with rust,or road debris.
After this,place a 3/16 inch diameter rubber vacummn line over the bleeder valve or fitting and place it in a container of brake fluid to keep it from drawing air.Make full strokes of the brake peddle,and pull it all the way back with your hand.Loosen the mastercylinder cover,or cap and keep refilling,before the cylinder goes empty as this will induce more air.After you have most of the air purged out close off the bleeder, and pump the brakes 3 or more times holding pressure and have a buddy loosen the bleeder if there is still some air ,repeat more pressure bleeding with buddy,intill the brakes feel solid.You may have to adjust the brake shoes to the drum diameter to get a better pedal heith,so the front brakes will have adequate pressure too.Tap on the baking plate while adjusting the shoes.Best way is to lock them up and then turn the star wheel adjusters back both the same with no drag.Chek the emergency brake adjustment if too tight back off some or this will or may cause rear shoes to drag a bit and wear prematurely .

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How to remove brake rotors on a 1996 ford explorer


How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper Rotor Removal In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose. Parking Brake You might want to check the parking brake while you are here. To remove:
  • Remove the rear disc brake rotor.
  • Remove the outboard return spring.
  • Remove the adjusting screw spring.
  • Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.
  • Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.
  • Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.
  • Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.
  • Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.
To install:
  • Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.
  • Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.
  • Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.
  • Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.
  • Install the outboard return spring.
  • Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.
  • Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
ADJUSTMENT
  • Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor
  • Remove the rear disc brake rotor.
  • Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.
  • Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size
  • Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.
  • Install the rear disc brake rotor.
Reassembly Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize. Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening. Refill the brake master cylinder

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1 Answer

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a Master rates about a 5 out of 10 with 10 being the hardest

you may find the hardest part is the actual bench bleeding of the master
and/or
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These are the instructions from my service manual, but I do not remove the fluid prior to service steps 2-6

  1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Disconnect electrical connector from filler cap.
  2. Remove fluid reservoir filler cap.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
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To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed brake system.

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1 Answer

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Remove wheel, brake drum, and brake shoes. The cylinder is the part the brake line goes into and it spreads the brake shoes apart when you brake.

Loosen the brake line but do not take off, unbolt the cylinder and then disconnect brake line. loosely connect the brake line to the new cylinder so you do not loose much brake fluid, bolt new cylinder in and then tighten the brake line.
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Reinstall drum and tire, top off brake fluid.

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2 Answers

Brake drums


the brake shoes are likely stuck in the grooves worn into the drum. You need to back off the brake shoe adjusting wheel to loosen the brake shoes.
Also, the face of the drum usually has a couple of threaded holes you can screw bolts into to help pull the drums toward you.

First, hit all the way around the brake drum with a big hammer to loosen the drum from the center hub.
Then, istall the screws to help pull the drum.

to back off the adjuster with a screwdriver:

  1. NOTE: If the brake drum will not come off, follow these steps.
  2. Loosen the brake shoe adjusting screw nut (2047).
  3. Using a screwdriver, move the brake shoe adjusting lever (2A176) off the brake adjuster screw (2041).
  4. NOTE: Move the adjustment tool handle downward to loosen the brake shoe adjusting screw nut.
    Use the Brake Adjustment Tool to loosen the brake shoe adjusting screw nut.
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please give a good rating if this helps.

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2 Answers

Brake pistons won't retrack to allow new brake pads to be install


It's possible the pistons "screw" back in, even though they don't look like they are threaded. Very much like X-1/9 calipers. You might also attach a small hose to the bleed valve, and squeeze the pistons with a large set of pliers.

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2 Answers

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There is an adjuster, just not a normal one(it's a VW!). It's a small, flat, wedged pin, about 1.5" - 2" long, sitting vertically behind the shoe opposite the parking brake lever, attached to the only vertical spring in the assembly. In addition, you could try getting a round file and removing some of the material from the inside edge of the drum.

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